Steering Column U-Joint

The dealer says that the U-joint is toast. They want $500 to fix that. But they also say that the power steering lines are rusted and they want $1000 to replace them.
 
Yikes. I'd climb under and get a few pics. If you pull the wheel off it is a bit easier to see what you are looking for. The splash guard on the drivers side pulls off the plastic tabs that hang it in the wheel well. Bayou should be able to get a good look from the rear side of the suspension pillar. The power steering lines run nearby, and you should be able to see if they need replacing (my guess is not). The undercarriage on my truck was pretty rusty and the power steering lines were perfect, as was the rack.
 
And they said the right side CV boot is torn. Also the brackets for the drivers side running board are rusted out.

I'm starting to think it may be time for a new truck. Every six months I'm dumping another couple grand into it.

My undercarriage was more than a little rusty - the frame was replaced last December.
 
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Cv boot might not be a huge deal, some just replace the axle rather than rebuilding the old unit (total cost 90-300 dollars depending on doing it yourself or at the shop). Rusty running board supports are no big deal. Even take the running boards off if you don't need em.
 
Old thread, but I wanted to add this to the instructions. When you are putting the new shaft in make sure you the top part of it on the outside of the exhaust or you will not be able to connect it at the top and you will need to take the bottom apart again. Fortunately I saw this before it was to late.

I bought a nice one from a salvage yard for $50 plus shipping. Just watch the mileage and/or the part of the country it comes from.
 
Anybody tried replacing just the u joint itself? $14 instead of $170, if only it works. I just got under the vehicle and checked out the joint, there don't appear to be and snap rings at all. It wasn't machined in one piece in the factory of course...but how would replacement be accomplished without snap rings to remove??

Amazon.com: 4520335310 - Universal Joint / U-Joint 16X40 For Toyota - Febest: Automotive

<img src="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71lRM3S4-OL._SL1407_.jpg"width="20%">

31w%2BCugQRlL.jpg
 
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Anybody tried replacing just the u joint itself? $14 instead of $170, if only it works. I just got under the vehicle and checked out the joint, there don't appear to be and snap rings at all. It wasn't machined in one piece in the factory of course...but how would replacement be accomplished without snap rings to remove??

Amazon.com: 4520335310 - Universal Joint / U-Joint 16X40 For Toyota - Febest: Automotive

<img src="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71lRM3S4-OL._SL1407_.jpg"width="20%">

31w%2BCugQRlL.jpg

I think I've still got my old one laying around if you want it to play with. I don't see a feasible way of replacing it tho.
 
I've gotten everything off, but the bottom from the rack. Tried prying, yanking on it, WD40, can't get it to slide off. Is there a secret? Driving me nuts, and it won't curse off! LOL
 
I saw a video of someone using an air hammer and just the right angle to push it out from below.

"Eric the car guy" has a great video of replacing this very part on a 4runner. I used the same method with an air chisel to get mine free.
 
"Eric the car guy" has a great video of replacing this very part on a 4runner. I used the same method with an air chisel to get mine free.

You're right. That's the one I remember watching. It's been a while and couldn't remember where I saw it.
 
I've gotten everything off, but the bottom from the rack. Tried prying, yanking on it, WD40, can't get it to slide off. Is there a secret? Driving me nuts, and it won't curse off! LOL

We used a screwdriver or chisel and hammer to pry the slot of the fitting apart a little and it came right off.
 
Did mine yest/today, what a PITA! Thing was seized solid. Soaked it overnight, pulled the CV, acetylene/pb blaster to shock it, hit it with hammers, air hammers, pickle forks, wouldn't budge. Finally pulled the boot and protected everything around it with double layers of welding blanket and cut it out.

<img src="http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv62/jbtvt/Yotatech/01121620071_zps7lmk0hg8.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 01121620071_zps7lmk0hg8.jpg"width="400" height="700" /></a>

It does look like the u joint I linked to previously would have worked but obviously I wasn't going to bother finding that out now, went out and bought a new shaft for $228. Ouch. Least it was in stock.

So glad the GX replacement is from TX and will be undercoated religiously.

I moved the wheel and rack around when I was dking with it. If you need to refind center tack a mason line to the front and rear tires in the middle (clearing the running boards) and adjust the front wheel so the line barely touches the back of front tire and front of back tire, then move steering wheel to center and all set.

If anyone does replace just the ujoint you will need to keep the end caps from walking out or you could lose steering on the highway if the fall out. they are probably crimped in so will need to be reamed to get the new caps in and then re-crimped with a chisel, tack weld or something to keep them from coming out again.

Epic the car guy's video is at https://youtu.be/bqPF_SNueyg
 
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I'm having this exact same issue and my mechanic said its the new rims and tires I put on that are causing the stress on the steering system....

I made sure that the overall size did not change by going to 20's, so what he's saying makes no sense.

Thats when I decided to look this up myself and came across this thread. So before I go back to the OEM 16 inch wheels, I think its worth trying to replace this part instead.

Can someone please point me to the correct part numbers? I've checked all the ones on here and can't find them on RockAuto.com

I'll try my local Toyota dealer tomorrow. Thanks.
 
Rockauto is only aftermarket, the full shaft is Toyota part only. The aftermarket ujoint only I listed on previous page should fit, if you're handy and you don't have to destroy the shaft to remove it that'd be the way to go. Hell, Paypal me $7 for shipping and I'll send you the one I bought - if you'll really try install it, just to confirm it's an option.

Edit - NM you're in Canada, that would cost way more than $7 to ship. Offer stands for anyone in the states though, as long as you'll update with results and hopefully a pic or two. SilverGS, post the price you would pay for the shaft in Canada when you check with the dealer tomorrow please.
 
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Rockauto is only aftermarket, the full shaft is Toyota part only. The aftermarket ujoint only I listed on previous page should fit, if you're handy and you don't have to destroy the shaft to remove it that'd be the way to go. Hell, Paypal me $7 for shipping and I'll send you the one I bought - if you'll really try install it, just to confirm it's an option.

Edit - NM you're in Canada, that would cost way more than $7 to ship. Offer stands for anyone in the states though, as long as you'll update with results and hopefully a pic or two. SilverGS, post the price you would pay for the shaft in Canada when you check with the dealer tomorrow please.
Thanks for the offer! :thumb::thumb:

I went ahead and purchased it from the link that Bossman posted as dealer prices in Canada are such a major ripoff. Even with the nasty exchange rate, it came out too $258. From what Bossman posted its almost $400 from a local dealer.

Thanks again folks. I'll post some pics after the old one is replaced.
 

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