Steering wheel vibration Poll

Have/had steering wheel vibration?


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Checking in on this thread in hopes this can help someone with more info.

I've not yet come to a solution, but hear me out. I think the shop I'm working with is on the right path and I will know more soon.

2019 ORP, TRD wheels. Kind coils in the front and Icon UCAs. Tires are 285 BFGs.

Shook a little brand new off the lot. Dealer said tires were never balanced. This solved the issue at the time.

Fast forward 20k miles and I get a lift and BFG KO2s. Slight shimmy, but Discount Tire fixed it. 5k miles later I go to rotate and it's a mess of a shimmy, so I go back and I'm told that one tire is asking for 15 oz of weight, so there's an issue. I swap it with an identical tire (my spare) and the shimmy is still there, but much less.

After a couple of attempts, they are trying using "smart weight" setting set to off on the Hunter machine, along with the Haweka plats. The interesting thing about "smart weight" setting, is that there are at least 2-3 reports I was able to found on the internet of Toyota using that exact procedure to get rid of the vibe issues on some Lexus 460 models. The tech told me that the total weight didn't really change doing this, but the position of them changed slightly.

Picking up the truck here in the next hour or so and we will see. I was able to be vibe-free for most of the 26k miles I've got on this truck, so I'm confident it's a tire/wheel issue.

Also, I did notice that weather affects the tires. If they sit a few days, they vibe a little until warm. Also when very cold out, they will vibe for a few miles and then smooth out. The vibe I'm referring to is the same one that many are dealing with, showing itself around 58-60 MPH or so.
 
Re-balancing tires solved my vibration problem. It must be balanced on a "Road Force" machine. I tried several shops until I finally found one that could do it correctly and eliminate the shake.
 
I fixed mine by ditching the KO2s. Didn't realize that they were the direct cause of my problem until I tried something different.
 
im only getting vibrations around 30-50mph at 60mph, its smooth. this happened after doing a mild lift, new uca's, and 285 wildpeaks. going to try and get it road forced balance this weekend to hopefully fix the issue.
 
Ok, so I need some help.

I have a 2019 4Runner SR5P with 2” Icon Suspension, 17” SEMA rims and I just put on a new set of Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 275/70R17 C 114S.
Before I changed out the tires from Nitto Ridge Grappler 265/70R17 C 109Q’s, I had a hum that would start around 40mph up to 50mph. The hum was not associated with an out of balance (that I know of) or out of round tire, since I still get it with the new ones. The hum pulsates roughly once a second and is slow, if that makes sense. With the new tire, braking at 40+mph does increase the hum, but is not felt in the pedal, but is felt through the vehicle and steering wheel. The brakes have been check and are not warped. With both the old and new tires I get a noticeable shake in the steering wheel at around 60mph, and a more consistent hum that I think could be associated with the fact that the tires are new and are AT’s. I’m more concerned with the shake of the steering wheel over the amount of road noise.

My thinking is it could be an alignment issue (hopefully) or a bad wheel bearing. It being a “2” year old vehicle I’d hope it wasn’t a bearing.
I’m not using wheel spacers. My last shop visit I had the Toyota mechanics retighten to spec all the suspension hardware. The SEMA rims are also Toyota spec. I have not other major mods beyond a K&N intake (OEM intake box).

Thank you in advance for you thoughts.
 
I have had great success fixing vibrations by jacking the 4r up, loosening the lug nuts, centering the wheel on the studs, tighten the lug nuts with my fingers while slowly rotating the tire and wheel (slow rotation seems to keep wheel centered), then following a torque pattern tighten lug nuts to 50 ft-lbs, and then tighten to final installation torque value. The only times this has not worked is following an alignment when the mechanic didn't tighten things up and when I lost a wheel weight. EVERY time someone other than me pulls a wheel off, I get the vibrations. I firmly believe a lot of the shake comes from jamming the wheels back on with impact guns. I no longer have the dealer or Discount Tire rotate my tires. I do it myself.

