stuck spark plug #1 on 1gr-fe 2005 v6

T

tcpoob

New member
my #1 (passenger side front, closest to oil dip stick) spark plug seems to not want to come all the way out. i was able to loosen it a bit with a 3/8 ratchet but it seemed tO get even tighter after backing OUT a bit, really weird. i didn't want to brute force it so i left it alone. it was last changed in 3/2010 and about 68k miles ago. i did rub some anti-seize on all. this was the last one of 6. all the others have been replaced. any tips? the car hadn't been driven for 3 or 4 days so it was cold when i started.

would spraying some penetrating oil around the plug and let it soak for some time help? if so, what penetrating oil is good for this, i've pb blaster, maybe liquid wrench. i didn't think those stuff were for spark plugs.

should i put an impact wrench on it? i thought that would be a bad idea, less control and i don't want to mess up the threads or risk breaking the plug there.

should i try to tighten it back down a turn or half, then try to back it out again? like i said, this was the last plug out of all six. i'd more trouble on the driver side in removing wiring coil clip than this, but now the last one just got me.

i had never had anything that started to come out yet got tight again. Didn't think i cross threaded by just looking at it. i remember being very careful when i put it on last time.


pretty please, thanks
 
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Never had a problem like this ever, especially on a aluminum head. Me personally, I would use some kind of wd40,pb, something lubricant. Spray first, tighten back up a little to get some on the threads and bring it back out. Might have to do the in and out a few times bringing it more to the out each time, keep lubed up.
If and when it is out, inspect the threads on the head and go from there.
 
I would use some kind of wd40,pb, something lubricant.
Click to expand...

PB blaster - YES...WD-40 - NO. WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. WD stands for water displacement. And that's what it does. Although people TRY (usually unsuccessfully) use it as a penetrating oil.

Spray some PB Blaster down the hole and let it sit for a couple of hours. Then try it. After you remove the plug check the threads for damage.
 
MikeInNH said:
PB blaster - YES...
Spray some PB Blaster down the hole and let it sit for a couple of hours. Then try it. After you remove the plug check the threads for damage.
Click to expand...

I agree with the PB Blaster. Don't use an impact. Don't over-torque the plug.
How far is it loosening? 1/4 turn, more, less?
I would do the following:
Loosen it and keep track of how far.
Then spray the PB.
Tighten it to the correct torque spec.
Use the truck or run the engine to warm it up to normal operating temp.
Let it sit to cool down to a warm engine (no sense burning yourself working on a hot plug.)
Loosen again and track how far.
Repeat as required if there was improvement.
 
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Let it sit to cool down to a warm engine (no sense burning yourself working on a hot plug.)
Click to expand...

You NEVER EVER want to remove a plug from a hot aluminum engine....EVER. That's a very easy way to destroy the threads in the head.
 
MikeInNH said:
You NEVER EVER want to remove a plug from a hot aluminum engine....EVER. That's a very easy way to destroy the threads in the head.
Click to expand...

Correct and I agree.
Sorry if this came across wrong but I was more focused on having the OP go through a complete heat cycle. Wait to attempt to remove the plug again with a stone cold engine if you want.
 
gave up on that #1 plug for now

i needed the car to drive kid to school today so i stayed up till like 3am to put it back together. plug #1, the one that's stuck, might have loosen 1 turn ish but it got really tight. i decided to leave it alone after i fastened it back a 1/4 ish which was also really tight. i mean, i've done the other 5 plugs so i should have some feel on how hard it should be. Didn't want to break the plug and figured what the heck, 5 new NGK Iridium IX plugs, 1 old Denso so be it for now. So it put it all back and went to bed. I'll fight another day, and I'll pb blaster soak it first next time. I am hoping to get back to it this weekend.

For the most part, I achieved objective of the work. I was having rough start, misfiring #6, blinking CEL and VSC TRAC lights. I replaced #6 with a new coil (BWD Intermotor E995) that seemed to do the trick for now. Also replaced plugs with NGK Iridium IX while I was already down there. Unfortunately #1 plug wouldn't budge. Maybe I should get some Kano Kroil. Is that stuff really that much better than PB Blaster?
 
tcpoob said:
For the most part, I achieved objective of the work. I was having rough start, misfiring #6, blinking CEL and VSC TRAC lights. I replaced #6 with a new coil (BWD Intermotor E995) that seemed to do the trick for now. Also replaced plugs with NGK Iridium IX while I was already down there. Unfortunately #1 plug wouldn't budge. Maybe I should get some Kano Kroil. Is that stuff really that much better than PB Blaster?
Click to expand...

How many miles on your truck? Noticed any coolant loss lately?
 
Buckles said:
Sounds like that plug is cross threaded. Either get some Kroil or mix up some acetone and ATF.
Click to expand...

i manually threaded then gave it another turn when i installed it.

could it start to cross thread on the way out? unlikely.

hopefully just being tight from being there 67k miles or < 4 years.

giving it another shot this weekend.
 
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