Stuck Ignition? The simple inexpensive fix!!

Quadsbc

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Today I went out to start my 4runner and I can't mice the key to accessory. No it wasn't the steering lock, flat ground and wheels straight forward. Highly inconvenient. After a quick search I found this thread:http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/41345-key-keyhole-ignition-locks-up-wont-turn.html

Hey, I just got done with dealing with this exact issue in my 4Runner. 1997 SR5 140,000 miles. Mine started acting up a few months ago. I went and got a new key cut from the key code and this worked a little only that the key was almost inpossible to remove from the ignition. I kept using my old key that was easy to push in the ignition and remove from the ignition, but it would not turn most of the time. As time went on it got harder and harder to start / turn the ignition. It was to the point I thought it would not start and leave me stuck somewhere. Anyway, to get to the point, the ignition cylinder was worn out and needed to be replaced. The local dealership wanted $250-280 to replace it. They dont even do the work themselves, the sub it out to a lock smith. I ended up buying the ignition cylinder key set from the dealer for $104.62 before tax, you can find this part cheaper at Auto Zone or some other parts dealer, and I replaced it myself. If you have a Hanes or Chilton repair guide it will give you step by step instructions to replace it. It is very easy though. It took me about 10 minutes.

Step 1 - disconnect the battery so you do not risk setting off the air bags since you are workin gnear the steering column

Step 2 - remove the 4 bolts from the lower portion of the dash and drop the panel.

Step 3 - put the steering wheel in the lowest position

Step 4 - pop off the little bezel around the ignition

Step 5 - insert key and if possible turn it to the acc position

Step 6- insert a small screw driver in the hole in the underside of the ignition and pull out the entire assembly with the key.

Install of the new cylider is just the opposite.

Now, with the new ignition cylinder you will have new keys and it will not match your old key. The lock smith here in town told me he could rekey the ignition for $25. So, instead of being out $250-280 it cost about $113 for the ignition and $25 to rekey. `

Some good info some poor. Called the local locksmith who recommended calling toyota and replacing it with oem. A quote of 237 and I figured I'd try and fix it my self. Worst that can happen is I'd have to pay 237.

Now you will have slightly less security from thieves. But no one will know from the outside if done right. You will still have the coded key. Plan on 1hr start to finish. But you will likely take less time.

Tools needed:
10mm socket and ratchet
Philips screw driver
Flat screw driver
Small flat screw driver
1/8 drill bit
Drill
Small file
Snap ring pliers (or improvise)
Hammer
Needle nose pliers
Jb weld

It's pretty simple.

1: remove lower dash 4 10mm bolts

2: lower steering column and remove key surround.

3: with the Philips screw driver remove the black key surround. It's only one screw.

4: put your key into the ignition and turn it to accessory. Won't turn right? Put the key 75% in lightly turn to accessory using the handle of the screwdriver tap the key in. Mine released. DO NOT TURN IT BACK TO OFF!!! It my work a few times or not at all. While it's running move the truck to your desired location. Once again you can turn the engine off but DO NOT TURN THE KEY TO OFF!!

5: while the key in accessory there is a button that needs to be pressed in then you can pull the lock assembly out.
5810e6bb030dbb1a62de1c2560f38594.jpg~original

You can see the small button on the bottom side of the assembly.

6: remove the key

7: get your drill and bit out drill or file down the two tabs on the back of the facia. You don't need to drill through it just flush. This is made of aluminum so take it slow and be gentle as you don't want to destroy this. The bottom of the facia will then be held on by a small pin. I have no idea how to remove this so I used the drill yet again. Using the hammer and flat screw driver I was able to tap my way around the ack of the facia. Therefore removing it.

99EB9D31-B86B-42F8-8950-A393542293C8.jpg~original

This is the back of the facia
A94FF332-44A9-4F94-B7B6-6F3B9A161FFF.jpg~original


8: remove the snap ring on the rear of the lock cylinder. When you rotate the cylinder to on it will be able to be removed. Exposing the wafers. The last two are the problem wafers. They are a split design and often hang up.
You will be left with this
DC2609A5-88AD-4EAC-BD20-B814D6395CB8.jpg~original


312dd6e40375e4586a084cac6f647921.jpg~original


You can see how they are uneven in the picture. That's the problem.

9 using needle nose pliers remove these last two wafers. Be sure to remove the springs as well.

