Spending $500 on Speakers/Amp

[zimdba]

i know jl is very popular, especially on this forum, i used to be a jl freak too, until i removed my blinders and opened my mind and ears, jl is hugely over rated and over priced. There are much better or equal products out there for much much cheaper. Just an fyi.


you can get some really good speakers and a great amp for $500 no problem, unless your jumping on band wagons for overpriced over rated gear.



that and proper installation and enclosure

Statements like this are great - only as long as you provide worthwhile alternatives.

 

[zimdba]

This right here is probably one of the most important things to haveing a great sounding car. Your gonna need to put aside $300-500 for sound deadener, sealing, and sound proofing the truck. With that said heres a setup

Hu: pioneer x2700bs


Front speakers: Jbl p660c


Rear speakers: Anything, dont even need them, don't spend more that $50

Speaker amp: PPI Phantom 900.4
[url]

Sub: Alpine SWR-8D4


Sub amp: jl jx500/1
[url= Audio JX500 1D Car Audio Monoblock Class D 1 Channel Amp Amplifier 500W RMS 699440994002 | eBay[/url]

or ppi phantom 1000.1
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or this bridge to 4ohms: ppi phantom 600.2
[/QUOTE] Thanks! I'll research th...g an off-brand 30-pin to lightning connector.

 

[chillaxing]

Thanks! I'll research this stuff out today/tomorrow when I have time. Is PPI a good company? I seem to recall them being brand new when I was a teenager in the '80's.

FYI I already have the head-unit: Pioneer X5600BHS. Anything apps sucked for both my Android and my wife's iPhone 6. I think it might have been because we were using an off-brand 30-pin to lightning connector.

Then you have a good HU, lacks the processing power of the newer models but that can be fixed with a dsp. If you ever want to go that route.

PPI used to be a great company when their stuff was made in the US. Now, they are a good bang for your buck budget china stuff. Especially the phantom line. A lot enthusiast in mobile audio use them. They put out rated power, stay cool, reliable, and have a small footprint. PPI, Soundstream, NVX all use the same build house and amp board.

I listed things that are in your budget. If you want better quality products, I can give you suggestions for those too.

 

[ddnww]

Hu: pioneer x2700bs
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-AVH...338?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27ff5fd9f2

Front speakers: Jbl p660c
New JBL P660C 6 5" Component Speakers System 6 1 2 inch 540 Watts Car Audio Pair 50036930116 | eBay

Rear speakers: Anything, dont even need them, don't spend more that $50

Speaker amp: PPI Phantom 900.4
New Precision Power PPI P900 4 4 Channel Amplifier 900 Watts Phantom Car Amp | eBay

Sub: Alpine SWR-8D4
Alpine SWR 8D4 8" inch 1000 Watt Dual 4 Ohm Type R Car Subwoofer Sub SWR8D4 | eBay

Sub amp: jl jx500/1
JL Audio JX500 1D Car Audio Monoblock Class D 1 Channel Amp Amplifier 500W RMS 699440994002 | eBay

or ppi phantom 1000.1
Precision Power PPI P10001 P1000 1 1000W Phantom Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier 709483038219 | eBay

or this bridge to 4ohms: ppi phantom 600.2
Precision Power PPI P600 2 P6002 Phantom Class D Full Range 2 CH Car Amplifier 709483038189 | eBay

PPI USED TO MAKE TOP NOTCH AMPS, THERE CURRENT STUFF IS STILL GOOD LIKE YOU STATED. MY ONLY CONCERN WITH YOUR SUGGESTIONS ARE THAT AMP PUTS OUT QUITE A BIT OF POWER FOR THOSE 2 OHM COMPONENTS, UNLESS YOU MEANT TO CHOOSE THE 4 OHMS. I ALSO AM NOT ABLE TO FIND WHAT THE THD IS ON THOSE PPI'S, BUT I HAVE HEARD ALOT OF GOOD THINGS ABOUT THEM.

Statements like this are great - only as long as you provide worthwhile alternatives.

