Steering Rack and Front Sway Bar Bushing Replacement

[mtbtim]

Steering Rack and Front Sway Bar Bushing Replacement Video Tutorial

Hey Dudes and any Dudettes,

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I did another repair video this past week. If you were thinking of replacing your Steering Rack Bushings, Front Sway Bar Bushings and End Link Bushings, this would be a good tutorial for you to follow to get the job done.

We replaced the steering rack bushings with a polyurethane kit from Energy Suspension and they fit great. The sway bar kit is also polyurethane and was made by Prothane. The Prothane 18-1115 kit sway bar bushings fit great but the end link bushings didn't fit well. The diameter of the hole in the bushing was too big for my end links which causes a lot of slop. Hopefully Prothane will address this so others don't have this problem. The issue is supposedly Toyota has different end link diameters within the 3rd Gen years. I gave them a suggestion on how to rectify this and I hope they take my advice.

Please let us know if the video was helpful and any comments on how we could do a better job.

Thanks and enjoy the show.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YywcR0E9bM4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[amalik]

I hope I'm still wrenching when I'm 50. Good job! You guys are putting out great material.

 

[mtbtim]

I hope I'm still wrenching when I'm 50. Good job! You guys are putting out great material.

Well I have to admit doing physical work is getting a little tougher as I age but this is nothing compared to how hard I have to work sometimes as a firefighter with all the gear loading me down and then working super hard at a fire or other emergency scene.

Age is just a number and it definitely helps working out and keeping yourself in shape. I'm hoping to be active my entire life but there's obviously going to be a point where crawling underneath my truck isn't going to sound so appealing when I'm a seriously old codger. I'm one of the oldest people in my fire department now. The jokes about my age keep coming, but it's fun, and I dish it out pretty good too.

Thanks for the compliment. Sean (aka [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION]) gets all the credit for the video work. He's quite the computer geek and knows how to do all that propellerhead stuff that I would struggle with.

 

[Herculean T4R]

Great work!

 

[amalik]

Well I have to admit doing physical work is getting a little tougher as I age but this is nothing compared to how hard I have to work sometimes as a firefighter with all the gear loading me down and then working super hard at a fire or other emergency scene.

Age is just a number and it definitely helps working out and keeping yourself in shape. I'm hoping to be active my entire life but there's obviously going to be a point where crawling underneath my truck isn't going to sound so appealing when I'm a seriously old codger. I'm one of the oldest people in my fire department now. The jokes about my age keep coming, but it's fun, and I dish it out pretty good too.

Thanks for the compliment. Sean (aka [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION]) gets all the credit for the video work. He's quite the computer geek and knows how to do all that propellerhead stuff that I would struggle with.

At what age are firemen normally able to retire?

 

[seabun]

Great video! Thank you for making it. I've done the endlink bushings and swaybar bushings but have yet to tackle the steering rack ones. Having watched your video I feel more confident in tackling this project.

Also, I had the same issue you had with the prothane endlink bushings being too "big". I ended up using energy suspension's endlink kit instead (part no. 9.8105R/G) and they fit correctly.

 

[mtbtim]

At what age are firemen normally able to retire?

Well, it depends when you were hired and what retirement program you have. When I was hired, the minimum retirement age was 50. So, I could technically retire right now. The most recent guys hired now can't retire until age 57. The age you retire also depends partly on what age you started and whether you'll have enough money to live on. I've got 21 years into CalPers which stands for California Public Employees Retirement System. I would like to put in another 5 years, but if I'm feeling good, I might shoot for age 59 and retire at maximum benefit.

So, it boils down to what retirement program you were hired under and how many years you need to work to support yourself and your lifestyle after retirement.

 

[amalik]

Well, it depends when you were hired and what retirement program you have. When I was hired, the minimum retirement age was 50. So, I could technically retire right now. The most recent guys hired now can't retire until age 57. The age you retire also depends partly on what age you started and whether you'll have enough money to live on. I've got 21 years into CalPers which stands for California Public Employees Retirement System. I would like to put in another 5 years, but if I'm feeling good, I might shoot for age 59 and retire at maximum benefit.

