Spidertrax install makes me nervous...

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Spidertrax install makes me nervous...UPDATE!

I was installing my spacers on the front today and this is what they look like fully tightened and torqued to 80ft-lbs....
iphones020.jpg~original


I really don't like that the stud only threads into a little over half of the nut. The back was not like this. Anyone else run into this? There is still 1/2" or so of nut threaded onto the stud but still...should I be concerned?:wtf:
 
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ya i dont have any experience with spacers yet but it does look kinda scary. Doesnt look safe at all with the nut half way off/on...
 
ouch thats not right at all. deffinatly dont use them if thats all you can get out of it. is there a length difference between the front and rear studs? something isnt right there are you sure the hubentric ring is engaged to the spacer?

z
 
ouch thats not right at all. deffinatly dont use them if thats all you can get out of it. is there a length difference between the front and rear studs? something isnt right there are you sure the hubentric ring is engaged to the spacer?

z

Yeah, somethings not right there, take it off spin it around on there, pretty sure thats not on right...
 
Yeah, somethings not right there, take it off spin it around on there, pretty sure thats not on right...

Other side is the same way. If i spin just the spacer nut on the stud without the spacer, the stud is the exact lenght as the stud. In other words the end of the stud is flush with the nut with no spacer in between.
 
how long are the nuts? i mean if you have a good 6-8 threads in there then i would be fine with it but if its like 4 hell no. from the looks of JA's pic he has shorter nuts and the OP's are almost flush with the spacer JA's are sunken in but the studs look the same length.

z
 
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I have somewhere around 1/2 inch of thread on the nut. The stud is 27/32 long, the thickness of the spacer from the hub mating surface to the widest part of the bevel is 7/16. So I should have about 13/32 of thread minus the beveled part...
 
well short of changing your studs out just to be sure i think you should contact spidertrax about it and see what they have to say about it. honestly it sounds like your deffinatly on the edge of what id consider safe. if it was mine id get longer studs for peace of mind.

z
 
I would pm FoneRunner and see what he has to say. His picture looks like it might be the same situation as you...can't say for sure. That really doesn't look safe.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/53387-put-new-wheels-today-2.html#post439660

yeah, Fonerunner doesnt have those anymore...

probably a reason for that.


Im wondering if there is a slight difference depending on model/trim level?? or maybe its a diff between whether you had 15" or 16" wheels stock or something...
 
All Pro sells these to go with the spacers for the front. Did your spacer kit come with something like this?
 

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yeah, Fonerunner doesnt have those anymore...

probably a reason for that.


Im wondering if there is a slight difference depending on model/trim level?? or maybe its a diff between whether you had 15" or 16" wheels stock or something...

You may be right, my door jamb says i had the 225s originally.

Definatly calling spidertrax tomarrow. I just drove down the road and back, keeping it under 40mph til i figure it out. I may have to just get some longer studs.

And another thing, they say to use locktite, then drive 50 miles and retorque. Isn't that going to just break the locktite?
 
They suggest you retorque them because more than likley they will already be loose. I would strongly suggest that you do not use them until you get them mounted properly! IMO they are not safe...I didn't even like putting them on my quad because they come loose, let alone on my daily driver. The safer way to get a wider stance is to get a new set of rims with more offset.
 
So if they are already going to be loose after 50 miles bgmac then what's to stop them from coming loose another 50 later? I remember at one shop, after a rotation, they told me to come back in 100 miles to re-torque. That never made any sense to me. Can someone explain why a re-torque somehow won't come loose if the original torque came loose? :confused:

Personally, I would locktite and torque at 85 when you're done driving for the day and let it sit overnight. Wait the 50 miles and set your wrench at 83 that way if they are still tight you don't break the locktite. Does that make any sense or am I off my rocker?

That's what I am saying, why put locktite on then retorque and render it useless? Then again, I am no engineer....
 

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