Sub and Amp DIY

kimboy

New member
Well I finally got to do something that I've wanted to for quite some time and that's to add some thump to my music.

Equipment:

Head Unit - Scion Navigation System (SNS) - made by alpine, and I think this puts out 18 rms x 4, or in Alpines words at least 20 rms per channel.

Amp - Alpine PDX 600
Subwoofer - Boston Acoustics G5 w/ Passive Radiator 10" (small enclosure - rated at 450 rms)
Wiring Kit - 4 gauge sosche
Sound Gate LOCX 2- Line out put converter (85 watt, 100HZ Low Pass)
12 Gauge Rockford Fosgate Speaker Wire

I'm still missing a Quick Connect piece to attach the sub speaker cable to the amp, but that's on order. I may buy a tuning CD as well to get the most out of the sub and that should round things out. I can add little upgrades with speaker connectors and such after I figure out what's good.

I'll post a video when it's all up and running. Hopefully this gives you guys some confidence in doing this project yourselves.
 

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Routing cable - amp location is the drivers side seat, leaving the passenger side for a potential 4 channel amp.
 

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LOC Pic #2 - I tried to solder but, when that was unsuccessful, I just twisted and taped.
 

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The LOC is tucked under the navigation system, so I can tune it without taking out the deck again.
 

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Great post. Where did you pull remote wire for the amp? Did you have enough space under the seat for the PDX amp?
 
I tapped the remote wire behind the harness. It takes some time to take off all the extra tape, but hopefully I did it correctly (oh my back)

I stripped two sections of the remote line (that goes to the amp) first a 1" long strip (at the end) and a 1/2" length about 2" up. That leaves two sections of 1/2" sections of exposed wire.

The point of this was to add a little bit of slack to the stock wiring harness. One end of the remote wire gets twisted to the line going to the amp, and the 1/2" area higher up is where I twisted and taped the other end of the remote line.

I don't know if this was the best thing to do, but after cutting the remote wire, I just wasn't comfortable having the stock harness shortened because of the cutting and twisting.

Sorry, I forgot to take a picture of this step. I hope I did a good job explaining this.
 
I have enough room to install the PDX under the seat, however, it does block the airflow of the floor AC/Heater for the back seats.

I can install a spacer under the amp, but that just seems like a little too much work.

By the way, the shape of the Husky Liners automatically restricts airflow in the back.

I'll post a pic in a few days to show what I'm trying to describe.
 
kimboy said:
LOC Pic #2 - I tried to solder but, when that was unsuccessful, I just twisted and taped.

Please use a butt connector if you can't solder the ends. Twisting and taping is so unsafe. Nice gear though!!!
 
I just finished re-wiring the harness with crimp connectors. I thought my twist and tape was pretty secure, but here's a few pics I took tonight.
 

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Tapping the remote wire with a little extra room to work with.
 

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My alpine amp was an open box item, and I found that all the fuses were toast.

I spent $3 at pep-boys and I finally have bass.

I'll have to tweak the LOC and gain controls on the amp over the next few days (tough to do at night), but hopefully I'll have a video to show everyone.

I think the sub needs some time to break in as well.

I'm not adding a wall full of bass at the moment, but this amp has enough juice to run 2 JLw3's which may be an upgrade somewhere down the line :)
 
badooga, what amp are you running?

Tonight I'll start tuning the gain control on my LOC and Amp and hopefully I'll start to feel the music all throughout the truck. Right now, they're just preset down the middle.

Did you also change out your oem speakers.
 

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