Sound upgrade: Bypass tweeters for 6x9?

[gloch]

I had one of my tweeters in the upper front door blow, so I thought I would simply install some nice 6x9s. It appears that the signal goes through the tweeter and then to the lower door panel speaker. Has anyone figured out the wiring to bypass the tweeters?

 

[Tironeous]

If I remember correctly from upgrading my speakers to components, the signal goes to the tweeters first. Then you’ll see a set of wires coming out of tweeter and back down the door to the woofer.

Try connecting from where the source enters the tweeter to the new 6x9s. You can use an adapter like this if necessary.

Metra 72-8104 Speaker Wiring Harnesses For select 1992-up Toyota-built vehicles — adapt new speakers to the factory wiring plugs at Crutchfield

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[JH225]

Unless you already have some coaxial 6x9 speakers, I highly recommend spending a little extra and getting a component set of speakers (6.5” with adapter, or 6x9, whatever suits your fancy).

Having the tweeter up high makes more of a difference than you may think!


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[riverwolf]

Probably worth mentioning also that the factory "tweeter" is really a 2"ish full range driver that's high passed around 200Hz (my estimate by ear). It's not just playing high frequencies.

If you look at a frequency chart of musical instruments, you'll see that very few have fundamental frequencies above the 3,000 Hz that is the typical crossover frequency used by component systems. IOW, with true tweeters in the upper door locations, your ankles will be enjoying the majority of your musical content. Just some food for thought.

 

[Tironeous]

I second getting components. Even an entry level set will sound better than the 15ish year old speakers in there


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[gaber6]

Crutchfield has good deals and come with free adapters and all the wires are there too. I ordered 6.5" replacements all around recently and the previous owner had already upgraded the speakers, but the wires were just all broken or bad connections. Rears were buggered from the adapters shaking loose so I replaced those..

Keep the 6.9 up front. I actually disconnected my 8" sub behind my seat after getting everything shored up again, as it'll be just fine if you aren't an audiophile.

 

[Ricky Bobby 123]

This is what I done did. Now we really have did it.

 

[Buggynut]

Im replacing my sub, and was looking at the rest of the speakers. They arent very impressive for a JBL system.

 

[southern_runner]

I'm working on this now; I have a 2003 SR5 with original factory system minus the head unit which had already been replaced. I'm going with Kenwood 6.5"s in all four doors, and Kicker tweeters because Crutchfield is damn near out of everything else.

 

[2021nightshade4x4]

If going component, there should 100% be a separate crossover to split the frequencies, then wires to speakers. By themselves, speakers definitely do not operate in a “take what frequencies it needs and sends the rest on”.

Do these speakers have built in crossovers? Component speakers should not…


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[riverwolf]

If going component, there should 100% be a separate crossover to split the frequencies, then wires to speakers. By themselves, speakers definitely do not operate in a “take what frequencies it needs and sends the rest on”.

Do these speakers have built in crossovers? Component speakers should not…


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The JBL front door setup isn't like a traditional aftermarket component set. Both the 6"x9" and the 65mm drivers receive full range signals from the amp. However, the 65mm driver wiring does contain a bass blocking cap (estimated around 200Hz, to my ear). Since the guys at JBL actually know a thing or two about speaker design, although I've never measured it, I would assume that the 6"x9" was designed with a natural high frequency roll-off that complements the 65mm driver to avoid major peaking or comb filtering.

 

[03v8raleigh]

This is what I done did. Now we really have did it.

Please help! I am trying to bypass my tweeters, and this doesn't make sense. Wouldn't you need to jump the 1st + 3rd pins, and 2nd + 4th pins? That way it is essentially red to red and back to black on the next plug to the tweeter, effectively cutting the tweeter out of the circuit and directing it down to the 6x9?

I have a new 6x9 coaxial installed, since I thought I'd just leave the tweeter, and once installed I realized the tweeter sounds like garbage and want to just remove it and have only the coaxial 6x9s going (in retrospect I should have gotten components, and mounted the new tweeter in the old tweeter spot.. but regardless I need to figure out this wiring if I'm going to do that in the future anyways). Please tell me which wires to connect together to get all power to the 6x9 lol finding conflicting info everywhere

 

[Ph03n1x24]

I recently upgraded the sound system in my 2005 4runner. I used a pair of crossovers along with metra adapters and mounting adapter plates (I had to drill to the diameter of the tweeters with a hole saw). With the metra's I did no splicing into the factory harness. (If you disconnect the tweeter the front lower door woofer will NOT function)

Kicker 46CST204 CS Series 3/4" dome tweeters
w/ crossover
Kicker 47KSC69304 KS Series 6"x9" 3-way car speakers
w/ crossover
Metra 72-8104 Speaker Wiring Harnesses
Metra 82-4201 Tweeter Mounting Brackets
Metra 82-8148 Speaker Mounting Brackets
Install Bay SPHKC Speaker Installation Kit

As far as bypassing... a 4-pin adapter works (jumpered +/-) directing signal down to the 6 x 9's - but allowing you to reverse it back to stock.

You could probably get better advice but here's what I have done with the help of Crutchfield.

 

[TXST8SR5]

Crutchfield makes it too easy. I have done many stereos, but I still appreciate how they do things.
I ordered a JL component set for the front and JL coaxial for the rear doors for my son's 2006. Looking forward to working on it with him.