Solved with details: 3rd generation 4Runner digital clock revived (tooth surgery)
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BrazilianT4R
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Congrats on the great write-up.
As for the pins, I haven't seen the circuit diagram myself, but I would think they are ground, 12v direct from battery (so the clock keeps ticking when combination switch is in OFF position), 12v from the combination switch ACC and ON position (to actually light up the clock) and lastly 12v from the headlights switch (so the clock knows when to dim).
On a second thought, ground and 12v statements above could be inverted, because some japanese cars (I've seen it a lot in Suzukis) have 12v conected straight and the ground being switched. Either way, it works the same and you get the idea for all the pins.
Best regards,
Gustavo.
Nelsonmd
New member
Better than ever?
BTW, I thought this was in here already, but it must be in a different thread... don't use plumbing flux or solder for electrical soldering. Get rosin core flux from radioshack or the like.
TheDurk
Elite Member
Good advice, Matt, but I think you meant to say 'rosin-core solder'. Flux is the goop all by itself, usually not used in electrical but more commonly in plumbing where it is applied directly to the pipe to assist the solder in flowing throughout the joint. Rosin core flux is kind of hard to do.
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BrianSD_42
New member
This looks like a great write up. Nice work!
:girl:
:girl:
mom
Banned
I'm confused.
While for any DIY, I take vastly more pictures than are actually posted, I'm not sure what pics you want since the ones chosen 'should' be enough for the reader to perform the stated tasks.
Thanks for this write up! My clock had been dimming erratically for a few months and thumping it like gauges in a WW2 fighter plane stopped working. I had my dash apart and was searching for a new clock when I found this. Your post saved me! Worked like a charm!
(Original owner: 1997 4Runner SR5 with sunroof/hitch pkg, 4-speed auto, 230K miles)
(Original owner: 1997 4Runner SR5 with sunroof/hitch pkg, 4-speed auto, 230K miles)
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SAC-CA-Runner
New member
Holy Moly!!! :wow: WOW!!! :bravo:
I bet now you realize why most write-ups don't have so many pictures though, huh?:
Great job! I'm glad to hear you learned something along the way, and that your clock is now working again. That's what this community is all about! Mine has been flawless since I worked on it back in late May.
One thing though - You should have sent me a PM when you started this project; I could have helped you!!! As of last week, I had spent all but 2 weeks since the beginning of June working out at NASA Ames... :bash: Oh well. (I actually did the write-up from my hotel in Sunnyvale).
Again, great job!!!
PS - Hey Ron, Down Boy!
Dang...too bad I brutally killed my insides of mine or else I'd ask you for some help with mine now that I'm in CO. But I know I'll be PM-ing some folks when it comes to do my timing belt!
ottawavalleyboy
New member
Hi my name is Steve & I'm a clockoholic...I had the one in my Tacoma out a few years ago with no solution,hopefully I didn't do too much damage to the plug's female contacts trying to "fix" them,hope it's not too cold out tomorrow....that clock really annoyed me!:gun4:
ottawavalleyboy
New member
Right on! :banana::banana::banana:
My attempt at repair a few years ago meant my harness was Fubar, not to worry I just pulled the 4 pins then soldered 20 gauge wire pigtails to the circuit board & spliced them to the proper wires,after pulling them through the hole in the clock casing in back.:banana::banana::banana:
My attempt at repair a few years ago meant my harness was Fubar, not to worry I just pulled the 4 pins then soldered 20 gauge wire pigtails to the circuit board & spliced them to the proper wires,after pulling them through the hole in the clock casing in back.:banana::banana::banana:
TheOtherGuy
New member
I just did this whole DIY including soldering the pins and when I plugged my clock back in I found that it still did not work. I jiggled the connector a bit and found that it would just jiggling it would bring it back to life temporarily. From this I concluded that my connections had become oxidized/dirty and they just needed to be cleaned. So I srayed some deoxidizer and the plug and the pins and jiggled it some more and unplugged and replugged it a few times to "scrub" the pins clean. This worked.
To make a long story short Before disassibling your clock just spray deoxidizer on the plug and pins and "scrub" them clean by unplugging and replugging the connection a few times this should fix it in many cases. The springs were not the problem on my clock.
The deoxidzer can be found here: Hosa Caig DeoxIT D5, Deoxidizer Aerosol Spray, 5 oz D5S6
I hope this can save you some time and effort.
To make a long story short Before disassibling your clock just spray deoxidizer on the plug and pins and "scrub" them clean by unplugging and replugging the connection a few times this should fix it in many cases. The springs were not the problem on my clock.
The deoxidzer can be found here: Hosa Caig DeoxIT D5, Deoxidizer Aerosol Spray, 5 oz D5S6
I hope this can save you some time and effort.
afg10000
New member
F that f'ing clock. My tally is clock- 4, me -0. Nice write up, but can't help me. I've had that thing out of there multiple times. I'll tell ya I can get that center console out in record time! Did all of the above but my prob was in the wiring harness. Basically you had to apply a bit of pressure to the harness onto the back of clock assembly to keep it working. Then cut the harness, put those metal tongue clips on and tried to directly slide them over the 4 pins. Didn't work well - shorted out, blew the fuse and my brain. cut the wires, taped 'em off and admitted defeat to a worthy adversary.
About that clock repair DIY...
Yes I realize how old this thread is but I still want to say thanks and well done for your excellent clock repair DIY. Having the experience necessary, I soldered in the connector pins in as directed but even after doing so, the clock still did not work at all. Then I remembered that someone had previously mentioned the chip resistors on the back of the circuit board and the possibility of their connections being cracked. Bingo! there were several of them that had cracked solder joints so after I re-soldered them as well, I also for good measure touched up the row of solder joints on the one side of the display and after reassembling the clock I tested it and it is now fully functional. It is amazing what the internet (and this forum) has to offer.
Yes I realize how old this thread is but I still want to say thanks and well done for your excellent clock repair DIY. Having the experience necessary, I soldered in the connector pins in as directed but even after doing so, the clock still did not work at all. Then I remembered that someone had previously mentioned the chip resistors on the back of the circuit board and the possibility of their connections being cracked. Bingo! there were several of them that had cracked solder joints so after I re-soldered them as well, I also for good measure touched up the row of solder joints on the one side of the display and after reassembling the clock I tested it and it is now fully functional. It is amazing what the internet (and this forum) has to offer.
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Hebrews 6:20
New member
did anybody have a burnt spot like this? I don't wanna try to solder this thing if I'll just be wasting my time with some burnt out internals.
<a href="http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/andyfirecharger/media/clock_zps2kxtitr5.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u369/andyfirecharger/clock_zps2kxtitr5.png" border="0" alt=" photo clock_zps2kxtitr5.png"/></a>
<a href="http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/andyfirecharger/media/clock_zps2kxtitr5.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u369/andyfirecharger/clock_zps2kxtitr5.png" border="0" alt=" photo clock_zps2kxtitr5.png"/></a>
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