Steering Rack Replacement

[b_w.]

Hi guys,

I believe my steering rack has bit the dust on my 13 SR5. 3/4 way through my road trip it started spewing fluid out the passenger side inner tie rod. The pump is also dripping some but I have not confirmed if it is just a loose hose or a seal has blown. Based on my quick research it doesn't sound like a rebuild kit is a available.

The dealer wants about $1,100 CDN for the oem part whereas Rock Auto sells remaned units for $363 CDN. Tried the search feature and cant find much on steering rack failures. Any thoughts on OEM vs. the A-1 Cardone units Rock Auto has?

The truck has about 78,000 KM or roughly 47,000 miles. Been wheeled since 2,500 KM and has had full Metal Tech suspension since 10,000 KM and is riding on 285 Duratracs. This is the first failure that has not been self induced.

The pump and/or rack makes noise during any low speed (ie parking lot) but doesnt spew fluid unless I go to full lock.

What are your thoughts?

 

[b_w.]

Pics of the carnage.

 

[Hbryanlopez]

Would this be covered under warranty?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jono.ful]

Would this be covered under warranty?

Dealer had an easy out on the warranty given the aftermarket suspension and up sized tires. The local club here (of which b.w and I are both members) has a good relationship with our dealer, but even still I can't see a warranty claim being successful

 

[WhiskeyMikeTango]

Either way the part is covered under basic warranty 3/36. You could always go in and ask for assistance with the repair. The dealer would have to prove that your mods caused the failure. They can't decline coverage because something is modded.

Thats the route I would go. Go to your preferred dealer. Pay the diag fee. After diag ask for repair assistance. If they don't offer assistance call toyota consumer affairs and ask for assistance. If you play your cards right and are nice and professional they will cover the repair.

 

[Bourbonator]

The dealer would have to prove that your mods caused the failure. They can't decline coverage because something is modded.

Does Canada have a law similar to our Magnuson-Moss?

 

[1engineer]

Hi guys,

I believe my steering rack has bit the dust on my 13 SR5. 3/4 way through my road trip it started spewing fluid out the passenger side inner tie rod. The pump is also dripping some but I have not confirmed if it is just a loose hose or a seal has blown. Based on my quick research it doesn't sound like a rebuild kit is a available.

The dealer wants about $1,100 CDN for the oem part whereas Rock Auto sells remaned units for $363 CDN. Tried the search feature and cant find much on steering rack failures. Any thoughts on OEM vs. the A-1 Cardone units Rock Auto has?

The truck has about 78,000 KM or roughly 47,000 miles. Been wheeled since 2,500 KM and has had full Metal Tech suspension since 10,000 KM and is riding on 285 Duratracs. This is the first failure that has not been self induced.

The pump and/or rack makes noise during any low speed (ie parking lot) but doesnt spew fluid unless I go to full lock.

What are your thoughts?

Here you go.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/160233-steering-rack.html

 

[Simpleman74]

The dealer would have to prove that your mods caused the failure. They can't decline coverage because something is modded.

OP is in Canada

 

[b_w.]

Warranty is 3 year and 60,000 km bumper to bumper + 100,000 km power train. I do not believe power steering is power train.

I am just going to bite the bullet and order a new rack and pump rebuild kit. Wish there were some documented diy replacements of this. FSM calls for the engine to be removed which seems stupid.

 

[1engineer]

Warranty is 3 year and 60,000 km bumper to bumper + 100,000 km power train. I do not believe power steering is power train.

I am just going to bite the bullet and order a new rack and pump rebuild kit. Wish there were some documented diy replacements of this. FSM calls for the engine to be removed which seems stupid.

Did you not read the link I provided you two posts up? ??

 

[b_w.]

Did you not read the link I provided you two posts up? ??

I did. Thank you for the link. The rack is leaking badly where the inner tie rod attaches on the passenger side. Pump is also dripping. I had the wife turn full lock to lock while I watched from underneath. Over a few full turns the reservoir drops and there is substantial fluid pooling, particularly on full passenger.

 

[1engineer]

I did. Thank you for the link. The rack is leaking badly where the inner tie rod attaches on the passenger side. Pump is also dripping. I had the wife turn full lock to lock while I watched from underneath. Over a few full turns the reservoir drops and there is substantial fluid pooling, particularly on full passenger.

Why you have to lift up the engine is why.

 

[b_w.]

I am wondering if it can be lifted enough by loosening the engine mount bolts and jacking under the oil pan with a piece of wood to spread out the load. Maybe loosen the tranny cross brace a bit too so it can sag slightly at the back.

 

[wfo9]

Warranty is 3 year and 60,000 km bumper to bumper + 100,000 km power train. I do not believe power steering is power train.

I am just going to bite the bullet and order a new rack and pump rebuild kit. Wish there were some documented diy replacements of this. FSM calls for the engine to be removed which seems stupid.

2010*Toyota*4 Runner*Power Steering Rack from Carsteering

Don't know the quality....


Search around FJ forums... Plenty of people have replaced the rack and have posted info on how to....

 

[Highwaystreets]

Hope everything works out for you..... Off topic but I just signed up for your Toyota club!

 

[wfo9]

This thread should work for you.
Looks like he just pulled the front diff.

Steering Rack Replacement - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

 

[b_w.]

Thanks. Will take a read through.

 

[b_w.]

ended up getting an new rack from the dealer as well as rebuilding the power steering pump. finally started working on the rack this weekend and it is a major pain.

taking everything apart was pretty easy and used the sawzall to cut the rack bolts off. I also have new bolts and will install them from the bottom with lock tite. the fsm calls for the engine to be removed to do this and the dealer says it is a 14 hour job. the main issue is the oil filter assembly and AC lines sit right in front of the rack and there is not way for it to squeeze past them.

I placed my tranny jack under the tcase after I removed the skid plates. Managed to break off one of the captured nuts for the mid skid which added some difficulty. Before I started I could tell I wouldnt be able to lower the tcase much before things started hitting the frame. I have read a few places about guys dropping the cross member to provide clearance but mostly on FJC's. Not sure if there is much of a difference but this didnt provide me enough room to pull the rack any further.

After contemplating and cursing I am next going to pull the the front diff which should give me all the room in the world to get the rack out. Axles and driveshaft will only take about 20 min and then it is just one or two sensors and a handful of bolts. With the diff out it will also make it much easier to get all the lines and steering back in. If this doesnt work I am going to light it on fire, fill it with tannerite and claim insurance :AK47::smash: