Spare Tire Cable Frozen

Anyone know which chain type works on our 4th gen. I hate to replace with another cable model


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Anyone know which chain type works on our 4th gen. I hate to replace with another cable model


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It is my understanding that Toyota no longer sells the cable version of the spare tire lift, they are all the chain type.
 
I used 3/8 extensions about 8.5 inches of them and they are solid and fit it perfect... I then put a big breaker bar on it and tightened it slightly and that broke it loose then I could loosten it.. but it took a bunch of PB blaster spraying.

Thanks for posting this and the other advice on the page. I was bummed that my spare tire carrier was stuck so I was thinking of how to store the spare in some other way at great expensive and inconvenience. I got it working great using the 3/8" socket and some PB Blaster + WD40 Professional Lithium. I lubed the metal valve stem cover with brake grease too. Thanks guys!
 
I just had to deal with this same issue. The TPMS sensor in the spare tire went belly up and I couldn't get the spare down, the cable was completely seized. It had been 7 years since it had been lowered.
I ordered the new chain type spare tire carrier and had a mechanic friend cut the old unit out with an acetylene torch LOL
I blasted the new chain with superlube and will probably do it regularly.

I ordered the parts from toyotapartsdeal.com

Spare Tire Carrier
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~carrier~assy~spare~wheel~51900-35380.html
Diagram shows the old cable type, but the updated replacement part number for the chain type is noted there. The cable type is discontinued

Guide
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~guide~spare~whell~carrier~handle~51923-35020.html
You can probably re-use it but mine was completely rusted out and parts of it had broken off.

Bolts (you need 6 total)
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~bolt~for~transaxle~engine~setting~91641-h0820.html
 
Another stuck spare here. Drenched it with liquid wrench and will dry 3/8" extension as the cheap metal tool is rousing off. Not happy about $150-200 replacement part but love this trick enough to get it done.
 
I tried a 3/8 extension and it was just spinning. So I pulled out the tin snips and was able to drop the spare cutting the cable through the wheel spoke openings. Thank goodness for wide openings.
 

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Now I need to get those two screws on the white cable reel out attached to the cross frame. I think they are self tapping bolts with what feels like a hex washer head. It's at such a tight angle I can't even figure out what size will slip on there to get a ratchet on it. Tried everything from 10-14mm. That chalice shaped piece is rusted out pretty good so I may just pry that off for better access.

Glad to get the spare off. It's the same 6 spoke design though its black or maybe just really really dirty. ��
 
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Now I need to get those two screws on the white cable reel out attached to the cross frame. I think they are self tapping bolts with what feels like a hex washer head. It's at such a tight angle I can't even figure out what size will slip on there to get a ratchet on it. Tried everything from 10-14mm. That chalice shaped piece is rusted out pretty good so I may just pry that off for better access.

Glad to get the spare off. It's the same 6 spoke design though its black or maybe just really really dirty. ��

FYI, there are 4 more of those bolts/screws hidden under the winch pulley that don't show in your pic. A total of 6 bolts to remove, and they are ALL a PITA. I found the easiest way to remove them is to cut them. I used an air chisel between the winch flange and the cross member, and replaced them with standard bolts and nuts. Good luck.
 
Great. I thought that was a bit of a weak attachment for a heavy load. Are they threaded into that winch?

Yes, all 6 bolts pass through the cross member, from above, and thread into the winch base plate. This is why I used nuts and bolts when I replaced my winch, much easier to remove the next time, if needed.
 

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