Starts then dies

[4runnerinbaja]

Few weeks back it would die @ idle then start no prob. went to start this morning starts then dies after few seconds if you give it gas engine revs. but still dies, New to fourum so thanks in advance I've seen this ?. asked on several web sites but no real, solutions stuck in baja.

 

[Baja Runner]

Where in Baja are you?

Have you checked for any codes?

Id start first with some easy things, make sure the fuel filter isn't clogged, check spark plugs, coils, etc....

Hopefully someone can chime in here with some more help, I am a little stumped at the moment. It could really be a lot of things. Crank positioning sensor, maybe...

I doubt its anything like O2, MAF, ECT, or TPS sensors...

 

[Maxil]

I would clean the Throttle body, but I had the problem on warm starts only, not cold ones.

 

[4runnerinbaja]

1995 v6, no engine miss, I her solenoid clicking when key turned on, no way for me to check codes how ever check engine light did not come on when it died @ idle prior, would restart and it would run fine, starts easy just will not stay running

 

[Rhsbrianm]

Sorry to resurrect this but I have a start then stall issue as well.

1999 V6. Every 100 miles or so the truck would run rough and throw a P0306 code so obviously misfiring. Would rectify itself after a trip and would do it either hot or cold.

A few weeks ago, was definitely the first really cold night, while at highway speeds the truck suddenly lost most power. The rpm’s fairly quickly dropped until the engine could no longer run so it stalled out. Could not start after that.

Got towed home and pulled codes. Same P0306 as well as a P0171 now. Tried starting just for S’s and G’s and now it does the following every single time. It starts fine and over the course of 4ish seconds the rpm’s drop until it sputters to a stop.

EFI and COR are tested good. MAF was cleaned. Can audibly hear the fuel pump.

Anyone have ideas where should I be looking?

 

[TheDurk]

Sorry to resurrect this but I have a start then stall issue as well.

1999 V6. Every 100 miles or so the truck would run rough and throw a P0306 code so obviously misfiring. Would rectify itself after a trip and would do it either hot or cold.

A few weeks ago, was definitely the first really cold night, while at highway speeds the truck suddenly lost most power. The rpm’s fairly quickly dropped until the engine could no longer run so it stalled out. Could not start after that.

Got towed home and pulled codes. Same P0306 as well as a P0171 now. Tried starting just for S’s and G’s and now it does the following every single time. It starts fine and over the course of 4ish seconds the rpm’s drop until it sputters to a stop.

EFI and COR are tested good. MAF was cleaned. Can audibly hear the fuel pump.

Anyone have ideas where should I be looking?

Cam and crank sensors should be checked. If ECM is not getting a signal from those after starter disconnects, ECM thinks engine did not start and cuts fuel.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

The system too lean code could have something to do with your problem also.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Rhsbrianm]

Cam and crank sensors should be checked. If ECM is not getting a signal from those after starter disconnects, ECM thinks engine did not start and cuts fuel.

One of the tests was to try and start the engine with the circuit opening relay jumpered closed. You can audibly hear the fuel pump when the COR was jumpered closed, however, there was no change in symptoms when trying to start the engine. It still started right up but then soon died. Would the ECM cut fuel by attempting to open the COR?

If so then maybe would you think I can rule those out? I planned on checking the resistance values of those sensors anyways when I get home but I'm trying to think of all possible solutions.

I do have a fresh MAF sensor coming Tuesday because that was the first spot I checked. After I cleaned it I tested the voltage on wires 3 and 4 as per the FSM and detected no voltage with change in airflow. It was a bit difficult though testing the voltage since its quite cold out. Maybe I didn't make a connection.

 

[TheDurk]

One of the tests was to try and start the engine with the circuit opening relay jumpered closed. You can audibly hear the fuel pump when the COR was jumpered closed, however, there was no change in symptoms when trying to start the engine. It still started right up but then soon died. Would the ECM cut fuel by attempting to open the COR?

If so then maybe would you think I can rule those out? I planned on checking the resistance values of those sensors anyways when I get home but I'm trying to think of all possible solutions.

I do have a fresh MAF sensor coming Tuesday because that was the first spot I checked. After I cleaned it I tested the voltage on wires 3 and 4 as per the FSM and detected no voltage with change in airflow. It was a bit difficult though testing the voltage since its quite cold out. Maybe I didn't make a connection.