FYI- I have KO2s on oem trail wheels, 5100s set at 1.75 front, T13 springs in the rear (1.25 effective rear lift).
 
Another +1 for tire balancing, and that is coming from a skeptic.

I had pretty significant vibration at about 65mph after adding new Cooper ATPs in stock size. I had 4 different shops try to balance them. I was convinced that my 4runner had some other steering issue. Last week I had to give someone a ride down to the Discount Tire and thought “why not while I’m here?” They needed to be rotated anyway.

No idea what they did differently, but now it runs smooth as glass. This is a brand new DT, and they weren’t busy at all, so maybe that helped.

2016 TEP
70k
Stock suspension
 
I've got this issue as well. There was slight vibration between 55 to 60 with stock wheels/tires on my 20 Limited. It was amplified after upgrading to 20x9 Fuel wheels with 275/55 Pirelli Scorpion AT+. I've never had issues with Pirelli car tires, but maybe they don't have truck tires down yet. I've always runs BFG-AT's in the past on my trucks and never had issues. I didn't get those because they only came in load E in this size. Size roughly maintains overall same height as stock wheel/tire combo.

Had them re-balanced with road force from a custom shop. Still there afterward. Explained the issue, they thought it might be new tire runout, or just not great tires. I've not put enough miles on them to have the balanced again, but almost there in another 500 miles to see if it helps.

A few things I've picked up from this thread:
1) Tire pressure, I'll try that as I know these are 34F/32R. If increase pressure helps, I'll take that as a fix.
2) The torquing of the lub nuts. I initially had normal lugs on, but they were very tight (VERY) with the 21mm socket getting them on off. I replaced them with spine drive. Afterward the shake was worse at same speed. Will try remounting with slow turn and torquing. I've never had issues with how I mounted wheels in the past though, but again worth a shot.
3) The steering rack. Truck has less than 5K miles on it now, and I will take the TSB and info to Toyota when I take in for the 5K maintenance.

It's nuts that a 50K truck has unresolved issues the mfg won't fully support a fix for.
 
I’ve got the same issue many have reported as well, on a 2021 ORP with less than 500 miles on it. Steering wheel shimmy from 56-62 or so, and it varies depending on several factors, none of which I’m convinced I understand. Sometimes it is quite bad, sometimes it’s barely noticeable, and sometimes it’s non-existent. On my drive home today, I took off from a stop, turned right and accelerated to 60 with 0 shimmy. Came up to a stop light less than a half mile later, stopped fully, then started back up to 60 again, this time with very noticeable shimmy. No change in the road.

I did switch the tires on it early on, to the new Cooper Rugged Trek in XL load, stock size. Unfortunately my drive home in stock tires was pretty much all highway, so I didn’t really test for shimmy with the stock Bridgestone’s (and wasn’t expecting or knowing to look for that at the time, either). Everything else is stock.

I’ve had my wheels balanced twice, with the last one having quite good road force numbers (low teens, and lower). I’m almost thinking some of these intermittent/variable issues are something non-tire or wheel related. I’ve seen a few people mention lower control arms... I’m going to the dealer this weekend to have an alignment done and will mention this to them. Will report back. It’s extremely disappointing to have to worry about this stuff in general, let alone on a brand new vehicle - a rugged one at that.
 
I’ve got the same issue many have reported as well, on a 2021 ORP with less than 500 miles on it. Steering wheel shimmy from 56-62 or so, and it varies depending on several factors, none of which I’m convinced I understand. Sometimes it is quite bad, sometimes it’s barely noticeable, and sometimes it’s non-existent. On my drive home today, I took off from a stop, turned right and accelerated to 60 with 0 shimmy. Came up to a stop light less than a half mile later, stopped fully, then started back up to 60 again, this time with very noticeable shimmy. No change in the road.

I did switch the tires on it early on, to the new Cooper Rugged Trek in XL load, stock size. Unfortunately my drive home in stock tires was pretty much all highway, so I didn’t really test for shimmy with the stock Bridgestone’s (and wasn’t expecting or knowing to look for that at the time, either). Everything else is stock.

