TonyB66
New member
Sorry, I don't frequent much here lately. I can say that I have almost exactly that much lift in the front. I also have 17s, the same tire size...
SPC UCA Alignment Sheets
- Thread starter psraff
- Start date
Sorry, I don't frequent much here lately. I can say that I have almost exactly that much lift in the front. I also have 17s, the same tire size...
Hi All,
My lift kit is about to come in this weekend and I’m going to be getting 285/70R17 KO2s. Does anyone know of a good shop in the Bay Area area closer to Solano county?
Thank you.
schambers18
New member
Setting F sweet spot
PIC IS WITH "F" ALIGNMENT
After reading all 14 pages, I first of all set my LCA cams as recommended, pushing the wheel as far forward as possible. THEN:
1. Sent it to G on the star plate for the most possible firewall clearance *running 315's*
2. Maxed SPC camber adj all the way in (toward motor for negative as possible)
3. Torqued that nut to 150lbs and and off to the alignment shop.
Castor was acceptable at 2.3 Passenger and 2.0 Driver, toe was perfect, but my wheels still sat like this: \ / I could not achieve the camber I needed.
After chatting with Tom in tech at SPC (who is amazing and drives a 3rd gen), he crunched some numbers for me. backing off to "F" would give me a full 1* neg camber back on EACH wheel and would only cost me 1/10 of an inch of clearance in the back. Not to mention would get Castor numbers up as well.
I did that, took it back in to get the toe re-adjusted, and my numbers are bad ass.
PIC IS WITH "F" ALIGNMENT
After reading all 14 pages, I first of all set my LCA cams as recommended, pushing the wheel as far forward as possible. THEN:
1. Sent it to G on the star plate for the most possible firewall clearance *running 315's*
2. Maxed SPC camber adj all the way in (toward motor for negative as possible)
3. Torqued that nut to 150lbs and and off to the alignment shop.
Castor was acceptable at 2.3 Passenger and 2.0 Driver, toe was perfect, but my wheels still sat like this: \ / I could not achieve the camber I needed.
After chatting with Tom in tech at SPC (who is amazing and drives a 3rd gen), he crunched some numbers for me. backing off to "F" would give me a full 1* neg camber back on EACH wheel and would only cost me 1/10 of an inch of clearance in the back. Not to mention would get Castor numbers up as well.
I did that, took it back in to get the toe re-adjusted, and my numbers are bad ass.
Attachments
fourfive
Senior Member
The numbers in the "min/max specification" column is the range your caster, camber & toe should fall within. Looks like your camber & toe numbers are within that range but the left camber is slightly higher than the max range. Your caster numbers are noticeably higher than the max range. If it drives well and there's no rubbing I'd be good with that.
HiluxSurf SSR-G
Senior Member
which ubj position pulls the tire backwards?
I have 285s. i adjusted the cams as per the pic below. then placed the UBJ at G position but there was rubbing at the bumper valance. I measured about 4" of firewall clearance and close to 2" clearance between the bumper valance & the tire. I adjusted to F then to E but there was still rubbing. also, I noticed i got about 1" of addtl lift, making it 4" of lift total.
I would like to bring the tires a bit backwards to avoid rubbing with the bumper and bring it back to 3" of lift.
Thank you, appreciate your help.
I have 285s. i adjusted the cams as per the pic below. then placed the UBJ at G position but there was rubbing at the bumper valance. I measured about 4" of firewall clearance and close to 2" clearance between the bumper valance & the tire. I adjusted to F then to E but there was still rubbing. also, I noticed i got about 1" of addtl lift, making it 4" of lift total.
I would like to bring the tires a bit backwards to avoid rubbing with the bumper and bring it back to 3" of lift.
Thank you, appreciate your help.
You've been most helpful hammering home the G setting, that's the least I can do man. I just went through my photos and found some, but I thought I had more...
Here's a couple before I removed rust on the cam adjusters.
After some clean-up...
Hope that helps a little...
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Technically, none. The SPC adjustments influence the angle of the spindle, hence caster.
In all fairness, D is neutral, A is +4° (increasing the caster angle by moving the top pivot backwards) and G is -4° (opposite of A)
To move your wheel to clear what I understand you saying you want, you need to move both LCA and UBJ. Here's how I did it (I used cam eliminators)
Rear LCA cam, full positive (outward)
Front LCA cam, neutral (centered)
SPC UBJ, set on E
Fix your camber and toe and go
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HiluxSurf SSR-G
Senior Member
octanejunkie
Elite Member
I'm not running cams, I have cam eliminators, but your rear cam would be all the way counter clockwise and your front cam centered at 12:00 to match the recommended starting point
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HiluxSurf SSR-G
Senior Member
so for the rear cam adjusters, i follow the pic i quoted on post #206.
for the front cam adjusters, i position the hole in the cam adjuster in the 12:00 position.
did i get it right?
for the front cam adjusters, i position the hole in the cam adjuster in the 12:00 position.
did i get it right?
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Accurate, but remember every truck is potentially different so get an alignment and be prepared to make changes, especially with the toe (tie rods) and camber (SPC big nut)
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HiluxSurf SSR-G
Senior Member
Thank you! got the clearance from the front bumper increased.
now to the alignment shop i go.
now to the alignment shop i go.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
96RedRunner
Senior Member
octanejunkie
Elite Member
I made my own alignment rack/jig thingie - I'll post it up when I am done "perfecting it" but with the wheels off and full weight on the LCAs it was easy to set camber and toe with a tape measure and level
96RedRunner
Senior Member
I've been down that road of DIY alignment last century tires too expensive to FAFO.
Def not knocking anyone that does.
With new LCA bushings everything suspension wise that could fubar things is at or less than 5k miles.
Doing the math alignment cost $16 a month over 12 months $8 n change over 24.
My $.04 worth inflation adjusted
Def not knocking anyone that does.
With new LCA bushings everything suspension wise that could fubar things is at or less than 5k miles.
Doing the math alignment cost $16 a month over 12 months $8 n change over 24.
My $.04 worth inflation adjusted
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Yeah, I never thought I'd be that guy but I also can't see spending $200 a pop on alignments, especially with locked out lowers and SPC uppers.I've been down that road of DIY alignment last century tires too expensive to FAFO.
Def not knocking anyone that does.
With new LCA bushings everything suspension wise that could fubar things is at or less than 5k miles.
Doing the math alignment cost $16 a month over 12 months $8 n change over 24.
My $.04 worth inflation adjusted
Most alignment techs will just set toe and go, and it's mostly on me to set caster and camber via the SPC; so why not properly set toe, too?
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
[MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] comes down to how we roll we're at different ends.
My Runner has made into the enhanced refurbed preservation category now days alignment will last.
I'd rather bash the SxS cheaper to fix faster more fun.
My Runner has made into the enhanced refurbed preservation category now days alignment will last.
I'd rather bash the SxS cheaper to fix faster more fun.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Yeah, I got it, everybody has different goals and intentions. I'm not building it to bash it, but I am pushing it to its limits and trying to build to my current use case.
I'm not advocating for anyone to change what they're doing to do what I do and I'm happy to share what I learn as I go.
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