SS Adjustable Traction/Pan Hard Bar Question

ryankmasuda

New member
Hi guys,

For those of you who are currently using them I have a couple questions. So for the $175 you get the three adjustable bars that replace the traction bars and the rear diagonal bar? Have you guys noticed any difference? I just finished a 8 wrap LC lift in the rear and I've noticed a slight pull when i go over speed bumps. Would this be the so called "not trailing straight". I've read many threads about the panhard drop bracket vs. adjustable bar and I'm very confused. Any help in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,


Ryan
 
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No you only get the 1(one) panhard bar. You do not get any of the other link arms. The panhard bar is adjustable and is supposed to re-center the axle under the vehicle side to side. The other two bars you can see are the lower ones running front to back and do not come as part of the Adjustable panhard bar.

Due to the link design we will always get "rear steer" because the upper link arms are drastically shorter then the lower arms and affect the arc during suspension travel. When compressed or stuffed the axle moves to the rear, when the other is at droop it moves forward. I am running the 1.2 with the adjustable bar and I still get that sideways movement/ hop over speedbumps
 
So do you recommend the adjustable panhard? does the adjustable panhard make it run parallel to the ground? Guys running the drop bracket seem to get a nice horizontal panhard where as right now I'm completely diagonal.
 
No the adjustable does not flatten the angle or make it run parrellel to the ground. The only way to do that is by using stock panhard bar and moving the bracket location of where it mounts.

Adjustable Panhard- repositions axle under the truck, also pushes the pinion flange driveshaft into the fuel tank more.

Drop bracket for Panhard- levels the bar, repositions axle under truck and keeps it further away from fuel tank. hard to make it strong enough to withstand the additional stress/ leverage and easy to break
 
so both methods have their flaws. What does the drop bracket put stress on besides the bracket and the panhard? It sounds like the adjustable panhard can cause more damage either with the drive shaft or gas tank, I remember hearing someone had their zerk fittings sheared off when the drive shaft came in contact with the gas tank shield or something.
 
The additional stress is on the bracket. Simply because you now have a longer lever arm, most people need to bolt and weld the bracket in place with good quality welds.

The adjustable will ding up the skid plate around the gas tank but not the tank itself. In the kit with the adjustable bar is a pan head screw, directions tell you to pull the zerk fitting and replace with screw. When you need to lube your driveshaft simply replace zerk then remove again for screw when done.
 
If I had access to a welder I would do the drop bracket. I have the adjustable bar which bolted right in and works ok. Does anyone have specs on the bolt that goes in the zerk fitting? I bought my kit used and didn't get one.
 
I have access to a neighbor that welds very well so I may go with the drop bracket. The price of the drop bracket is much nicer too. Has anyone ever ran both? would it reduce the stress on the bracket as well as take the drive shaft further away from the skids?
 
If I had access to a welder I would do the drop bracket. I have the adjustable bar which bolted right in and works ok. Does anyone have specs on the bolt that goes in the zerk fitting? I bought my kit used and didn't get one.

A short M6 bolt works good in the zerk hole. The panhard drop can be made a lot stronger by welding gussets to the bracket/frame to keep it from wanting to shift sideways also. That's what I plan to do, I just haven't gotten around to it yet.
 
So do I need to disconnect my panhard and measure the height distance from the left center bolt and the right center bolt?

<a href="http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a155/ryankmasuda/?action=view&current=IMAG0093.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a155/ryankmasuda/IMAG0093.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
I have a adjustable bar and it recenterd my rear end perfectly.
It was off by about 1" to the pass side.

Im only running a 2" lift in the rear though, guys with more lift might need the drop bracket.
 
i had an extended trac bar and ripped off my zirk fittings, ripped the gas tank skid up with the drive shaft, and eventually had the drive shaft dent the side of the gas tank. Plus the third member hit the gas tank skid all the time. without it all i get is some rubbing of the drive shaft flange on the third member and the gas tank skid
 
Hey Man, I live in Vancouver and have the SS bar. If you want to come check out my rear end :fro: hehe, you can see it and decide for yourself
 

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