Strippted Front Diff Drain Plug Removal Tips (aka: what not to do)

[weekendclimber]

So, after draining the rear diff and the transfer case and refilling it came time to do the front diff.

Flashback: I had the diffs drained and refilled a previous time at a place that managed to eff it up by not torquing the filler plug all the way done (not to mention not using a new crush washer that I had given them). At the time, I put a new crush washer on and cursed them for having to clean gear oil off the skids. Didn't even think at the time of checking the drain plug, because there wasn't anything leaking from it.

Fast forward to today: The drain plug is either cross-threaded and stripped, or at the very least just stripped. What a PITA! Anyway, after successfully stripping it more, I get the dremel out. Cut a notch, get a chisel and hammer and start whacking away. Not even a bit of a budge.





Well, this is why they make screw extraction kits. So, I pull the screw extraction kit out along with the drill. Get into it and start the extractor. Seems to be biting pretty good until:





No idea what to do now. The diff isn't leaking or anything, I just wanted to replace the stripped drain plug with a new one.

 

[nissanh]

Weld a 17, 19 or 21 nut onto the drain plug.

 

[LittleCaesar]

1. Weld a nut onto it and remove. Probably don't have a welder. Consider buying one in the future. Handy to have.
2. Buy a screw extractor, multi spline type, just a little bigger than the size of the hole, hit it in there, heat with oxy/ace and then attempt to remove.
3. Probably won't work but take a correctly sized extension, hit it into the hole to where it is snug, then put an impact on the other end.
4. Cut a groove into the plug, take an air hammer with a flat tip chisel bit and hit it enough to where it hopefully spins free.

#1 is the quickest and should be cheapest....

Good luck

 

[jdmpnoy89]

i ran into the same situation on my 4runner, previous owner stripped the hex, tried the chisel method but that didn't work the first time, then i heated the case slightly with a torch and used the chisel again and that worked for me!

 

[weekendclimber]

Haven't tried heat yet. That's the next option I think.

 

[99Runnr]

Those really seize in there. My last 4runner stripped out with a 2 foot breaker bar on a snap-on hex socket. Fitment was great it just couldn't handle it. My current truck I used my new cordless impact and it shocked the cover right out. I know if I had done (or had for that matter) this big ass impact it would have removed the other one too.

Since you stripped yours as well, I used a siphon pump with a necked down tube and siphoned the fluid OUT of the differential and then added fresh gear oil once I felt it was mostly emptied.

I used the $8 siphon pump from harbor freight and it has always worked well for me until it surpasses maybe 20 quarts through it. It has the smaller hose that fit down inside the diff casing though I believe.

 

[JayRolla]

Like stated weld a bolt. Bet shop charge half hour labor.

 

[nobb]

Not to threadjack but does anyone have a thread spec or alternative part # (eg. From different manufacturer with a non hex head) to replace the shitty OEM designed plug with?

 

[s20004runner]

Not to threadjack but does anyone have a thread spec or alternative part # (eg. From different manufacturer with a non hex head) to replace the shitty OEM designed plug with?

the hex plug used in the rear diff should be the same thread/size

i couldn't remove the plug, but i got the fill plug removed, so i got a pump to remove old oil and fill in new ones.

 

[Acorn22]

Just dealt with this yesterday. What I did was get a drill and create a square shape in the drain plug, just the right size for a 3/8" ratchet extension. Then I hammered an extension into it and was able to get if off by connecting a ratchet to the extension and twisting. That was my non-welding way of getting it out, hope that helps.

 

[Desertwind16v]

You can probably use the same method you're using by adding one more step. Grab your hammer and hit the face of the drain plug very hard a few times, it helps to crush the gasket down making it easier to loosen the plug. Then go back to using the chisel. I use this method at work to remove them when they're stuck.

 

[Harleydoc]

I just weld something to it to get it out and just replace it. And when I put the new one I put some Anti-seize on it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[kball]

If I was going to weld a nut onto the plug I think I would keep using that plug. It's already got a nut on it now!

Next time, for this application I would use this type of extractor.