So, it boils down to what retirement program you were hired under and how many years you need to work to support yourself and your lifestyle after retirement.

Unless the hedge fund managers feel like making billions that year... short the market... and f@=## all the retirement plans.

Lulz

Just kidding, good explanation

 

[4Runner4TW]

Hey Dudes and any Dudettes,

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I did another repair video this past week. If you were thinking of replacing your Steering Rack Bushings, Front Sway Bar Bushings and End Link Bushings, this would be a good tutorial for you to follow to get the job done.

We replaced the steering rack bushings with a polyurethane kit from Energy Suspension and they fit great. The sway bar kit is also polyurethane and was made by Prothane. The Prothane 18-115 kit sway bar bushings fit great but the end link bushings didn't fit well. The diameter of the hole in the bushing was too big for my end links which causes a lot of slop. Hopefully Prothane will address this so others don't have this problem. The issue is supposedly Toyota has different end link diameters within the 3rd Gen years. I gave them a suggestion on how to rectify this and I hope they take my advice.

Please let us know if the video was helpful and any comments on how we could do a better job.

Thanks and enjoy the show.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YywcR0E9bM4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I found the issue with the end link bushings as well. Luckily I had a rubber set I could toss on there. Before I didn't think much of it and drove it around until the clunk got to be too much. GREAT video!

 

[foo]

Thanks for this thread and the video!

I heard clunks last night while driving and then found this under the truck in the morning.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...er-part-under-my-4runner-makes-noise-now.html

Here's my writeup of what was said in the video, with respect to the sway bar R&R (please correct if I made a mistake), plus what I found in a few other videos and DIYs just now.


I had never heard of a sway bar before, but looking it up, apparently the (anti) sway bar reduces body roll on turns (forcing the inside tire down) and on uneven roads. Apparently offroaders disconnect one end and some even remove the entire sway bar, and many (apparently) don't even notice it being gone when they do remove it or when the ends are sheared off.

1. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-rack-front-sway-bar-bushing-replacement.html
2. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...e-front-sway-bar-end-link-bushing-review.html

I just watched this 30-minute video shown in the first of two links in my last post (where mtbtim did more than just the sway bar) and he said they had the same problem with the Prothane 18-115 kit end link bushings, which were too loose (the hole was too big).

Mtbtim said that the problem is that Toyota used different diameter sway bar end links for the various 3rd-generation models.

So, the problem is to get the right diameter - which may not be easy.

Here's my summary of the sway bar part of that video:

Suppliers:
prothane.com +1-888-776-8426

energysuspension.com +1-888-913-6374
Sway Bar & End Link Bushings

Issues:
You must first measure the end link post diameter before ordering the endlink bushings!

Summit: Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushings 8-5118G
Front Sway Bar Bushings - Toyota 4Runner - 181115
Front Sway Bar and End Link Bushings - Tacoma, 4Runner

Parts:
Energy Suspension frong swaybar bushing kit, 27mm, 8.5118G (black) or 8.5118R (red)
Installation instructions: http://imagesrv.catalograck.com/imgVD/ENE/17039.pdf

Prothane Front Sway Bar & End Link Bushing Kit, 26mm Bar 18-1115 (many people find the endlink bushings too large!)

Torque:
12mm Sway bar body bushing bracket nut & bolt 19 ft-lb
14mm Stabilizer bar links top nut 14 ft-lb
19mm Steering rack bushing bracket 123 ft-lb
19mm Tie-rod nut 67 ft-lb

Procedure:
Lock steering wheel (if you plan on removing the steering rack)
Chock the wheels prior to jacking
Loosen front wheel lug nuts
Jack up and place the truck on four 6-ton 15-inch jack stands
Remove front wheels
With a 14mm socket, remove the top nut of the sway bar end link
Mark the top of the top washer (as they are unidirectional)
By hand, pull off the top washer & rubber bushing off the sway bar end link
Wear safety glasses (to prevent crud falling down into your eyes)
Spray the two sway bar body bushing bolts with PB Blaster or equivalent if they look rusted
Mark the sway bar body bushing brackets so that you don't put them on backward
With a 12mm socket, remove the 12mm nut on the top sway bar body bushing bracket bolt
With a 12mm socket, remove the 12mm nut on the bottom sway bar body bushing bracket bolt
Grease both the ID and OD of the sway bar body bushings with silicone (non petroleum!) grease to prevent squeaking
Add removable locktite (blue?) to the bolts and nuts

