Starter 1.4k or 1.8k determination?
- Thread starter RS Dude
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Sometimes it has markings, often not.
I never did figure mine out but guessed it was the 1.8k since I could not get it out of the engine bay. The starter contacts had gone bad on mine.
That's a job I never hope to do again.
I never did figure mine out but guessed it was the 1.8k since I could not get it out of the engine bay. The starter contacts had gone bad on mine.
That's a job I never hope to do again.
BamaDrewski
New member
I had the same question when I went to change out my starter. I went to Amazon and purchased a Denso 1.8kv. [Amazon: Denso 280-0166] 1.8kw for $123. The general rule of thumb is that the "cold weather" T4R's use the 1.8 but I do not think you could do any damage going from 1.4 to 1.8.
Someone once said if you give your VIN to the dealer over the phone, they can tell you which one your truck has. Hope this helps.
MyHigh
New member
If you go to your local dealer there is a chance they can print the original window sticker for you, depends on how far back they keep records. I lucked out and got mine printed up, I live in Oregon and the truck was originally bought in Utah.
Now for the starter, I'm not 100% on this but I think the only difference between the two are the insides. Meaning, the casing is the same, I say this because my parts dealer told me to just get the parts for the 1.8 when I was looking to install new contacts and plunger. He said it doesn't matter which one you have, and to just go for the larger parts. I can not confirm this because after printing my window sticker I found out I had the cold weather package which comes with the larger starter. I highly recommend just rebuilding your starter, it's easy and will save you money, my parts from dealer were under $20
Hopefully some else will chime in and either debunk or confirm my thought on this.
Now for the starter, I'm not 100% on this but I think the only difference between the two are the insides. Meaning, the casing is the same, I say this because my parts dealer told me to just get the parts for the 1.8 when I was looking to install new contacts and plunger. He said it doesn't matter which one you have, and to just go for the larger parts. I can not confirm this because after printing my window sticker I found out I had the cold weather package which comes with the larger starter. I highly recommend just rebuilding your starter, it's easy and will save you money, my parts from dealer were under $20
Hopefully some else will chime in and either debunk or confirm my thought on this.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
My dealer is pretty good and they had no way to figure out the starter from the VIN. I just had to guess and pick one. No window sticker for me either. If they have a return policy, buy what you need for both and return what didn't fit.
KidVermicious
New member
^ This. Find an alternator/generator shop with good reviews and let them do their thing. It's cheaper than buying new or a reman, and if something does go wrong you've got a local shop to talk to about it.
While you're in there ask them if they can beef up the output. Frequently they can, for not much more money.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
That's if you can remove it from the engine! Some of us are cursed with a frame/engine design that block the starter from coming out unless you pull the engine or something drastic like that. I had to rebuild mine INSIDE the engine bay. Never again.
RS Dude
Member
Thanks for all your suggestions. With 292,000 miles of flawless service, my original starter will be getting new contacts (Victory Lap kit) and a cleaning and lubing as preventative maintenance. I will order the 1.8kw kit. I suspect I have the 1.8kw starter because I have the V6 Auto SR5 with rear heater, A/C, and tow package as standard equip. The 1.4kw starters most likely were used in 4 cyl and stripped V6 4Runners. Also, according to Amazon parts checker, it shows the 1.8kw starter is used with auto trans. (Victory Lap ND-36SOL kit), while the 1.4kw starter (ND-34SOL) is for the manual trans. :cheers:
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In case anyone still has any confusion on the whole 34SOL vs 36SOL for auto vs manual, I just used the Victory Lap 36-SOL on my 97 Auto with no issues while some (but not all) people on the forum here said they won't fit and I'd have to get 34SOL. [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION], more data for you since you were asking about this here and there.
TheDurk
Elite Member
I agree. There may be a few 5-speeds with the cold package that got 1.8kWs, but I don't think there are any auto 1.4kWs. At least not V6.
add to that the 1.8 is about an 1.25" longer, and DOES work in place of the 1.4 on a manual trans.
i had taken a pic of them side by side when i swapped them, but that HD has long since died.
Here's a pic of both sizes if anyone is curious. I did the starter on my 97 5-speed SR5 4WD a few weeks ago and replaced the 1.4 with a 1.8kw.
I didn't have to go thru the wheel well, like most people have described doing. It came out through the space above the steering rack - I had to flip it around first, and it was still pretty awkward, but seemed easier (and less scary) than squeezing it past the brake lines through the wheel well. I did undo the brake line bolts so I could get my hand in there to move it around.
I was also able to get a socket wrench (and later, a torque wrench) right onto the starter bolts without any extensions.
End result: a shitty aftermarket 1.4kw starter came out...a new (reman) 1.8kw Denso went in. I was a bit concerned that the bigger one wouldn't fit - I couldn't figure out which size mine originally had. It's a manual, and it seems like those got the 1.4kw at the factory, but mine was also sold in Canada and as far as I can tell had the cold weather package (meaning the 1.8kw starter). Turned out I had a 1.4 in there, but it was definitely not the original.
I don't know if this was easier because I have a standard rather than an automatic, just wanted to share that it is possible this way!
I didn't have to go thru the wheel well, like most people have described doing. It came out through the space above the steering rack - I had to flip it around first, and it was still pretty awkward, but seemed easier (and less scary) than squeezing it past the brake lines through the wheel well. I did undo the brake line bolts so I could get my hand in there to move it around.
I was also able to get a socket wrench (and later, a torque wrench) right onto the starter bolts without any extensions.
End result: a shitty aftermarket 1.4kw starter came out...a new (reman) 1.8kw Denso went in. I was a bit concerned that the bigger one wouldn't fit - I couldn't figure out which size mine originally had. It's a manual, and it seems like those got the 1.4kw at the factory, but mine was also sold in Canada and as far as I can tell had the cold weather package (meaning the 1.8kw starter). Turned out I had a 1.4 in there, but it was definitely not the original.
I don't know if this was easier because I have a standard rather than an automatic, just wanted to share that it is possible this way!
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TheDurk
Elite Member
Kwikvette
New member
It is definitely easier on a stick shift as mentioned above, but it's not really difficult on an automatic anyway.
