Stealership quote
- Thread starter jstim
- Start date
I think something else that I would consider is how bad is the oil leak and is it worth paying that kind of money to fix it? With the amount of money you would spend fixing the leak, you could buy ALOT of oil to keep it full and have ALOT left over for other stuff.
I park my wifes 3rd gen over an old rear cargo mat. Why? Because it leaks oil. Am I worried about it? Nope. I just did alot of work on it: valve cover gaskets, heater control valve, heater hoses, rear heater delete, plugs, wires, coil boots, and thermostat. It all started because the rear half moon on the passenger side was leaking oil onto the exhaust and she complained about the burnt oil smell. So I fixed that, but am not really concerned if it stops the oil drips (probably won't). My outlook on it is "so what if it leaks a little oil, it's a 19 year old vehicle". On there other hand, I have a 1955 Chevy pickup that a customer brought me to fix the oil leaks on because he can't stand to have oil stains on his garage floor.
I park my wifes 3rd gen over an old rear cargo mat. Why? Because it leaks oil. Am I worried about it? Nope. I just did alot of work on it: valve cover gaskets, heater control valve, heater hoses, rear heater delete, plugs, wires, coil boots, and thermostat. It all started because the rear half moon on the passenger side was leaking oil onto the exhaust and she complained about the burnt oil smell. So I fixed that, but am not really concerned if it stops the oil drips (probably won't). My outlook on it is "so what if it leaks a little oil, it's a 19 year old vehicle". On there other hand, I have a 1955 Chevy pickup that a customer brought me to fix the oil leaks on because he can't stand to have oil stains on his garage floor.
mtbtim
Elite Member
I'm with [MENTION=134872]The Count[/MENTION] on this one. How bad is the leak? If it's not that bad, just let it go and add oil when you need to.
Your dealer quotes in Oklahoma are super fair by the way. In the California Bay Area, the Toyota dealers bend you over hard, no lube and no reach around. To give you an example, after I finished doing the valve cover gasket job, I called my local dealership and got a quote to see how much they would have charged me. I was quoted around $1000. Their labor rates are $150/hr and they cut you no slack whatsoever. And, every time I've been there the service department is jam packed with people and vehicles so they are making a killing. Even the independent shops in my area are expensive but you can definitely find better deals staying away from the dealerships.
In your search to locate the source of the leak, I would spray a bunch of engine cleaner under your rig and then go to one of those coin-op car washes and spray it clean as best you can. Maybe then you can find the source of the leak.
[MENTION=92510]Ol'Blue[/MENTION] suggestion sounds good. I didn't even know you could add a dye to your oil. Interesting.
Your dealer quotes in Oklahoma are super fair by the way. In the California Bay Area, the Toyota dealers bend you over hard, no lube and no reach around. To give you an example, after I finished doing the valve cover gasket job, I called my local dealership and got a quote to see how much they would have charged me. I was quoted around $1000. Their labor rates are $150/hr and they cut you no slack whatsoever. And, every time I've been there the service department is jam packed with people and vehicles so they are making a killing. Even the independent shops in my area are expensive but you can definitely find better deals staying away from the dealerships.
In your search to locate the source of the leak, I would spray a bunch of engine cleaner under your rig and then go to one of those coin-op car washes and spray it clean as best you can. Maybe then you can find the source of the leak.
[MENTION=92510]Ol'Blue[/MENTION] suggestion sounds good. I didn't even know you could add a dye to your oil. Interesting.
Ol'Blue
New member
That's a little trick of the trade. Most shops won't tell you that bit we with our customers. It saves time and money and the customer is happy. That's why we're still open after 20 plus long hard years.
Blue
joshespdx
New member
Not to hijack the thread, but I would disagree with that. I've worked for 3 dealerships over the years. Dealers in the "big city" have a particular advantage over "small town" dealers: volume. When you have high volume, up-sells at the service counter are partially driven by work load. Unless there was something painfully obvious that needed to be done to a customer car or if it was a quick maintenance up-sell (fluid flush, cabin filter, etc) we'd do the work and get them outa there. There were plenty of days that I worked 12+ hours and billed over 24 hours of work. Conversely, small town dealers don't have the advantage of volume, but their techs are still paid on a flat-rate scale. Guess what that translates to: trying to sell anything and everything you can to the customer in order bill your hours. There were plenty of days that we went home after 10 hours in our stalls with less than 4 hours to bill. I had more "you wouldn't believe what I sold on that car" conversations in a small dealer than I ever did in the large.
