sound deadening advice

I've seen a few threads here where people installed insulation type fabric to dampen out road noise. I haven't seen much on the rubberized/aluminum/butyl stuff OEMs use, say on the floor framing under the carpeting.

I am looking to replace some of this stuff (admittedly on my accord not my 4runner) that has peeled up from excessive water damage (from the accident that led me to purchase my 4runner :thumb:)

you peoples are a wealth of knowledge, was looking to a little insight into types or experience. I've spent about an hour on the googles; many options from aluminum tapes to pads to paint on coatings. Would like to stay away from fabrics because of the moisture. thanks all.

looking at:
Noico 80 Mil
more official looking sheets
liquid coating type
mat type
 
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Basically, from my research (but not my own experience) you need at least three layers of materials for optimal noise reduction.

First, a base layer of butyl mat which only deadens the metal panels themselves, keeps them from vibrating and creating certain undesirable frequencies. You only really need like 20% coverage on the center portions of your panels.

Second, a layer of closed cell foam which decouples the third layer from the vibrating metal panels. This foam isn't suppose to block noise, only to seperate the two layers.

Third, mass loaded vinyl (MLV). Basically like thick rubber. The main sound barrier and heaviest of the 3. The largest uninterrupted layer you can lay down will lead to the best results.

These are links to very helpful threads, regarding 4Runners mainly, although they should help on your accord too. (The Toyota Highlander one is especially informative for obtaining cheap materials.)

Sound Deadener Showdown Product Page Informative
4mudder's Thread
HokieRunner's Thread
The Josh's Build Pg.22
Highlander Sound Deadening

Note: I haven't done any sound deadening as of yet, but am planning on it very soon. Thank you to all who's threads I've borrowed!
 
Yep, what that guy said. It makes an amazing difference. I'll also add that if you've got an area where MLV is hard to install, some thick ~1.5" egg crate foam does wonders for blocking out all but the lowest frequencies. It knocks down at least 90-95% of the typical road noise frequencies.

I like Raammat, but I don't know if they're still around
 
Basically, from my research (but not my own experience) you need at least three layers of materials for optimal noise reduction.

First, a base layer of butyl mat which only deadens the metal panels themselves, keeps them from vibrating and creating certain undesirable frequencies. You only really need like 20% coverage on the center portions of your panels.

Second, a layer of closed cell foam which decouples the third layer from the vibrating metal panels. This foam isn't suppose to block noise, only to seperate the two layers.

Third, mass loaded vinyl (MLV). Basically like thick rubber. The main sound barrier and heaviest of the 3. The largest uninterrupted layer you can lay down will lead to the best results.

These are links to very helpful threads, regarding 4Runners mainly, although they should help on your accord too. (The Toyota Highlander one is especially informative for obtaining cheap materials.)

Sound Deadener Showdown Product Page Informative
4mudder's Thread
HokieRunner's Thread
The Josh's Build Pg.22
Highlander Sound Deadening

Note: I haven't done any sound deadening as of yet, but am planning on it very soon. Thank you to all who's threads I've borrowed!

:clap2: :clap2: :clap2: thanks a ton. i almost felt bad asking about this but i knew i was in a google loop. this gives me much more to look into and research on the issue.

and more motivation to deaden out the 4runner too :whistle:


turns out hokierunner's project was the specific one i was looking for again tonight. i remember reading about the side view mirror noise still being present. weird search couldn't find it again for me using 'sound deadening'.
 
Basically, from my research (but not my own experience) you need at least three layers of materials for optimal noise reduction.

First, a base layer of butyl mat which only deadens the metal panels themselves, keeps them from vibrating and creating certain undesirable frequencies. You only really need like 20% coverage on the center portions of your panels.

Second, a layer of closed cell foam which decouples the third layer from the vibrating metal panels. This foam isn't suppose to block noise, only to seperate the two layers.

