Something I experienced yesterday

N

nissanh

Senior Member
For the first time in the history of my 4runner the engine (5vzfe) stalled while I was at a red light. Then I cranked the engine and it start running again like nothing happened. I drove all the way home 600 miles without a problem. After a day it still runs fine.

What can that be?
 
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nissanh said:
For the first time in the history of my 4runner the engine (5vzfe) stalled while I was at a red light. Then I cranked the engine and it start running again like nothing happened. I drove all the way home 600 miles without a problem. After a day it still runs fine.

What can that be?
Click to expand...

You rockin' a 5spd? If so slowly in slowly out is your problem lol
 
Hmmm... thats no good... Could we get more details on what it did right before it stalled?
 
Got a Check engine light on going?
Air filter clean?
Raining?
Fuel filter clean?
Running good gas?
Accelerate to catch the light and then have to slow way down to stop at the red?
Bump the tyranny out of gear into neutral?
 
Troybylt said:
Got a Check engine light on going?
Air filter clean?
Raining?
Fuel filter clean?
Running good gas?
Accelerate to catch the light and then have to slow way down to stop at the red?
Bump the tyranny out of gear into neutral?
Click to expand...

It happened out of the blue.
I was yielding for the main road traffic and it was clear for me to proceed. I then give gas and nothing happened. The shifter was in "D" and all the dash lights are on (same as ignition is on). I then quickly shifted to "N" and turn the key again. It started right out. No problems after that.

Fuel filter about 15000 miles (genuine)
New air filter
New twin ground spark plugs
New wires (NGK)
I always use Chevron/Shell/Texaco
Used a gum out injector cleaner about 400 miles ago (before the incident)
IAC valve (never cleaned, and would like to know how to do it). Alternatively I got a low mile IAC valve from a wracked 4runner. I'll probably use it.
Truck is hitting almost 200K miles.

Thanks
 
This happened to me last year in October on the way to the Queen Mary. The only difference is I cut the hole for my deckplate mod and added the new K&N air filter. I have read that the oils inside the new filter actucally mess with your sensor(i forget the name). I never changed anything and it hasnt happened since that day.
 
my 4runner stalled twice before the fuel pump went RIP. Not saying that is it, but it's possible if it is almost 200k miles old.
 
I think I forgot to mention the most important thing: I had the gas reserve light/sign ON.

The idle is perfect (around 550 rpm) when the engine is hot.

Hope it is not the fuel pump.

I do carry bunch of stuff inside the truck (extra coil packs, fuel pump, AC idler, alternator brushes and rectifiers, starter contacts, spark plug or two, all the engine sensors, ECU, radiator hoses, drive belts, brake master cylinder, brake hoses, relays, fuses) and good set of tools. I should include an IAC valve to the stand-by list.

If I see any 3rd gen stranded on a road with a T4R sticker, you are in luck!
 
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Most fuel pumps keep cool by being submerged in the fuel. Running the tank empty or low reduces the life expectancy as the pump can get hot.
 
It very well could be your fuel pump. Until last December my 4R's fuel sending unit was bad and I filled up every 280 miles which I now realize is very low on my fuel gauge (mostly city driving). So I definitely sent mine to an early grave running it low. Now I generally fill up no later then when 1/4 tank remains if possible.
 
BlazeRunner said:
Most fuel pumps keep cool by being submerged in the fuel. Running the tank empty or low reduces the life expectancy as the pump can get hot.
Click to expand...

I thought about this as well but did't list it as if I recall correctly from reading some elses fuel pump write up our pumps cool by moving the fuel as apposed to sitting in it because we have a constant flowing return line. This keeps it from building up too much pressure like in a "one way system" that must stay submerged to cool.

Frankly I don't know much about our fuel systems personally however. Least not yet. Would be happy to be stood corrected.
 
Troybylt said:
I thought about this as well but did't list it as if I recall correctly from reading some elses fuel pump write up our pumps cool by moving the fuel as apposed to sitting in it because we have a constant flowing return line. This keeps it from building up too much pressure like in a "one way system" that must stay submerged to cool.

Frankly I don't know much about our fuel systems personally however. Least not yet. Would be happy to be stood corrected.
Click to expand...

I'm not too familiar with the fuel system either, that's why I said most.
 
Got a ton of information! Thanks to all of you.
Next time, I'll refill the tank every 150-180 miles (about 3/4 empty)
Also get the IAC cleaned or replaced.
I am actually thinking to install another control valve to the heater core output line. I did this to my car and I see a significant improvement in the AC. With the throttle body removed, I can easily access the heater core lines.
I got a project ahead.
Thanks!
 
I don't want to hijack your thread but I do want ask a question related to your original symptom. I've noticed since we have all switched to ethanol gas that on really hot days my truck will stall out at idle too. Mostly happens on cold start or before the engine reaches NOT.

Details: 1997 4Runner, Auto, S/C'ed, always run premium.

Any ideas gentlemen?
 
geohil said:
I don't want to hijack your thread but I do want ask a question related to your original symptom. I've noticed since we have all switched to ethanol gas that on really hot days my truck will stall out at idle too. Mostly happens on cold start or before the engine reaches NOT.

Details: 1997 4Runner, Auto, S/C'ed, always run premium.

Any ideas gentlemen?
Click to expand...

can't say I've had that problem. I'm also non supercharged though. :sleepy:
 
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