Steering was tight...

ASUMTNEER

New member
I found out why Friday morning. Luckily we were 50yrds from the house and were going 3-5mph when the ball joint failed. Nothing damaged and nobody hurt. I got it towed back into he garage and replaced both ball joints last night. I wanted to post this just in case anyone was searching for a reason as to why their steering was getting considerably tighter and their steering wheel was getting difficult to turn. I just bought the truck and the PO said he thought the rack was going out, so that's where my mind automatically went to. Hope this saves someone down the road.
 

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Lucky - Lucky!

Guessing you used OEM Toyo parts?

How many miles and what MY is it? :cowboy:

I actually went with the MOOG parts. Install went great and quality seemed great. Torqued everything to spec so I don't foresee any issues, but I am going to keep a close eye on them. Feels like a totally different car now when steering.

It's a 98 with 235k
 
I actually went with the MOOG parts. Install went great and quality seemed great. Torqued everything to spec so I don't foresee any issues, but I am going to keep a close eye on them. Feels like a totally different car now when steering.

It's a 98 with 235k

Hee, hee, hee. I just replaced my MOOG LBJs with OEMs because they were crap and lasted only about 25k miles.:lmao:
 
I know they are already replaced, but it's extremely recommended to use ONLY OEM on the LBJs.

Obviously no guarantee, but almost everyone (on this forum at least) with aftermarket LBJs replaces them again soon, either due to extreme play in the joint when jacked up, or due to them failing AGAIN within only a few thousand miles.
 
I know they are already replaced, but it's extremely recommended to use ONLY OEM on the LBJs.

Obviously no guarantee, but almost everyone (on this forum at least) with aftermarket LBJs replaces them again soon, either due to extreme play in the joint when jacked up, or due to them failing AGAIN within only a few thousand miles.

I understand, and if I could have waited for OEM parts to ship to me, then I may have gone that route. I had to get it fixed this weekend and wasn't going to pay the local dealer the $160 they wanted for each. I'll keep a close eye on them.
 
I know they are already replaced, but it's extremely recommended to use ONLY OEM on the LBJs.

Obviously no guarantee, but almost everyone (on this forum at least) with aftermarket LBJs replaces them again soon, either due to extreme play in the joint when jacked up, or due to them failing AGAIN within only a few thousand miles.

I put moog ball joints on my T4R probably about 40k miles ago. I'm swapping to OEM ball joints since I never greased them (and I'm not sure if you can or not) and I'll see how they've held up before I pull them out. Probably will send them to rock auto and get them replaced for free and keep them as a backup or something.
 
Thanks for adding the tip about the stiff steering. I don't think anyone with a failing joint has mentioned that before.
 
We all know these are just waiting to fail, so I'm thankful yours wasn't in a dangerous situation. It's also interesting that there wasn't any major force that caused it to come loose (speaking from experience). I knew mine needed to be replaced when I purchased it (due to the loud clicking when turning). Was saving up the money and time when I hit a pretty legit bump in the road from construction at about 30mph and just destroyed the joint and axle and rods etc.
Ended up replacing all of the ball joints in the front, tie rods, and cv joints.
And for those interested, I took it to the state (Illinois) to file a claim and the construction company denied the claim. Fun times.
 

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Thanks for adding the tip about the stiff steering. I don't think anyone with a failing joint has mentioned that before.

When it came apart I noticed the ball and the socket were both bone dry. That ball had been spinning metal-on-metal in that socket causing the steering to be labored.
 
I think you know you were exceptionally lucky to have the joint fail at low speed and so close to home.

I had the rear axle seals done at a local shop a week and a half ago and they told me they found a bit of play in my LBJs so I ordered OEM ones the next day.

Install went great yesterday, however my camber is now (quite) positive and I was under the impression that I wouldn't need an alignment after new LBJs.

The old LBJs had zero play when I got them off the truck.. still better safe than sorry I guess.
 
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The old LBJs had zero play when I got them off the truck...

Isn't the only valid test on ball joints when on the vehicle with some weight applied, meaning you lift the vehicle just enough to apply pressure underneath with another object thereby simulating loads? Off the vehicle it would appear very tight when not on the vehicle is my experience.

Perhaps another tidbit to validate for all of us. Yet, my mechanic buddy uses this technique and it seems to root out good vs. not so good. Luck and enjoy those Runners. :cowboy:
 

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