Caveats:
There is a 26mm and a 27mm sway bar body bushing ID; get the right one!
There are different sizes for the sway bar end link diameters also; measure first!
It's hard to get a 19 ft-lb torque wrench on the passenger side bracket
Put the wheels back on and lower the truck so that the weight of the truck is on the tires before torquing the end links.
Some tighten the sway bar end links until they just start to bulge, and then back out the nuts 1/4 turn.

Other DIYs:
How to: Replace A Sway Bar Link on 3rd Gen 4Runner - YotaTech Forums
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ever-during-sway-bar-bushing-replacement.html
Mertztr's Front Sway Bar/End Link Bushing Replacement 3rd Gen 4Runner
J.A.'s 1999 Toyota 4Runner Highlander - Additions and Modifications
Toyota 4Runner Handling Modifications Sway Bars Energy Suspensions

HOW TO replace sway bar bushings 1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qf-M-wMrWqk

3rd Gen Toyota 4Runner Steering Rack and Front Sway Bar Bushing Replacement tutorial
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YywcR0E9bM4

 

[mtbtim]

@foo you're missing a couple torque specs we mention in the video. The upper bolt on the steering rack that is perpendicular to the ground is torqued to 123 ft lbf. The long bolt is torqued to 141 ft lbf.

You also didn't mention the Energy Suspension Steering Rack Bushing Kit #8.10103R - The R means Red. You can get black ones too.

 

[foo]

@foo you're missing a couple torque specs we mention in the video. The upper bolt on the steering rack that is perpendicular to the ground is torqued to 123 ft lbf. The long bolt is torqued to 141 ft lbf.

You also didn't mention the Energy Suspension Steering Rack Bushing Kit #8.10103R - The R means Red. You can get black ones too.

Thanks for catching the omissions.

I'm mostly interested in the (anti) sway bar & endlink bushings because that's what I need.

After talking to both Domenic at Prothane and Dave at Energy Suspension, I'm more confused than ever about sizes because both seemed to be hearing about the mismatched size problem for the first time (which can't possibly be the case).

Prothane #18-1115 kit: 888-776-8426 (the problem is apparently the endlink bushing size is apparently 5.5mm too large at 0.6 inches)
Energy Suspensions 8.5118{R,G} kit: 888-913-6374 (the problem is apparently the swaybar body bushing size is apparently 1mm too large at 27mm)

I measured the midpoint of my sway bar & endlink rods with calipers to be:
1. 1.042 inches (roughly 26.5mm) for the sway bar
2. 0.395 inches (roughly 10.0mm) for the endlink rods

Since Domenic suggested that the bushings should have a preload of 20 thousandths of an inch (i.e., they should be roughly 0.5mm smaller than the metal rod they surround), the actual ID of the bushings "should" be:
1. roughly 1.022 inches (26.0mm) for the sway bar body bushing
2.roughly 0.375 inches (3/8-inch, or 9.5mm) for the endlink bar bushings.

I'm not yet sure what the actual diameters are for the respective bushings, but I can now tell why people are forced to buy BOTH kits, just to get a decently fitting set of swaybar body & endlink bushings!

If we assume the bushing is 20 thousandths smaller than the measured steel rod diameter, then:
a. The Prothane 26mm bushing should be something like 1.024 inches - 0.020 = 1.004 inches
b. The Energy Suspension 27mm bushing should be something like 1.063 inches - 0.020 = 1.043 inches

There is a lot more detail in this recent thread:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...er-part-under-my-4runner-makes-noise-now.html

 

[JJ300K]

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION], outstanding video! Have a 1998 Limited with 184K. How do you check to see if you have steering rack free play? When I changed the OTREs, LBJs, and sway bar end links, rack bushings looked okay (no flange cracks etc). Just received OEM ITREs (from Amayama Trading thanks to this forum) and trying to decide if I should change the steering rack bushings at the same time.

 

[mtbtim]

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION], outstanding video! Have a 1998 Limited with 184K. How do you check to see if you have steering rack free play? When I changed the OTREs, LBJs, and sway bar end links, rack bushings looked okay (no flange cracks etc). Just received OEM ITREs (from Amayama Trading thanks to this forum) and trying to decide if I should change the steering rack bushings at the same time.

To check the bushing play, you'll need someone to help you. While you're looking under the rig at the steering rack (in between the tires and looking toward the front of the truck), have someone start the vehicle and turn the wheel back and forth to the left and right. I think with the OEM rubber bushings, you'll see a tiny bit of side to side movement of the steering rack. [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] truck had big time excessive play, at least 1/4" in each direction. His bushings were wasted and deteriorated. On my truck, my OEM bushings were still intact and in good shape. But, even with my bushings in good shape, I did experience improved steering response with the polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension.

 

[poleclimber63]

good!

I did the ES kit too and sway bar bushings. I just replaced the end links. I was trying to reduce the "slop" and later replaced the rack guide. Last Summer I also replaced my LBJ's, OTRE's as they clearly were in need of attention. The thing that I found made the biggest difference was the rack bushings and rack guide. I would like to do the steering shaft mod in the future as I can just feel a slight bump when I turn the wheel. However, I don't relish taking the steering column apart!
You're only as young as you feel! I'm 52 and loving my renewed interest in wrenching. I did an engine replacement in 2014 and dropped the suspension on my son's Eclipse a few weeks ago! I finally have the tools I wish I had when I was 20! I think my 3 (18 to 23)kids appreciate I'm keeping their cars on the road! I have to admit I'm enjoying it! The only bummer is the eye sight! This year I may have to break down and get glasses, otherwise, it's just about working smarter! As far as retirement is concerned, I could go at 55, but I plan on 60, then I'm going to take on some fun projects!

 

[JJ300K]

Thanks for the feedback (@mtbtim too). I'm going to order the ES kit and get it done. Following in your wake when it comes to kids, trucks, and retirement.....

 

[foo]

Thanks for the feedback (@mtbtim too). I'm going to order the ES kit and get it done. Following in your wake when it comes to kids, trucks, and retirement.....

Be careful.
I read every thread I could find on this topic and I have realized that of every single post made on this topic, only ONE post has the correct one-kit answer (although many have a two-kit compromise solution).

So, be advised that the two most common kits recommended on this forum are BOTH WRONG for your Toyota, as far as I can tell.

I don't understand how come people let this go for so long (since 2013 at least) without getting the right answer, but Mountain-Bike-Tim was on the right track in working with Prothane to get them to fix their kits (and others apparently worked with Energy Suspensions, who has recently issued a new kit for our Toyotas that almost nobody knew about - not even the Energy Suspensions technical support people - until this morning).

At the moment, we have found the RIGHT kit (two of them, in fact), but the kits you'll see all over the place recommended here are BOTH WRONG!

For example, Prothane still doesn't seem to realize they're shipping the wrong parts out, despite multiple people telling them so.

Please work with us to MEASURE your sway bar and endlink diameters BEFORE you order the CORRECT KIT.
1. Please measure your sway bar diameter at the midpoint under the body (or at any point that is convenient to you to access)
2. Please measure your endlink bar diameter at the midpoint with the wheel turned full stop (or at any point that is convenient for you to access)

Please put that information in this thread so that we have all the relevant information in one spot for the next person to benefit from.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...er-part-under-my-4runner-makes-noise-now.html

 

[csp]

People have let it go because it's not as big of a deal as you're making it out to be.

A sway bar bushing doesn't absolutely require an exact fit to do its job. It isn't a critical part and 1mm of difference isn't going to create a safety issue or prevent an installation.

Not to say you're wrong to bring it up, but the big text and posting in every sway bar thread on this site is a bit over the top. Up until a few days ago you didn't know what a sway bar was and now you're treating this as if it's a critical main bearing clearance problem in the bottom end of an engine.

 

[foo]

People have let it go because it's not as big of a deal as you're making it out to be.