Third, mass loaded vinyl (MLV). Basically like thick rubber. The main sound barrier and heaviest of the 3. The largest uninterrupted layer you can lay down will lead to the best results.

These are links to very helpful threads, regarding 4Runners mainly, although they should help on your accord too. (The Toyota Highlander one is especially informative for obtaining cheap materials.)

Sound Deadener Showdown Product Page Informative
4mudder's Thread
HokieRunner's Thread
The Josh's Build Pg.22
Highlander Sound Deadening

Note: I haven't done any sound deadening as of yet, but am planning on it very soon. Thank you to all who's threads I've borrowed!

This is on my list. I have already contacted the guy who runs sounddeadenershowdown.com and received some number$ on how much I would need and the cost too. This basic technique is what commercial/enterprise class conference rooms often use to keep privacy in the room. Biggest advice I can tell you is that there is a direct reflection in the time spent actually putting sound reduction material to the level of noise reduction gained.
 
well ive been using dynamat extreme in my truck, very good stuff, just make sure the area is cleaned off first for the best bond, i didnt do the foam or rubber mat, i didnt feel the need to quiet down my truck that much. but the dynamat did quiet the noise made my door close like a mercedes. another brand to use is second skin damplifier pro, its another alternative to dynamat extreme. i think you get a lil more for the price. i used this Damplifier Pro? 20 sq. feet - Trunk Pack 12 Sheets - Second Skin Audio
and it covered the rear quarter panels on both sides and the rear floor under the seat.
the dynamat extreme mega pack covered the doors and tailgate and also the rear cargo floor. i really wished i did my roof, so i dont hear the rain.
 
Sound Deadener Project - 3rd Gen

I've seen a few threads here where people installed insulation type fabric to dampen out road noise. I haven't seen much on the rubberized/aluminum/butyl stuff OEMs use, say on the floor framing under the carpeting.

I'm a 3rd Gen guy and have done a very successful yet pretty extensive sound deadening project on my T4R. I've been extremely pleased with the following combination:

  • Spray Dead
  • Fat Mat - Rattle Trap Extreme
  • Closed Cell Foam - 2-lb density cross-linked PE (XPE)

I've done actual dB tests with my Sound Meter Calibrated. Huge difference.

Here's a link:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/195114-sound-deadener-project-spray-dead-fat-mat.html
 
I've done Rattle Trap on all my vehicles, following the 20% rule. I didn't do the second or third layer so it's not the perfect project. But, the results are very impressive nevertheless.

As stated already, it's the prep work that makes or breaks any project. One thing I didn't do is the ceiling on any of the vehicles so I'm not done by a long shot.

I purchased two giant rolls from Ebay with free shipping and that covered four vehicles at a 20% coverage. The two rolls are HEAVY so free S&H is a must!!!!
 
Always wanted to do this to my rig, but never found the time (or money). Great info here. BUT, just throwing it out there............ you guys do realize that adding all this sound deadening adds lots of weight to your rigs, right?
 
Value of Sound Deadening v. Weight

Always wanted to do this to my rig, but never found the time (or money). Great info here. BUT, just throwing it out there............ you guys do realize that adding all this sound deadening adds lots of weight to your rigs, right?

Point taken but, 62 lbs evenly dispersed throughout the entire vehicle for sound deadening (spray dead AND 100' of Fat Mat - if it's all used) is minimal not a "LOT" for the return.

Upon completion I was averaging low to mid 70's in the dB range. T4R's are notorious for higher dB's and (EDIT: rattling/annoying noises) on the highway without a supercharger, headers or aftermarket exhaust.

Put in Perspective
80dB is 2x's more than 70
90dB is 4x's more than 70

60 is half as loud as 70 - One could only wish in a T4R!!

90-95dB - Level at which sustained exposure may result in hearing loss.

For an overland vehicle it doesn't compare to the weight of all the armor - bumper, skids, sliders which is only used "just in case". Then add bigger tires, a compressor, winch, sleep platform or RTT, arb fridge, rack, lights, second battery, inverter etc.