I AM NOT A FAN OF 5 CHANNEL AMPS


HERES MY SUGGESTIONS

SUB AMP

RUN AT 1 OHM, SMALL AND POWERFUL

SAE-600D - Sundown Audio Monoblock 600W RMS Digital Class D Amplifier

OR
CHEAP PRICE, RUN AT 4 OHM FOR BETTER SOUND QUALITY

BE2100.1D - Hifonics Monoblock 2100W RMS Brutus Elite Series Class D Amplifier

OR
GOOD AMP, RUN AT 4 OHM FOR SQ, PLUS LOW THD FOR EVEN MORE CLEAN SOUND, THIS IS THE ONE I WOULD GO WITH

ST-1500XM - Zapco Monoblock 1500W RMS Class A/B Studio ST Series Amplifier

SUB

THESE ARE GREAT POWERFUL SUBS WITH GOOD SPL AND SQ AND DO NOT REQUIRE ALOT OF SPACE, I AM PLANNING TO PUT ONE OF THESE IN THE REAR COMPARTMENT AREA WHERE THE JBL SYSTEM GUYS HAVE THEIR SUB

SA-8 V.3 D2 - Sundown Audio 8" 600W RMS Dual 2-Ohm SA Series Subwoofer


TO SAVE MONEY ON THE FRONT STAGE, I WOULD RECOMMEND THIS SETUP

FRONT STAGE AMP

XT-1600.2 - US Amps 2 Ch 1600 Watt Power Amplifier

THAT WILL PUT OUT 200 RMS TO TWO CHANNELS WITH CLEAN THD

YOU CAN PIGGY BACK OFF THE REAR ACOUSTIC FILL CHANNEL ON THESE COMPONENTS CROSSOVER AND KEEP IT RUNNING OFF TWO CHANNELS AND AT 4OHMS

TWO SETS OF THESE

D364.5 - Diamond Audio 6.75" 2-Way Convertible Component Speaker


THIS WOULD GIVE YOU A VERY VERY CLEAN DYNAMIC SOUND SYSTEM

 

[chillaxing]

PPI USED TO MAKE TOP NOTCH AMPS, THERE CURRENT STUFF IS STILL GOOD LIKE YOU STATED. MY ONLY CONCERN WITH YOUR SUGGESTIONS ARE THAT AMP PUTS OUT QUITE A BIT OF POWER FOR THOSE 2 OHM COMPONENTS, UNLESS YOU MEANT TO CHOOSE THE 4 OHMS. I ALSO AM NOT ABLE TO FIND WHAT THE THD IS ON THOSE PPI'S, BUT I HAVE HEARD ALOT OF GOOD THINGS ABOUT THEM.

I think those Jbl's only come in 2ohm only, not to sure though. I wished more companies would use 2ohm for speakers.

The power rating that they show is misleading. Notice the it puts out 220watts at 14.4 volts, then theres 150watts at 12.6.v. Stock alts put out 14.4 volts but by the time it reaches the battery we are not seeing that. We probably see closer to 14volts. By the time it reaches the amp, depending how far, how much cable used, and what type of cable is used. your probably seeing closer to 13.8-13.5volts. I did the big 3 and used oversized 1/0 welding cable split to two 4 awg, and by the time the power reaches my amps i'm seeing 13.6- 13.8 volts. Realistically, your seeing 150 watts from that PPI.

I wouldn't worry about over powering those components. In the mobile audio world we actually overpower the speakers on purpose. Giving it 2x the power with no problem. We call this head room. It makes it more dynamic more lively and does it with out distorting the speakers cause the amps are at their limit. Real world usage and listening levels. Your not gonna even come close to using all that power. Unless you are listening at 90% of max volume. Plus, you set the gains on the amp to make sure of that.

To give you an example: I'm running 2 JL HD amps. One 1200/1 going to my 12w7, which is rated at 1000 rms, and a 600/4 going to my tweet and mids. I don't use my rears at all, they are actually unplugged. I'm running an active setup. Which means each individual speaker gets its own channel and I'm using my HU processor to tune and set crossover points. Keep in mind that the JL HD amps puts out the amount of said watts no matter if its 14.4 volts or 12.6volts, and the same watts 1.5-4ohms. My tweeters are rated at 30watts rms and mids at 100watts rms. With all that being said. My tweets have 150 watts each and my mids have 150 watts each, and would add more to the mids if I had it. I listen to my music loud and my amps and speakers aren't even breaking a sweat. If you get quality equipment and set your gains right then you don't have to worry about overpowering. just use common sense. Like putting 500 watts to a tiny speaker. If that happened then of course its gonna blow.