I do agree with you that it's not a big deal.
However ... Notice my sig.

I like to UNDERSTAND what it is that I'm working on.
And I"m TRYING TO HELP YOU choose the right part!

So is the OP working, together, with me, to solve this problem for everyone.

If you want to FIGHT us on both those points of choosing the right part and trying to help you - that's fine - but that's your issue - not ours.

You may not care to do the job right; but we do.
You may not care to get the right parts; but we do.
You may not care that ANYONE ELSE gets the right parts; but we do.

Since we like to do the job right, we know that putting the wrong-sized bushings on is not doing the job right.

And, I, for one, think the current most-suggested solution of buying two kits just to get the right size is crazy when you can just buy the right kit (if you only knew that it existed).

But what's worse is that it seems that most people don't know what we know.
So, that would mean that most people don't even REALIZE they're putting the wrong parts on.
But they're not the ones who write on the forum, so we can never help them.

However, the OP of this thread is different.
He not only realized the parts are wrong - he tried to fix the problem for everyone.
And he asked us to help him fix the problem for everyone.

And I respect that.
There are VERY FEW PEOPLE like the OP of this thread though.

A sway bar bushing doesn't absolutely require an exact fit to do its job.

I realize that.
Did you read my thread?

I reported that the Prothane tech support said, essentially, the same thing.

However, preload is there for a reason, and there is no way the preload is the same for parts that fit versus parts that don't fit, especially for the swaybar body bushing which doesn't have a length preload like the endlink bushings do.

It isn't a critical part and 1mm of difference isn't going to create a safety issue or prevent an installation.

Wow. I can't believe you think that way.
I was trying to help you; but you may be beyond help if that's how you think.

Look. You may think that nothing on earth matters, and, in the end, that's true. Four billion years from now the earth is gonna boil away, unless an asteroid hits it first or a gamma ray burst gets our entire galaxy in one fell swoop.

But, if we work backward from there, little things eventually start to matter.

I mean, at the larger scheme of things, a FENDER doesn't matter. A windshield doesn't matter. A roof doesn't matter. A spare tire doesn't matter. Wheel weights don't matter.

But, when you get down to the little things, all these things that 'don't matter' start to add up.

For example, I can't count the number of times I've seen a mechanic skip putting back a few bolts or screws saying "it doesn't matter". Why do you think Toyota put those screws in there in the first place if "it didn't matter"?

How many times have I seen a wrench monkey torque all the bolts on wheels lugs to 100 foot pounds irrespective of the manufacturers' torque specs? If you ask them, they say "it doesn't matter". But why on earth does Toyota provide torque specs in the first place if it doesn't matter?

So, while I agree with you that the preload on the bushings doesn't matter" all that much from a safety issue, ask the OP himself what he thinks of putting the wrong-sized bushings on his vehicle if you really think it doesn't matter.

In fact, you might not think the preload difference from putting a 27mm bushing in a 26mm bracket matters, but there's a REASON that the factory specifies certain things, and why the heck shouldn't we strive to do things RIGHT in the first place?

If it doesn't matter, why do we bother doing anything the right way?

Not to say you're wrong to bring it up, but the big text and posting in every sway bar thread on this site is a bit over the top.

I understand your purely emotional objection to the format of my post.

I am trying to let people (like you) know what the solution is.
I'm working WITH the OP on this (and I think the OP understands that).
We're working TOGETHER to solve the problem for EVERYONE.

Whether you choose to get upset about my font choice and then lose the benefit from our joint effort to help you is your business.

 

[csp]

Just glanced through your response since I really don't care that much. I'm not trying to fight you. I gave you my opinion that you're a bit over the top with this. Obviously you read waaaayyyy too much into that.

Funny that you think I'm beyond helping because I find that a 1mm difference in a swaybar bushing isn't that critical. It shows to me how little you really know, especially with the mention of preload. Just so you have some perspective, I have over 35years of automotive experience. I didn't sleep in a Holiday Inn last night and did know what a swaybar was and how they work longer than a week.

Keep in mind that I don't find what you're doing is wrong. You're just a little out of touch with the importance of the differences you're finding.