Plus my wife likes it!:dance:
 
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Always wanted to do this to my rig, but never found the time (or money). Great info here. BUT, just throwing it out there............ you guys do realize that adding all this sound deadening adds lots of weight to your rigs, right?

Between the skids, lift, big tires, cargo platform, light bar, sliders and other crap, many of us are carrying about 500 lbs of extra weight already. 62 lbs for sound deadening is minimal.

You'd be surprised at how little the mpg is truly affected by the extra weight.
 
Point taken but, 62 lbs evenly dispersed throughout the entire vehicle for sound deadening (spray dead AND 100' of Fat Mat - if it's all used) is minimal not a "LOT" for the return.

Plus my wife likes it!:dance:

Only 62lbs? Wow. Years ago when I wanted to sound deaden my 07 Civic (car is freaking loud on the highway, I remember measuring 90 dB), I remember people saying it would be something like 200-300 lbs. This was a concensus b/c nobody actually weighed their cars before/afterwards.

Between the skids, lift, big tires, cargo platform, light bar, sliders and other crap, many of us are carrying about 500 lbs of extra weight already. 62 lbs for sound deadening is minimal.

You'd be surprised at how little the mpg is truly affected by the extra weight.

I agree. My truck doesn't have any "off road" armor like many of you guys have and I honestly can give a rats ass about MPG.

SOO, how much is a person looking at to sound deaden their 4Runner?
 
Only 62lbs? Wow. Years ago when I wanted to sound deaden my 07 Civic (car is freaking loud on the highway, I remember measuring 90 dB), I remember people saying it would be something like 200-300 lbs. This was a concensus b/c nobody actually weighed their cars before/afterwards.



I agree. My truck doesn't have any "off road" armor like many of you guys have and I honestly can give a rats ass about MPG.

SOO, how much is a person looking at to sound deaden their 4Runner?
Yea we drive 4Runners I told myself when I bought the vehicle I never worry about miles to the gallon. If y'all want I can convert the quote to PDF and post
 
I've run around with 160 lbs of water softener salt in the back hatch area to help improve the ride at times. I noticed zero difference on my daily commute. Stays the same within 0.1 mpg over a 1 month period to average a few tanks (about 22.0-22.4 mpg on the OBC now, about 19.5-20 mpg hand calculated - was 24.0-24.6 mpg on the OBC when I first purchased her... :().
 
Sound Deadener Showdown says how much weight their recommended install will add: 124lbs
Toyota 4Runner 4 door SUV 2003-2009 | Sound Deadener Showdown
It's $735.58 before shipping for those materials.

If you're near Manchester, MD, you can have it installed at their recommended installer. That will cost $1300-$1400 for 17-19 hours of labor.

Holy crap. Yeah, I'll do it myself if at all. I'd love to do it with my Civic, I never thought my 4Runner was loud.
 
SOO, how much is a person looking at to sound deaden their 4Runner?

I just bought today
  • 150sqft of fatmat rattletrap (Their thicker stuff) for $267.
  • 200sqft of 1/8" Volara foam from foam n' more and upholstery for $90.
  • 200sqft of MLV (1lb/sqft) from trademark soundproofing for $380
This is to do my 4th gen 4Runner and my brother's FJ. So roughly $370 for each vehicle for full coverage. It really isn't ridiculous if you know where to buy from. The guy with the highlander used some of these products on my previously posted link on the first page.
 
great work rock_rat! quite the post.

i hope you dont mind, i stole a pic to point out what i'm replacing. this guy was all cracked up (probably from getting wet and freezing repeatedly).

i'll report back when i get the *ahem* accord finished.

thanks again for everyones input. love this place :grouphug:
 
Interested

I would love to see some pictures of the process. Im going for a lift kit in the next few weeks :dancin: but this sounds like it would be a great project sometime in the future.
 

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