With the thd, I wouldn't worry about it to much. The difference is to minute for us to hear it. It's not like we're recommending Pyle, crunch, boss, or any of that type of junk. Those PPI's are good. A lot of guys that build budget SQ systems use them and like them a lot because of their size and power output. That's why they are such a good bang for your buck mainstream amp.

 

[ddnww]

I think those Jbl's only come in 2ohm only, not to sure though. I wished more companies would use 2ohm for speakers.

The power rating that they show is misleading. Notice the it puts out 220watts at 14.4 volts, then theres 150watts at 12.6.v. Stock alts put out 14.4 volts but by the time it reaches the battery we are not seeing that. We probably see closer to 14volts. By the time it reaches the amp, depending how far, how much cable used, and what type of cable is used. your probably seeing closer to 13.8-13.5volts. I did the big 3 and used oversized 1/0 welding cable split to two 4 awg, and by the time the power reaches my amps i'm seeing 13.6- 13.8 volts. Realistically, your seeing 150 watts from that PPI.

I wouldn't worry about over powering those components. In the mobile audio world we actually overpower the speakers on purpose. Giving it 2x the power with no problem. We call this head room. It makes it more dynamic more lively and does it with out distorting the speakers cause the amps are at their limit. Real world usage and listening levels. Your not gonna even come close to using all that power. Unless you are listening at 90% of max volume. Plus, you set the gains on the amp to make sure of that.

To give you an example: I'm running 2 JL HD amps. One 1200/1 going to my 12w7, which is rated at 1000 rms, and a 600/4 going to my tweet and mids. I don't use my rears at all, they are actually unplugged. I'm running an active setup. Which means each individual speaker gets its own channel and I'm using my HU processor to tune and set crossover points. Keep in mind that the JL HD amps puts out the amount of said watts no matter if its 14.4 volts or 12.6volts, and the same watts 1.5-4ohms. My tweeters are rated at 30watts rms and mids at 100watts rms. With all that being said. My tweets have 150 watts each and my mids have 150 watts each, and would add more to the mids if I had it. I listen to my music loud and my amps and speakers aren't even breaking a sweat. If you get quality equipment and set your gains right then you don't have to worry about overpowering. just use common sense. Like putting 500 watts to a tiny speaker. If that happened then of course its gonna blow.

With the thd, I wouldn't worry about it to much. The difference is to minute for us to hear it. It's not like we're recommending Pyle, crunch, boss, or any of that type of junk. Those PPI's are good. A lot of guys that build budget SQ systems use them and like them a lot because of their size and power output. That's why they are such a good bang for your buck mainstream amp.

AHH, YES, MEMPHIS AUDIO IS NOTORIOUS FOR THAT. RATING THEIR POWER AT 17 VOLTS LOL.

BUT GIVING A SPEAKER MORE THAN ITS RATED POWER IS NOT CALLED HEADROOM THOUGH, ALTHOUGH IT CAN CREATE HEADROOM.

HEADROOM IS THE AMOUNT OF DECIBELS YOU HAVE LEFT IN YOUR AUDIO SYSTEMS DYNAMIC CAPABILITY BEFORE OVERLOADING OR CLIPPING BEGINS.

THATS A NICE SETUP YOU HAVE GOING ON THERE. I HAVENT GOT AROUND TO DOING MY AUDIO IN MY 4RUNNER YET, BUT I PLAN ON JUST ONE 8 INCH SUNDOWN SA 8 AND SOME GOOD COMPS . JUST SOMETHING CLEAN.

IN MY CADILLAC I HAVE TWO SA8'S BUT I WILL BE PULLING THOSE OUT AND INSTALLING ONE OF MY DIAMOND AUDIO 15 D9 TDX SUBS INVERTED IN A CUSTOM ENCLOSURE. FOR COMPS IM RUNNING TWO DIAMOND D9 HEX 6.5 WITH SILK TWEETERS OFF AN OLD SCHOOL ESOTERIC AMP. CLEANER THAN A WHISTLE:hatsoff:

 

[chillaxing]

well you get my drift. Was just informing the people that didn't know and are afraid of over powering their speakers.

Most good companies conservatively rate their speakers. Now you get the crap you by at autozone and walmart, they OVER rate all their products.