Squealing under 20MPH

zach1288

New member
Hello,

I have a 2007 4runner sport v6 and recently I’ve noticed a squealing sound below about 20MPH. It’s not loud enough to hear if the windows are up, but if I have the windows down and drive near something that reflects sound I can hear it. It sounds like a belt squeal but once the vehicle is stoped it goes away. Braking doesn’t effect it either. If you have any ideas what I could start checking that would be great.

Thanks!



Video:
https://youtu.be/feZB9riJKj8
 
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Dust cover scraping against the rotor, is my guess. It will be constant until the vehicle stops. Did you have any brake service done recently or work done around them? Maybe try pushing it away from the rotor on both sides and see if it stops.


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If it was the rust cover, wouldn't it be noisy it at all speeds?



Not necessarily, as you speed up, the noise can go away or become unnoticeable due to road noise.


Just experienced this on our Subaru Legacy. The noise only appeared at low speeds, pushed the cover back and noise disappeared.

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Not necessarily, as you speed up, the noise can go away or become unnoticeable due to road noise.


Just experienced this on our Subaru Legacy. The noise only appeared at low speeds, pushed the cover back and noise disappeared.

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I just checked the covers and nothing seems to be rubbing. I tried to bend them back a little just to make sure.
 
Also check the serpentine belt, idler pulley. Might be in the early stage of failure.

It was hard to hear the sound in the video, but that would be my guess.


Sounds coming from brakes/wheels/things based on vehicle speed change....based on vehicle speed. Speed up, sound gets louder, or faster.

Sounds coming from the engine (pulleys, brake or power steering pump, or internal engine sounds) change based on RPM or load/speed of that individual component.

This isn't ALWAYS the case, but its a generalization that has often helped me think through and troubleshoot odd sounds. Just listen as you operate the vehicle, and try to match changes in the sound to what you're doing with the vehicle.

In this case, I don't think its a dust shield. Even at 20 mph, a dust shield rubbing would be more of a constant, rotational sound (squeal/squeak) given how fast a rotor is turning. Unless the dust shield is so loose that its only making contact occasionally. Which I would expect to manifest itself into more of a rattle.

This may be a bit much. But this is my thought process when analyzing an annoying/odd/new sound in my vehicle.
 
If it helps any to you OP, my top idler pulley makes a slight whirring sound. I did a temporary fix to it when I replaced the bottom pulley (nowhere in town had a top pulley in stock), I just popped the seal off the bearing and greased it. It helped, but the sound did come back slightly about a week later.

Like mentioned above, I would start here for the noise your encountering. Check your alternator too if you can. They are known to make a whirring sound when they are dying.


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I'm going with the dust cover, I had a friend drive it up and down the street as I walked along with it. I narrowed it down to the front driver's side wheel hub assembly. I squirted some WD40 into where the CV axel goes into the back side of the hub, it stopped for about 5 minutes then came back. Recently did brakes and a lift so I guess I'm taking it apart this weekend and checking the dust shields.

Just had the timing belt and all belts done so I'm confident its not that.
 
I'm going with the dust cover, I had a friend drive it up and down the street as I walked along with it. I narrowed it down to the front driver's side wheel hub assembly. I squirted some WD40 into where the CV axel goes into the back side of the hub, it stopped for about 5 minutes then came back. Recently did brakes and a lift so I guess I'm taking it apart this weekend and checking the dust shields.

Just had the timing belt and all belts done so I'm confident its not that.
It sounds like the wheel bearing is binding after the lift. That is what you spray (sort of) when you are aiming where the cv enters the hub. Actually a fairly simple fix.
 
Wheel bearing can be purchased as a complete hub assembly. Hardest part is busting loose the axle nut and getting it tight again (170+ lb/ft). Take the caliper and rotor off, remove axle nut. 4 bolts holding hub to spindle. Reverse process, and done. Just make sure that axle nut is TIGHT.
 
Do I win something?


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Is it bad I was disappointed when reading this? Glad OP figured it out, bummed my diagnosis was wrong. Put a lot of thought into that one too. [emoji23]


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Congrats to the OP on finding out it was a simple and costless cure!

Do I win something?


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No, but good job anyway!


Is it bad I was disappointed when reading this? Glad OP figured it out, bummed my diagnosis was wrong. Put a lot of thought into that one too. [emoji23]

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Yes, but good job on the thought process!
 
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