Cuts fuel AND spark, I believe.A new MAF is certainly a good check though. They can be hard to test reliably under the best of circumstances.

 

[Rhsbrianm]

Well a new MAF sensor, unfortunately, does not solve my issue. The cam sensor's resistance tested within spec. The crank sensor is at a funky angle to get the plug off in this cold so I haven't successfully tested that yet.

I really don't want to start firing the parts cannon at it considering I try and stay OEM. Would you guys think techstream can paint a better picture for me? I have it arriving in the mail tomorrow.

 

[RubiconBob]

Try turning the key to the ignition position for a few seconds. Then go to start. If it starts and you can smell a rich exhaust.. it might be a leaking fuel injector.
The leaking fuel floods the cylinder. Plus the engine doesn't have proper fuel pressure at start.

 

[TheDurk]

Try turning the key to the ignition position for a few seconds. Then go to start. If it starts and you can smell a rich exhaust.. it might be a leaking fuel injector.
The leaking fuel floods the cylinder. Plus the engine doesn't have proper fuel pressure at start.

Nice try, but fuel pump on these trucks does not run until key is in Start position.

 

[T.A.Kirk]

Well a new MAF sensor, unfortunately, does not solve my issue. The cam sensor's resistance tested within spec. The crank sensor is at a funky angle to get the plug off in this cold so I haven't successfully tested that yet.

I really don't want to start firing the parts cannon at it considering I try and stay OEM. Would you guys think techstream can paint a better picture for me? I have it arriving in the mail tomorrow.

Here's a thought: Your symptoms match perfectly what happens when I try to start my 99 with the non-chipped copied aftermarket key. Is there possibly an issue with the ignition interlock feature? Perhaps the module that senses the chip and/or the chip has fried?

Friend of mine had similar issues, and come to find out, one set of his car keys got torched by the electromagnetic crap where he works. I think he said he'd set the keys on top of something, and then someone activated that something before he could get the keys off, and that killed the chip in the key that told the ignition interlock that the right key was in the car.

Sometimes, anti-theft is a "anti-owner" technology...

 

[Palatino]

Could be ignition issues

Hello, I'm new to the forum and haven't had time to check if anyone has mentioned this, but recently I had the same problem so I'd like to contribute.
I have a 98 Sr5 and I changed the valve covers taking everything off and putting back together (fuel lines, vacuum hoses, intake manifolds). When I tried to start it up after I put the final piece (intake tube) back, the engine started right up like it normally would, meaning no labored or prolonged cranking, but it hit less than 1000 rev and died. Normally when I start it cold it would rev to 1500-2000 for a while before it drops to 600-700. I searched online for solutions and it says it could be vacuum leaks or fuel not getting in to the engine, but I checked all hoses and could not find one that's forgotten to put back on or cracked severely. Some additional search told me that it could be the spark plugs not firing right, but I changed the plugs recently and inspected them during the valve cover job as well, and they look nice and clean without oil/fuel on them. Logical thinking tells me that it could be the electrical components related to the plugs, so I checked for the spark plug wires on the driver side (cylinders 2 4 6) which look good, and the coils on the passenger side (cylinders 1 3 5) are securely tightened by the bolts. However, the culprit ended up being the black connectors on the coils. Two of them were loose for whatever reason (probably me being dumb) and I plugged them back in making sure I hear a click. Tried again, started right up and ran for a long time like it normally would. Apparently the engine could not run on one coil and one wire (2 cylinders).

 

[jgue467]

...
culprit ended up being the black connectors on the coils. Two of them were loose for whatever reason (probably me being dumb) and I plugged them back in making sure I hear a click. Tried again, started right up and ran for a long time like it normally would. Apparently the engine could not run on one coil and one wire (2 cylinders).

You honestly expect a 6 cylinder engine to start and run on two cylinders?

Try it with only 4, still won't work....

 

[Yonarunner]

97 4 runner v6. I start it and it won't stay running. Turns over just fine and it will only stay running if I gas it and then it stays running and runs fine. I hear the fuel pump kick on and just changed plugs and wires. And suggestions?? Thank you in advance!!