Skidmarcx
New member
So, I was ready to take my daily driver to the next level in comfort and sound quality and decided that making it more quiet on the inside had to be done... it was a long and frustrating process, but the outcome is something words can't describe. I chose to use Second Skin since I've read nothing but good things about it... and after using the product I'd say it's well worth the money.
Materials used
- 45^2 ft Dampifier Pro B-Stock (Constraint Layer Damper)
- 90^2 ft Overkill (1/8" Closed Cell Foam)
- 45^2 ft Luxury Liner (Mass Loaded Vinyl)
- 20^2 ft 3M Thinsulate (Acoustic Barrier)
- 1 roll Foil Insulation Tape
- Speaker Tweeker Kit
- 2 cans High Temp Adhesive
- 2 cans 3M Vinyl Adhesive
- misc stuff (wooden roller, knife, scissors)
Total Labor ~ 20 hours
Since there are other threads on the subject I skipped the tear down process to keep pictures to minimum. I started with the doors first since they were the easiest to tear down... I only show one door since the process is the same for each... and due to the limit on pictures I showed the important ones
The door skins themselves weren't terribly difficult to take care of, but what didn't work in my favor was the Limited flares and side moldings... removing them would be a nightmare and I wasn't about to go down that road. I simply needed to keep the metal from resonating and then add a sound barrier, so I didn't hear the plastic moldings rattle on the inside of the vehicle... doesn't really matter to me what the outside sounds like. Here is the CLD added... and contrary to what most people believe you don't need 100% coverage as CLD is not a sound barrier it's designed to stop vibration with as little as 25% coverage. You can basically knock on the panels with your knuckles and when you hear a dead thud you know you're good to go
A picture of the speaker tweeker designed to break up the rear sound waves
Next step is the CCF and MLV layer and this is where more IS better... 100% coverage is ideal since this is a sound barrier. This can be a tricky step because you want to make sure the door is still serviceable (window, regulator, motor, speaker). Initially I tried to squeeze in a entire layer of MLV, but there is so little room between the door panel and inner skin that it simply wasn't going to happen. I then decided that at minimum I needed to cover the voids and do a piece over the window motor to reduce noise. The MLV needs to be decoupled in order for maximum effectiveness, so I used a layer of CCF on both sides and then sealed the pieces with Foil Tape.
Afterwards it was easy to trim a piece of CCF to cover the entire door panel and I used spray adhesive to attach it at the top, so I could easily flip the piece up for service
Next area I attacked was the rear of the vehicle... the beauty of doing the horizontal surfaces is that you don't need to use adhesive you just let the carpet keep it in place
Rear quarter panel area... I would've loved to cover that void in the rear, but there is a cabin vent that went inside
I only did an MLV barrier over the wheel wells since again space was an issue
Here is the tailgate... I didn't snap pictures of the outer door skin since there wasn't much to see with the window regulator and motor in the way. I didn't do an MLV layer since there isn't much noise that comes through at this point and also to keep weight down... I don't need to stress these 16 year shocks anymore than I need to
Here is the floor area... this is where I used the bulk of the MLV and tape to seal from heat... I had to keep the rear heater into consideration, so the passenger side took a bit longer to do. Ideally you want to remove the factory CLD, but this stuff was literally stuck on there and I didn't want to use my air hammer because that would've gotten ugly LOL
The last area was the roof... this is an area that could easily be overdone. There really isn't a need for a noise barrier since there is nothing to block. This is where I used a CLD treatment and the 3M Thinsulate to cut down on the heat and also wind noise from the roof rack. I didn't get pictures under construction because I was frustrated during this step and completely forget, so here is a couple shots where you can see the 3M material in between the headliner. I trimmed a huge piece for 100% coverage
Hope this helps anyone wanting to do this project
Materials used
- 45^2 ft Dampifier Pro B-Stock (Constraint Layer Damper)
- 90^2 ft Overkill (1/8" Closed Cell Foam)
- 45^2 ft Luxury Liner (Mass Loaded Vinyl)
- 20^2 ft 3M Thinsulate (Acoustic Barrier)
- 1 roll Foil Insulation Tape
- Speaker Tweeker Kit
- 2 cans High Temp Adhesive
- 2 cans 3M Vinyl Adhesive
- misc stuff (wooden roller, knife, scissors)
Total Labor ~ 20 hours
Since there are other threads on the subject I skipped the tear down process to keep pictures to minimum. I started with the doors first since they were the easiest to tear down... I only show one door since the process is the same for each... and due to the limit on pictures I showed the important ones
The door skins themselves weren't terribly difficult to take care of, but what didn't work in my favor was the Limited flares and side moldings... removing them would be a nightmare and I wasn't about to go down that road. I simply needed to keep the metal from resonating and then add a sound barrier, so I didn't hear the plastic moldings rattle on the inside of the vehicle... doesn't really matter to me what the outside sounds like. Here is the CLD added... and contrary to what most people believe you don't need 100% coverage as CLD is not a sound barrier it's designed to stop vibration with as little as 25% coverage. You can basically knock on the panels with your knuckles and when you hear a dead thud you know you're good to go
A picture of the speaker tweeker designed to break up the rear sound waves
Next step is the CCF and MLV layer and this is where more IS better... 100% coverage is ideal since this is a sound barrier. This can be a tricky step because you want to make sure the door is still serviceable (window, regulator, motor, speaker). Initially I tried to squeeze in a entire layer of MLV, but there is so little room between the door panel and inner skin that it simply wasn't going to happen. I then decided that at minimum I needed to cover the voids and do a piece over the window motor to reduce noise. The MLV needs to be decoupled in order for maximum effectiveness, so I used a layer of CCF on both sides and then sealed the pieces with Foil Tape.
Afterwards it was easy to trim a piece of CCF to cover the entire door panel and I used spray adhesive to attach it at the top, so I could easily flip the piece up for service
Next area I attacked was the rear of the vehicle... the beauty of doing the horizontal surfaces is that you don't need to use adhesive you just let the carpet keep it in place
Rear quarter panel area... I would've loved to cover that void in the rear, but there is a cabin vent that went inside
I only did an MLV barrier over the wheel wells since again space was an issue
Here is the tailgate... I didn't snap pictures of the outer door skin since there wasn't much to see with the window regulator and motor in the way. I didn't do an MLV layer since there isn't much noise that comes through at this point and also to keep weight down... I don't need to stress these 16 year shocks anymore than I need to
Here is the floor area... this is where I used the bulk of the MLV and tape to seal from heat... I had to keep the rear heater into consideration, so the passenger side took a bit longer to do. Ideally you want to remove the factory CLD, but this stuff was literally stuck on there and I didn't want to use my air hammer because that would've gotten ugly LOL
The last area was the roof... this is an area that could easily be overdone. There really isn't a need for a noise barrier since there is nothing to block. This is where I used a CLD treatment and the 3M Thinsulate to cut down on the heat and also wind noise from the roof rack. I didn't get pictures under construction because I was frustrated during this step and completely forget, so here is a couple shots where you can see the 3M material in between the headliner. I trimmed a huge piece for 100% coverage
Hope this helps anyone wanting to do this project