I’ve had my wheels balanced twice, with the last one having quite good road force numbers (low teens, and lower). I’m almost thinking some of these intermittent/variable issues are something non-tire or wheel related. I’ve seen a few people mention lower control arms... I’m going to the dealer this weekend to have an alignment done and will mention this to them. Will report back. It’s extremely disappointing to have to worry about this stuff in general, let alone on a brand new vehicle - a rugged one at that.

Sorry to bump but just wanted to update for those that might find it useful. I had a new set of KO2’s put on today, and they balanced really well, however I still get the wheel shimmy around 55-62 or so. I have a hard time at this point believing it’s the tires but obviously can’t completely rule it out. I’m going to the dealer tomorrow and will update afterward.
 
Sorry to bump but just wanted to update for those that might find it useful. I had a new set of KO2’s put on today, and they balanced really well, however I still get the wheel shimmy around 55-62 or so. I have a hard time at this point believing it’s the tires but obviously can’t completely rule it out. I’m going to the dealer tomorrow and will update afterward.
It's the tire balance, it always is. I have close to 500k miles (around 70 tires) on this Toyota IFS platform and every single set of tires has taken many attempts to get all 4 balanced correctly. About 1 out of 8 tires has to be replaced for out of roundness.

This is certainly my biggest peeve of this platform, its sensitivity to tire balance.

Also, you will always have imbalance feeling from tire flat spotting while parked, so just ignore it until you get a good 15 miles at highway speed.
 
I put on a new set of wheels and tires this past December, and the installer rebalanced about six times, replacing a couple tires along the way, before asking me to choose a different tire. The one we tried next balanced out on the first try, and I'm now at ~15k without any issues.

The tires that would not balance out were Cooper AT3 and the tires that have worked perfectly are Firestone Destination ATs.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
My fix on my 2017 TRD PRO with 24K miles and after 2 set of tires, multiple wheel balances, and wheel alignments was ME rebuilding all 4 of my brake calipers. Smooth sailing for last 25k miles
 
Checking in on this thread in hopes this can help someone with more info.

I've not yet come to a solution, but hear me out. I think the shop I'm working with is on the right path and I will know more soon.

2019 ORP, TRD wheels. Kind coils in the front and Icon UCAs. Tires are 285 BFGs.

Shook a little brand new off the lot. Dealer said tires were never balanced. This solved the issue at the time.

Fast forward 20k miles and I get a lift and BFG KO2s. Slight shimmy, but Discount Tire fixed it. 5k miles later I go to rotate and it's a mess of a shimmy, so I go back and I'm told that one tire is asking for 15 oz of weight, so there's an issue. I swap it with an identical tire (my spare) and the shimmy is still there, but much less.

After a couple of attempts, they are trying using "smart weight" setting set to off on the Hunter machine, along with the Haweka plats. The interesting thing about "smart weight" setting, is that there are at least 2-3 reports I was able to found on the internet of Toyota using that exact procedure to get rid of the vibe issues on some Lexus 460 models. The tech told me that the total weight didn't really change doing this, but the position of them changed slightly.

Picking up the truck here in the next hour or so and we will see. I was able to be vibe-free for most of the 26k miles I've got on this truck, so I'm confident it's a tire/wheel issue.

Also, I did notice that weather affects the tires. If they sit a few days, they vibe a little until warm. Also when very cold out, they will vibe for a few miles and then smooth out. The vibe I'm referring to is the same one that many are dealing with, showing itself around 58-60 MPH or so.

Brake calipers pistons are sticking! Fix? Rebuild all 4 brake calipers. Good luck man
 
ive had my 33s balanced what seems like 10 times over the last two years or so. the most recent balance has been the best yet but its not perfect and the vibrations show up between 55-65 depending on the day/weather. I've noticed they tend to show up when there has been a significant temperature swing while my car is parked in a garage.

also every time i've brought up the haweka adapter, both dealers/independent shops have looked at me as if i have 3 heads.

