SRQ Fabrications Ultra4 4600 3rd Gen Build

The entire fuel system has been ordered and will be installed next month during cage work.

The main feed line is -8AN stainless steel hose from the 32-gallon fuel cell to the fuel rails. All stock lines will be removed along with the stock tank to make room for the 4-link setup. We will be using an inline 45psi fuel pump along with a 40-micron fuel filter.

Both the return line and vent line will be 3/8" rubber hose since we aren't made of money and stainless lines aren't cheap.

All 3 lines with have inline shutoff valves for added safety mounted near the fuel cell.
 
Alrighty, update time. As Matt stated, fuel system has been ordered and the truck is getting ready to get dropped off in Utah for the cage. That happens in just 1 week! Toby will install the cage and fuel system, as he has prior experience with these 2. And then it will come down to me where I'll install the front suspension and rear suspension and finish any odds and ends.

Some now, the front suspension.

Shocks came in from ADS!
42121205_1893085174334259_8414762735924936704_n by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr

As mentioned previously, the spindle design will be similar to my personal truck pictured here:
42096573_300403047413785_2086274316718047232_n by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr

My lower control arm is stock though, and I've been thinking about a replacement for years now.

So we are now introducing the first ever proof of concept SRQ Racing Long Travel Arm!
Tease 1 by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr
Tease 2 by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr
Tease 3 by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr

We're utilizing a uniball welded into a 3/16" plate lower control arm. We now have a LBJ Uniball adapter that allows for adequate steering angle. This adapter bolts into the stock LBJ position, and then is welded in place. This COMPLETELY eliminates all issues associated with stock Toyota 4Runner and Toyota Tacoma Lower Ball Joints. In the future we will be offering this as both a long travel kit, and a stock LCA replacement arm with both heim and stock steering.
 
Alrighty, update time.
We're utilizing a uniball welded into a 3/16" plate lower control arm. We now have a LBJ Uniball adapter that allows for adequate steering angle. This adapter bolts into the stock LBJ position, and then is welded in place. This COMPLETELY eliminates all issues associated with stock Toyota 4Runner and Toyota Tacoma Lower Ball Joints. In the future we will be offering this as both a long travel kit, and a stock LCA replacement arm with both heim and stock steering.

Put me down for a couple sets of stock replacements!:banana::dancin::hungry::hungry:

Also why not go with NiCopp lines instead of stainless? I used that for the brake and fuel lines on my Jeep when I redid everything.
 
Put me down for a couple sets of stock replacements!:banana::dancin::hungry::hungry:

Also why not go with NiCopp lines instead of stainless? I used that for the brake and fuel lines on my Jeep when I redid everything.

Well primarily since none of us had ever heard of NiCopp until just now haha. It looks like it's a hardline but softer and easier to manipulate versus a traditional line?

We're not attached to any kind of line, I like braided stainless since it's less likely to tear and get cut like a normal rubber line and can handle pressure well, and since it's a soft line is a breeze to route and move. Ideally we would run stainless on the return line too since it and the pressure line will be under the body, but due to cost and priority we're just running a normal rubber line (and then obviously for vent too).

We haven't done anything about brakes yet, but personally I run stainless lines, again due to the ease of the soft line routing and since I can swap any line in a few minutes without worrying about bending it and can carry one or two spare lines and be able to swap it out with any section of hose on the whole truck if need be.
 
Well primarily since none of us had ever heard of NiCopp until just now haha. It looks like it's a hardline but softer and easier to manipulate versus a traditional line?

It’s a hard line like the standard aluminized brake lines except it’s way easier to bend than standard lines. It’s cheaper than stainless while also being 100% rustproof. It comes in 25’ rolls in pretty much any size you’ll need. I’ve used it for both brake and fuel lines.
 
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Will the uniball's be replaceable?

Yes, there is a metal cup that is welded to the arm, then the uniball is pressed in and a snap ring goes over it to keep it from sliding out. Lots of people make and sell uniballs and they come in standard sizes. They are just like heims and bushings and are a serviceable item.
 
First round of fuel system and electrical gear showed up to my shop in Utah today.

<a href="https://imgur.com/OYZ1CEj"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/OYZ1CEjh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Started cleaning the shop up, I'm traveling for business all weekend and Connor is showing up on Monday with the racetruck so trying to get ahead of the tight schedule.

<a href="https://imgur.com/KHmOKpJ"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/KHmOKpJh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Tentative plan is I get the truck on Monday and can start doing the cage, and depending on time do some secondary tasks like mounting and wiring in comms, air, lights, switches, fuel system, etc. Ideally I'll be done with essentially all the parts inside the cab by mid-November and then the truck will go back to Connor. During that same time frame Connor will be sending the diffs out to get regeared and building the suspension, so when it comes back to him there should only be a few weeks of integrating the suspension and then armoring the truck. We're HOPEFUL for the truck to be "mostly complete" by the end of the year, that will give us a solid 4 weeks or so to do some testing and wrap it up and fix issues before heading to KOH.

