Stripped the bolts on the factory skid plate.... now what?

[audiness]

So I was changing the front differential fluid in my 4th gen 4x4 (v8), and when I went to put the factory skid plates back on (the ones that go under the motor) I forgot I had the torque turned way on my air wrench, and stipped out a couple of the bolts that hold the skid plates on. So, well now they just spin....
:sniper:
So the skid plates are on for the time being, but if/when i need to get them off again, I don't know how I will be able to. And 2 of the bolts that I stripped are in a recessed location, so I am really not sure what to do. Anybody have any tips for fixing this?

thanks in advance.

 

[spyne]

To take the skid plate off next time just pull down on it while you back off on the bolts. That should allow you to remove the skid plate.

Then you'll have to tap out the holes with a slightly larger diameter bolt size and use that same bolt size in the future when reinstalling the skid plate. If you don't have a tap and die set any decent repair shop should be able to do this for you. Just make sure they give you some bolts in the new size.

 

[audiness]

Thanks! Now that I think about it, that will probably work...

 

[Burt]

I had a simular situation happen to me. Went to pull the rear skid plate, but one bolt was seized, appeared to be crossthreaded. So I forced it and the head of bolt rounded! Those bolt were made of very soft metal. So out comes the drill. Driiled a small hole straight thru the bolt, and was able to twist out with my fingers. I ordered a set of stainless metric bolts when I put skid plate back on. One of those days, ya'know.

 

[KBToys]

just went through this a few weeks ago, stripped three bolts. I tried this and was able to get one of them out.

9 Piece 3/8" Metric Bolt Extractor Sockets

the other two I had to drill and re-tap. After getting new bolts I put a lot of anti seize on them

 

[Cubslover]

I need to do the same.

In my haste to get my lift on, I actually cut off a bracket that I had stripped the bolt on.

I will be having a custom skid welded up for me soon.

 

[J.A.]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/32297-skid-plate-bolts.html

 

[Border411]

your lucky! I broke the heads off of the 2 front bolts, which means I need to drill AND tap new holes!

 

[AKABlig]

Broken Bolt

One of the front bolts was sheared off when I purchased my runner. So I tried to get it out with an easyout, well it broke as well.

I ended up using a small chisel ( through the hanger slot) and broke the nut/bolt off, the nut has 2 spot welds holding it.

Then I ordered these from McMaster Carr.
McMaster-Carr

I got the same thread size as well as new Bolts. Install went pretty easily and now I make sure to put some anti seize on the bolts.

 

[Maritimer]

I had a simular situation happen to me. Went to pull the rear skid plate, but one bolt was seized, appeared to be crossthreaded. So I forced it and the head of bolt rounded! Those bolt were made of very soft metal. So out comes the drill. Driiled a small hole straight thru the bolt, and was able to twist out with my fingers. I ordered a set of stainless metric bolts when I put skid plate back on. One of those days, ya'know.

I'm curious on how easy this is. I have a rounded bolt head on my front plate, which means I can't get at my belts, etc.

 

[scottm]

So, well now they just spin....

From that description I'm going to guess you've stripped the threads off the bolt, not the weldnut in the frame, which is good. The threaded portion of the bolt that is above the weldnut is still threaded and not falling through the nut because the nut still has it's threads. You may be able to pull on the bolt head and get the remaining threads to engage to turn the bolt out, that's best case. Next possibility is to grind the head off, remove the skid plate, and grind the bolt flush with the nut, then push it up and out. Tough to do if the weld nut is up through a hole in the frame, but possible. Drilling it may cause it to turn through the threads also. If you get the bolt out there's a good chance you just need to put a new bolt in. I'd run a tap or thread chaser through the hole to make sure it's clean, but may be unnecessary.

For those who've rounded the heads, you can grind flats on it or cut a slot in it to turn it. Or use a prick-punch to push the edge of the head around. A very good idea is to whack that head with a hammer before starting, it often breaks the fastener loose. There are special sockets made for gripping rounded bolt heads, I've had good luck with them.

If the head is broken off there are left-handed drills that work well for drilling those out. EZ-Outs are an older system for drilling and turning, sometimes that works, I don't use mine much anymore.

There are various penetrating oils that work well, PB Blaster is my current favorite, a combo of solvents and penetrating oil. Can be hard on paint.

 

[Maritimer]

^^^^^^
Wealth of information in above post! :bravo:

 

[Kmvreter]

Any secret or technique to actually drilling the bolt out. I snapped one trying to get the skid off. Tried drilling but got nowhere. I'll get the PB Blaster but is there a particular type of bit, drill speed, cutting fluid, etc..?

 

[MikesToy]

I broke off all of my bolt heads b/c i was excited and in a hurry. Anywayz, i took it to a welding shop and they got the rest of the bolt outta there. But they had to re-tread the holes for a slightly bigger bolt so it'd be easier to take off next time.

 

[scottm]

Any secret or technique to actually drilling the bolt out. I snapped one trying to get the skid off. Tried drilling but got nowhere. I'll get the PB Blaster but is there a particular type of bit, drill speed, cutting fluid, etc..?

Bolts are a little harder than common mild steel, you need to start with a good, sharp drill bit. If the bolt is jagged it will be hard to start your hole, might need to grind a flat on it. A center-punch is good for making a dent that your drill bit will follow. Keep a bit of lube on the drill and metal, any oil is good, that will keep the drill bit cutting instead of scraping and dulling. It's usually good to start with a small drill then follow that hole with a larger drill, but this isn't a very big bolt.

 

[Kmvreter]

Bolts are a little harder than common mild steel, you need to start with a good, sharp drill bit. If the bolt is jagged it will be hard to start your hole, might need to grind a flat on it. A center-punch is good for making a dent that your drill bit will follow. Keep a bit of lube on the drill and metal, any oil is good, that will keep the drill bit cutting instead of scraping and dulling. It's usually good to start with a small drill then follow that hole with a larger drill, but this isn't a very big bolt.

Thanks for the reply.
Time for some new bits. Thanks for jogging my memory about the center-punch.

 

[VTSR5]

Take it easy with the center punch. I was overzealous and broke the captured weld nut free. The stock bolt material is pretty mild, I have discovered. Next time I'll just eyeball it and center drill it with a small bit instead of center punching.

 

[GupsT4R]

i just used a set of left handed drill bits and whatever didn't grab and turn out, it drilled thru and extracted. Chased with a tap then anti-seize every time i touch them after that.

 

[Derekv]

For the skid plate, I drilled and re-tapped for M10 and for one, used a rivetnut. Worked great.

Derek V