Had same problem!! Brake calipers pistons sticking
 
My turn. My issue started a few weeks ago after a visit to the dealer for oil change and tire rotation. NOTE - i just purchased new KO2's/C a few months ago (no issues). On the drive back from the dealer i quickly noticed the wheel shaking at 60mph(+/-2). I figured it was an unbalanced tire and decided i would visit Discount Tire on the weekend to have it addressed. The weekend came and i went in for a balance. The tech said it wasn't that out of balance but again, i felt the shake on my way home. I tried to ignore it, but the road i was on was butter smooth and when i hit 58-60mph my left hand at 10 o'clock on the wheel started shaking and it was ridiculous.

Over the following weekends i went back to DT and they did the Road Force test to confirm the tires were good and balanced. For a second opinion I also made a visit to a little tire shop on the south side of town to get my hommies to check the balance. They said the tires were balanced, but one of the guys said i needed an alignment (crooked steering wheel).

The next week i went in for an alignment hoping it would magically fix the issue but of course, it didn't.

I also called my wheel company to inquire about "hub rings" but was reminded that my wheels were hub-centric so they didn't need rings.

After watching Youtube videos and reading this forum, there are still a couple of things i want to check. I read a post about "seized calipers" and since i had a brake job a few months ago, i will take the truck back to the dealer to have them verify that. Another idea is "cold" tires (but im Texas and its super hot). My wife drives the truck during the week and i only drive it on the weekends for short trips to Costco. So need to take a long drive just to confirm the tires are nice and hot when it happens.

In conclusion
  • shaking started after tire rotation - continues after reversing the rotation
  • I have hub centric wheels (-6 offest)
  • I have new KO2/C
  • Recent front/rear brake job
  • All tires are Road force balanced
  • Alignment done
  • Shaking occurs at 58-62 mph (@gradual acceleration)
  • Shaking does not occur when braking

Should i consider suspension components next?

Sometimes i wonder if the dealer sabotages my vehicle to get me to go back for more service - so frustrating!:redbrick:
I had same problem! sticking brake caliper pistons...rebuilt all 4 them and problem solved.
 
I guess I got the same luck as soooo many others. 2020 4runner with new method 701s and 265 wild peaks. I got the wobbles from 50mph and up. The car was bought new late last year and only has 18k miles. 2 wheel balances and nothing. Going to do an alignment. If none of these work, I can’t image how I’d have to start fixing brake calipers and needle bearings and worth on a new car. it’s a brand new’ish car!This is seriously so disappointing.
 
It's the tire balance, it always is. I have close to 500k miles (around 70 tires) on this Toyota IFS platform and every single set of tires has taken many attempts to get all 4 balanced correctly. About 1 out of 8 tires has to be replaced for out of roundness.

This is certainly my biggest peeve of this platform, its sensitivity to tire balance.

Also, you will always have imbalance feeling from tire flat spotting while parked, so just ignore it until you get a good 15 miles at highway speed.


I keep hearing of this occurring at the first change of tires or later. How is Toyota getting such prime stock of tires for the assembly line?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I keep hearing of this occurring at the first change of tires or later. How is Toyota getting such prime stock of tires for the assembly line?
I'm not sure about at the factory, but at tire shops, most of the time they will put the best 2 tires in front when you buy new ones, so you don't notice the poorly balanced rear(s) until the first rotation. Many times, if you come back for balancing issues that weren't there before a rotation, they will rotate the tires again to make the problem go away, at least until the next rotation.

I have my wheels numbered and keep of track of where they are, mainly because of this. I also rotate my tires within a few days of buying new ones.
 
I’m not getting any highway shaking at all, but I need to get some more positive caster in my alignment than factory spec.

Took it to the beach today and there’s a transition between pavement and sand of mostly, well, broken pavement and potholes.

NEVER HAVE I EVER had so much steering wheel deflection navigating this stretch in another vehicle. Not crapping on Toyota, I’m sure it’s just the current setting but DAYUM it was jiggly!


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