Hex Head Multi-Spline Screw Extractors - 522/532 Series - Tools - IRWIN TOOLS

These plugs always seem to need some impact to get them off though. I would think you're on the right track with the chisel technique. Some heat should do it.

 

[hyken]

I have never had a nut or bolt that some Kroil couldn't bust. It's leagues above even PB Blaster. A little pricey, but SO worth it. I usually spray it on heavy, leave it for 30 minutes, then spray again right before I wrench on it. Works every time - seriously. And my truck is literally eaten alive with rust...

 

[mtbtim]

Hey, another thread I can post this video in.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/hFnOejt3VIU" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[weekendclimber]

Hey, another thread I can post this video in.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/hFnOejt3VIU" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I'd report you as spam, but I respect you too much :drum:

I've still not gotten this out, but pretty much ran out of time before I had to leave my truck up in Seattle after moving to Austin. Moving back to Seattle in 3 weeks and this is at the top of the list. If everyone who has suggested anything other than welding a nut/hex socket to the drain plug could go ahead and remove their posts, that'll help my case to my wife for getting a welder. TIA :dance:

 

[mtbtim]

I'd report you as spam, but I respect you too much :drum:

I've still not gotten this out, but pretty much ran out of time before I had to leave my truck up in Seattle after moving to Austin. Moving back to Seattle in 3 weeks and this is at the top of the list. If everyone who has suggested anything other than welding a nut/hex socket to the drain plug could go ahead and remove their posts, that'll help my case to my wife for getting a welder. TIA :dance:

I was helping [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] with some fluid changes the other day and his front diff drain bolt was of course not budging with a relatively short breaker bar, around 1 foot long. Instead of going to a larger breaker bar, I evenly heated up around the circumference of the drain plug for around 30 seconds with a butane torch and then tried again with the short breaker bar. It broke free no problem with minimal force. HEAT is definitely the answer to breaking these drain plugs free.

When you get back to Seattle, use some heat followed up with the chisel. You'll get it off. As for the welder, just tell your wife you'll build her something custom she'll like.

 

[weekendclimber]

Tried once again this weekend to get this thing off with no luck

Also, my welding skills are below sub par, so I wasn't even able to get a nut to stick on there well enough to crank on it. Anyone have a suggestion for the settings on the HF 125AMP welder to get that nut secured on there? I tried it on low first with slow wire feed and then also on high with slow wire speed. I'm a total newb to welding and the little sticker didn't really have too much advice on this particular welding setup.

Going to try to :flamethrwoer2: the sucker this weekend and then hit it with a chisel again. If that doesn't work, then I'll use [MENTION=150857]Acorn22[/MENTION]'s method and see if I can't get a ratchet extension on there.

 

[mtbtim]

Tried once again this weekend to get this thing off with no luck

Also, my welding skills are below sub par, so I wasn't even able to get a nut to stick on there well enough to crank on it. Anyone have a suggestion for the settings on the HF 125AMP welder to get that nut secured on there? I tried it on low first with slow wire feed and then also on high with slow wire speed. I'm a total newb to welding and the little sticker didn't really have too much advice on this particular welding setup.

Going to try to :flamethrwoer2: the sucker this weekend and then hit it with a chisel again. If that doesn't work, then I'll use [MENTION=150857]Acorn22[/MENTION]'s method and see if I can't get a ratchet extension on there.

I'd just do what we showed in the video. Get a cheap allen head socket that will fit tight into the rounded out hole of the drain plug. My buddy Ash got a very affordable allen head socket at Home Depot. Go to a muffler shop, tap the allen head socket into the plug and let some dude who knows how to weld tack it on there for you. I bet they only charge you max $20. While you are still there, make sure you can break it free. The heat from the welding will have loosened the bond and you should be able to spin off the drain plug no problem.

 

[Scramble]

Here in rusty NY I put a 3ft pipe on the end of my ratchet & stood on it. It came out. I'm surprised that so many people out of the salt belt are having problems with this front diff. That was before I owned a DeWalt impact.