Stripped Tcase Fill Plug

[joshik]

I fill my tcase every 6-8 weeks due to the tcase leak issue. My tcase plug is starting to get rounded over and this time around my 24mm won't bite. I tried another 24mm too. I should have replaced the plug a while back

You think one of these would work on getting it out?

 

[aemravan]

It could be worth a try.. if you don't have quick access to a welder to quickly tack a good nut to it just to break it loose it certainly could be a good starting point.

 

[AuSeeker]

I fill my tcase every 6-8 weeks due to the tcase leak issue. My tcase plug is starting to get rounded over and this time around my 24mm won't bite. I tried another 24mm too. I should have replaced the plug a while back

You think one of these would work on getting it out?

Those bolt removers would probably work...IF you can get one the correct size, from the photo none of those in that set appear to be big enough.

I found a set that has a 24mm....but it would be nice if they sold these separately, not sure if you would ever use any of the other 4 sizes, $40 just to get the one size you need is pricey or the smaller sizes sets would go up a few sizes.

Amazon.com: Topec 5-Piece Heavy Duty Nut Bolt Remover set, 1/2” Drive Impact Extractor Set, Perfect Tool Kit for Removing Stripped, Damaged, Rounded off and Rusted Bolts & Nuts, and Shorter Profile Lug Nuts : Tools & Home Improvement

Edit: found another set for the same price but has more pieces.

Amazon.com: TOPEC 9PCS Bolt Nut Extractor Set, Lug Nut Remover Socket Tool, 1/2" Drive Impact, Wheel Lock Removal Kit for Removing Damaged, Dead, Rusted, Rounded-Off Bolts, Nuts & Screws : Tools & Home Improvement

 

[y=mx+b]

are you using a 6 pointed socket? From the factory, these plugs have rounded corners so a 12 point will never grip it right

pipe wrench is another option

 

[BostonJon]

Isn’t the t case aluminum? If so, might make welding more challenging.

I had a similar issue with a diff fill plug and ultimately used a dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut a slot into the plug and then used a chisel and a hammer to spin the nut.

 

[Asylvester]

Same thing happened to me with the tranny fill bolt. I used a 15/16 socket for a tighter fit. Worked great!

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Isn’t the t case aluminum? If so, might make welding more challenging.

I had a similar issue with a diff fill plug and ultimately used a dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut a slot into the plug and then used a chisel and a hammer to spin the nut.

Should make it easier I would think, less likely the plug will spot weld itself to the case when you tack weld an old wrench or bar of metal to it?

Make sure you really inspect the threads and bung on the transfer case, I have seen the bungs on the back transfer case cover get cracked and damaged because guys either over tighten them, reuse the same washer for a long time, and/or the plug has been removed/reinstalled over and over.

The good news is that IF there is a hairline crack in the bung you can TIG weld it rather than replacing the cover if you have the skills/equipment. The bad news is that the best way to do it will be to pull the transfer case apart, thoroughly clean the cover, and then prep, weld, and re-cut the threads. You probably could do it on the car... but I don't think you'd get the best results (long-term).

 

[Jakeepoo3]

Should make it easier I would think, less likely the plug will spot weld itself to the case when you tack weld an old wrench or bar of metal to it?

Make sure you really inspect the threads and bung on the transfer case, I have seen the bungs on the back transfer case cover get cracked and damaged because guys either over tighten them, reuse the same washer for a long time, and/or the plug has been removed/reinstalled over and over.

The good news is that IF there is a hairline crack in the bung you can TIG weld it rather than replacing the cover if you have the skills/equipment. The bad news is that the best way to do it will be to pull the transfer case apart, thoroughly clean the cover, and then prep, weld, and re-cut the threads. You probably could do it on the car... but I don't think you'd get the best results (long-term).

Attach you ground lead to the wrench then tack her. *Don't overheat* this will definitely crack the aluminum and I highly doubt you have a high frequency a/c tig welder. One of the more advanced welding processes.

 

[Jakeepoo3]

*Don't forget to unhook your battery*

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Attach you ground lead to the wrench then tack her. *Don't overheat* this will definitely crack the aluminum and I highly doubt you have a high frequency a/c tig welder. One of the more advanced welding processes.

I'm working on it okay! I have other things to spend money on right now. But I did add a 220v 50A circuit for eventually replacing my 110v lil MIG welder to a proper 220v MIG/TIG setup in the near future. Lol

Oh you meant the OP, derp.

 

[Jakeepoo3]

I'm working on it okay! I have other things to spend money on right now. But I did add a 220v 50A circuit for eventually replacing my 110v lil MIG welder to a proper 220v MIG/TIG setup in the near future. Lol

Oh you meant the OP, derp.

I run a Miller multimatic 200. 3 in 1. Mig/stick/tig. The only thing it won't do is high frequency a/c. Also it will run on 110v or 220v with plug adapter. I love it! Yeah I was talking about the guy with the issue but nice to see a fellow welder here