Hopefully in the next couple weeks more pictures start flowing as Connor and I start fabricating our respect aspects of the truck.
 
Another update:


Welded the steering shaft on
Untitled by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr
Untitled by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr
Untitled by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr

Fiberglass fenders picked up
Untitled by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr

Cut the hatch. The spare tire will sit inside of this opening
Untitled by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr

Stripped all the windows out
Untitled by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr

Put the tiny tires on the front so Toby can move it around his shop without the tires rubbing
Untitled by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr

She's got a booty
Untitled by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr
 
The entire fuel system has been ordered and will be installed next month during cage work.

The main feed line is -8AN stainless steel hose from the 32-gallon fuel cell to the fuel rails. All stock lines will be removed along with the stock tank to make room for the 4-link setup. We will be using an inline 45psi fuel pump along with a 40-micron fuel filter.

Both the return line and vent line will be 3/8" rubber hose since we aren't made of money and stainless lines aren't cheap.

All 3 lines with have inline shutoff valves for added safety mounted near the fuel cell.

Curious about 32-gal cell vs. smaller. I debated 32, 22, and even 12 and was eventually talked into 22-gal since it'll save 60-100 pounds of weight while still being very conservative given fuel will be placed at the Main and Remote Pits.
 
Curious about 32-gal cell vs. smaller. I debated 32, 22, and even 12 and was eventually talked into 22-gal since it'll save 60-100 pounds of weight while still being very conservative given fuel will be placed at the Main and Remote Pits.



Why not have room for extra? The tank itself isn’t much heavier. Like last year, we don’t want to deal with toping the tank off at every pit to feel safe. With a 32 gallon tank, theoretically we could finish the entire race without filling up. If we don’t want the extra weight in the truck we could just put 20 gallons in the tank instead of filling it to the top. But with a smaller tank you can’t put more in if you want/need it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Connor dropped the big girl off tonight. Time to see what I can add to it.

<a href="https://imgur.com/Y0AXhEo"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Y0AXhEoh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/utEv1FZ"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/utEv1FZh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
[MENTION=92884]snivilous[/MENTION]
How do you like the new inverter style Millermatic? Do you have an older Millermatic to compare it to?
 
[MENTION=92884]snivilous[/MENTION]
How do you like the new inverter style Millermatic? Do you have an older Millermatic to compare it to?

I've never used an older miller, the only other welders I've used was some ancient thing that apparently came from harbor freight and a 110 fluxcore Lincoln. So with only that comparison--it's awesome! The previous two welders I used a lot, even did a roll cage on my 40 with the harbor freight thing, and they both sucked and I thought it was me that sucked, but this thing from the get go made me seem like a lot better welder (not that that is saying much). The ability to switch from 110 to 220 is a lot more useful than I thought it would be too, since it seems like most of the time the 220 socket is either too far away or the wrong plug or whatever.

However, I did have an issue where the breaker on the welder itself was ****ed up. It seemed to start happening about a year ago, which was only 4-6 months into owning it, sometimes it would be good for a few minutes but other times the breaker would blow after literally 3 seconds of welding. I called Miller and of course could get it warrantied and wait who knows how many weeks, but the guy said there was a batch that had "sensitive breakers". The breaker is rated to 30A and I was welding on a 20A outlet and it kept doing it so not sure what the deal was.... Anyways, figuring I'd take the chance I opened it up and swapped out the breaker with an inline fuse of all things just to see if that would fix it and voila no issues since and I just left the inline fuse there.

So do I like it? Yes, it's awesome and pretty portable and the dual voltage ability is surprisingly useful. However the fact I got a jacked welder and there wasn't a recall or notice or something since it was a known issue kind of pissed me off, especially since I was on a tight schedule doing the roll cage on my FJ80 at the time to race at KOH so having to ship the welder off for who knows how long wasn't something I could do if I wanted to make the schedule. Granted a simple fix, but still annoying. My dad just bought a Vulcan from Harbor Freight since it was a little over half the price of my Miller and so far likes it, how it holds up over time compared to the Miller we'll see. I don't know if that helped you at all haha
 
Following along, the build so far looks great. Might try and spectate at the Hammers this year.

Was searching for Falken MTs reviews and found this thread; glad I did. Are you guys running the race Falkens or DOT?
 
Following along, the build so far looks great. Might try and spectate at the Hammers this year.

Was searching for Falken MTs reviews and found this thread; glad I did. Are you guys running the race Falkens or DOT?

DOT tires, sadly stickies are only allowed for the unlimiteds. These things definitely look meaty! Will be interesting to see how they compare to other tires each of us has tried before.
 

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