And I ran in to my customers regularly in Portland, OR (large dealers; not a small town).
That being said, there are shady techs everywhere. Shop size and town size doesn't matter when it comes to that. (that's what the ladies always say, anyway [emoji12])
LittleCaesar
New member
That is pretty good price considering the work that has to be done.
If you aren't using a high mileage oil, try doing so. It may help swell the seals.
If you aren't using a high mileage oil, try doing so. It may help swell the seals.
I'd go buy a large dark color doormat and put it where you park. That's not that bad, especially considering it's not enough to cause refilling between changes.
My neighbor has a doormat epoxy'd to the street where he parks his Chevy pickup. The rear main or very back of the pan is leaking and when I gave him a quote to fix it he said he'd rather buy oil and doormats, and I don't blame him.
My neighbor has a doormat epoxy'd to the street where he parks his Chevy pickup. The rear main or very back of the pan is leaking and when I gave him a quote to fix it he said he'd rather buy oil and doormats, and I don't blame him.
LittleCaesar
New member
How long have you been using the high mileage oil? I have a neighbor who got a 1994 Ford Ranger for free for his 16 year old son. It had been sitting for four years and after changing the oil in it the rear main was leaking pretty bad but we decided to hold off on changing it until the clutch gives up the ghost. Three months later and no spots in the driveway.
Take some undercarriage pics if you can.
Take some undercarriage pics if you can.
jstim
New member
I've been running high mileage for 20k ish, since I bought it a little over a year ago. And I will try to get some pictures of the underside after I get it cleaned up. It's been so windy today I am more afraid of spraying cleaner all over.
jstim
New member
I took the advice from @Ol' Blue. I went and got some brake keen, cleaned up the underneath of the truck, dropped some dye in the oil, and went and ran the truck for about 10 minutes. Behold I have found the leak, I am not sure if it is the rear main seal or the oil pan though. I want to say it is the rear main just based on where I saw the droplet emerge via blacklight.
So the first picture is sideways, looking from the about under the passenger front door, toward the front. In the second you can see where that black piece of metal meets the tranny is where it looks like its coming out at.
However there is a little new oil on the back of the oil pan right in that area too. Should I just get the rear main done or should I pull the front diff and change the oil pan gasket?
So the first picture is sideways, looking from the about under the passenger front door, toward the front. In the second you can see where that black piece of metal meets the tranny is where it looks like its coming out at.
However there is a little new oil on the back of the oil pan right in that area too. Should I just get the rear main done or should I pull the front diff and change the oil pan gasket?
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jstim
New member
How do you remove the torque converter shield? And how can you tell if it is leaking from the seal or from the oil pan once you get it off?
There should be some small diameter bolts that bolt it to the transmission's bellhousing. They may be kind of a PITA to get out, I can't remember the last time I took one off a third gen. Once you remove it, re-clean the back area of the oil pan where the leak is with brake cleaner. Start it up and watch to see if the leak starts just above the oil pan, you may need a mirror.
If it's a decent sized leak, while the engine is running, chances are it's the rear main seal. It's under oil pressure while running, and the pan gasket is not. Pan gaskets tend to "seep" more than "run or drip", especially while parked and idling.
jstim
New member
This might sound dumb, but I'm going to ask to make sure I'm being thorough and understand to the fullest. Once I get the shield off I can run it with the shield off?
I'm just trying to make sure I'm not replacing a $600 rear main seal if I don't have to, considering it's starting to look like it's time for new cv boots.
Yes, you can run it without the torque converter shield on.
jstim
New member
There are trade offs to living in one of the 10 crappiest towns, I say town because this place isn't a city. Even though it is the 3rd largest in Oklahoma. $150 an hour is a bit absurd, you must live in California or a major metro area.
jstim
New member
Cool I will get after that this weekend. My crossmember is so dirty from the oil leak, I'm ready to just make it stop.