A0732EDA-B978-47D5-8896-97E30CE84051.jpg~original

No more wafers and springs.

10: reassemble in opposite order. I used a little jb weld on the tabs that I drilled and filed. Total cost was free or a tube of jb weld.

Enjoy never having this problem again!!

Anyone have anything to add?
 
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Thanks for the write-up. Mine gets a little sticky now and then so might be trying this at some point in the future - thread bookmarked.
 
I did something similar when I got mine. At some point the truck had been stolen so the ignition key didn't match the door keys. I did the same, except filed down the wafers with the "wrong" key inserted instead of removing the wafers. so it will work with either key.
 
I did something similar when I owned my old 1995 4Runner. Filed down the wafers to loosen up the tolerances, but didn't remove them completely. Lowers the security a bit, but not as much as removing them completely.
 
If you do this, the very least you should have is a kill switch. I would also suggest leaving a couple wafer/tumblers in there.
 
If you do this, the very least you should have is a kill switch. I would also suggest leaving a couple wafer/tumblers in there.

Depends where you live. And besides, not like the thief would know that you'd removed tumblers. He'd just pull it out with a slide hammer either way!
 
Depends where you live. And besides, not like the thief would know that you'd removed tumblers. He'd just pull it out with a slide hammer either way!

To use a slide hammer you turn the screw clockwise to thread it in. Same way the ignition turns.
 
Bringing up an old post but this was one of the many issues with my 213k project truck. I saw someone had done it with the Tundra ignition but wasn't positive the 4Runner ignition was the same. Now I know. I'll be doing this fix in the near future.

Now if I could get my 4Runner and Tacoma to both use the same key, that would be something.. But I'm not going that far. Thanks for the write up, Brendan!
 
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Has anyone had to drill out their ignition cylinder?..

My chip key broke in 1/2, so was starting it since it was stuck in the ACC position, with just the end of the key that has the transponder chip in it....

Well that didn't last too long, so it resorting to drilling out the center..

Now the truck starts with a screw driver & the chip key right next to the ignition...


Thoughts on a fix for this? Especially consider I will definitely need a new cylinder but I want to keep the original keys!

Does anyone know if I get a used lock cylinder, will it be able to be re-keyed to the original keys?

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I suspect if you have enough tumblers to choose from you can rekey the cylinder to work with your own key as long as your key is not too worn, however the reassembled integrity of the cylinder depends on what you did to get it apart.

NB
I never knew why my dad made a spare key of his brand new car and put it in the safe until after I inherited the car as a teenager. The ignition key was so smoothed out that one day it wouldn't start the car anymore. Dad drops the new key on me and said "you're welcome." I've been making backup up keys ever since. That car had different keys for ignition and doors/trunk, our 4runners have a single key for all locks.
 
Bumping this thread in hopes that someone has an idea on how to remove my ignition cynlinder since I’m really having a hard time removing it....

I went to the pick’n’pu today to tear apart a dash & understand how everything works...

It’s crazy how the component that holds the ignition cylinder in place is like
Permanently bolted to The steering column with bolts that you can’t unscrew...

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I really wish i had seen this sooner. I was thinking it would be way harder then this . Thanks for the info gonna be a big help with the new 3rd gen.
 
Bumping this thread in hopes that someone has an idea on how to remove my ignition cynlinder since I’m really having a hard time removing it....

I went to the pick’n’pu today to tear apart a dash & understand how everything works...

It’s crazy how the component that holds the ignition cylinder in place is like
Permanently bolted to The steering column with bolts that you can’t unscrew...

.

Any ideas you guys?....


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Poster above me did not read the FIRST post in the thread! Too long ago to help them now. Maybe they figured it out.

Thanks for the thread. It saved me today. Fixed mine for free with these directions.

I did not grind my tabs off completely. I ground them thin, then i used a small punch on them while supporting the tumbler on a socket. That pushed the face off and when i put it back on, i smashed the little nubs down like a rivet,,,just like toyota did. Take the face off without drilling the pin. Push pin to the outside and it is easy to reinstall, then push pin back in.

None of this matters really. The trim would not let the face come off anyway once it is all back together.
 
If you do this, the very least you should have is a kill switch. I would also suggest leaving a couple wafer/tumblers in there.


just did this yesterday and installed a hidden kill switch. you would have to tear apart the inside to find it
 
Thanks for everyone that contributed to this post! Can we get some links to tumblers and kill switches that work?
 

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