Successful 5th Gen Key fob swap!
- Thread starter Hobson
- Start date
97BlackAckCL
Elite Member
As long as you get the right FCC frequency I don't see why not
Martinjmpr
New member
cut but doesn't turn reliably?
I had mine cut last night at Lowe's. Turned OK in the driver's door but not in the ignition. Take it back to Lowes and have them cut it just a little more? Seems like it's sticking a bit, like maybe it needs just a bit more cut off.
Any recommendations? Without being able to turn the key in the ignition I can't program it!
I had mine cut last night at Lowe's. Turned OK in the driver's door but not in the ignition. Take it back to Lowes and have them cut it just a little more? Seems like it's sticking a bit, like maybe it needs just a bit more cut off.
Any recommendations? Without being able to turn the key in the ignition I can't program it!
moneypit
New member
I used this on my 2003 LTD. The key does not have to turn to program the immobilizer. It will have to turn to program the fob but, if you have another that turns you just need to get the cutting right to start after programming.
How to program
Actually it's a super easy if you still have one master key that can start your 4runner. There was a pdf somewhere about how to do it on a Prado but
its not very clear(it would ask you to remove the key from ignition 3 times without mentioning putting it back in at all) so I'll try to provide a clearer one here:
1. Take the new key and one master key that can start your 4runner(old key) into the 4runner with you and close the driver's door.(immobilizer light should be blinking)
2. Insert old key, remove old key, Insert old key, remove old key,
Insert old key, remove old key, Insert old key, remove old key,
Insert old key (immobilizer light should be off from the first insertion)
3. open and close driver's door six times (immobilizer light should be off)
Step 2 and 3 need to be done in less than 35 seconds(pdf says 35 seconds)
4.remove the old key. (immobilizer light should come on(steady on, not blinking))
5. insert the new key(immobilizer light should be blinking)
Then just sit there and wait, after a minute or two, the blinking immobilizer light should go off and you're done.
Whole process need to be repeated for any additional keys, the just programmed key could be used as the "old key" for the additional keys.
If there are 5 master keys registered with the immobilizer, it won't accept any more(and I don't know how would it tell you this, so just do a erase if you can't get it to work after trying for a few times). You have to erase them using a similar method(bring in just an old key, insert+remove one more time and open+close one more time, after the 7th close of the driver's door the immobilizer light will stay lighted for one second, remove the old key quickly after that and all but that one you just removed are erased.)
How to program
Actually it's a super easy if you still have one master key that can start your 4runner. There was a pdf somewhere about how to do it on a Prado but
its not very clear(it would ask you to remove the key from ignition 3 times without mentioning putting it back in at all) so I'll try to provide a clearer one here:
1. Take the new key and one master key that can start your 4runner(old key) into the 4runner with you and close the driver's door.(immobilizer light should be blinking)
2. Insert old key, remove old key, Insert old key, remove old key,
Insert old key, remove old key, Insert old key, remove old key,
Insert old key (immobilizer light should be off from the first insertion)
3. open and close driver's door six times (immobilizer light should be off)
Step 2 and 3 need to be done in less than 35 seconds(pdf says 35 seconds)
4.remove the old key. (immobilizer light should come on(steady on, not blinking))
5. insert the new key(immobilizer light should be blinking)
Then just sit there and wait, after a minute or two, the blinking immobilizer light should go off and you're done.
Whole process need to be repeated for any additional keys, the just programmed key could be used as the "old key" for the additional keys.
If there are 5 master keys registered with the immobilizer, it won't accept any more(and I don't know how would it tell you this, so just do a erase if you can't get it to work after trying for a few times). You have to erase them using a similar method(bring in just an old key, insert+remove one more time and open+close one more time, after the 7th close of the driver's door the immobilizer light will stay lighted for one second, remove the old key quickly after that and all but that one you just removed are erased.)
Martinjmpr
New member
So I just have to insert the key, I don't have to be able to turn it? If that's the case, I can do that. The key inserts OK, it just doesn't turn reliably (if I put it so the remote controls are facing me, I can get it to turn maybe 1 time out of 5. Turning it the other way it won't turn at all.)
It will turn in the driver's door but only if I hold it with the remote controls facing to the left. I couldn't get it to turn on the lift gate.
I did the cheap/easy/convenient thing and went to Lowe's where they'll cut a key at no cost if you bring it in. Well, I guess now I know what "free" is worth.
I have Friday off and we have a very good lock/key shop here in town. I'll probably take it to them and see if they can get it to work, for which I'll gladly pay. Otherwise, I guess I just learned a $30.00 lesson in what happens when you're in too much of a hurry (I would have gone to the lock shop on Monday but I didn't get there until after 6 and they close at 5:30 so I just hurried over to Lowe's.)
It will turn in the driver's door but only if I hold it with the remote controls facing to the left. I couldn't get it to turn on the lift gate.
I did the cheap/easy/convenient thing and went to Lowe's where they'll cut a key at no cost if you bring it in. Well, I guess now I know what "free" is worth.
I have Friday off and we have a very good lock/key shop here in town. I'll probably take it to them and see if they can get it to work, for which I'll gladly pay. Otherwise, I guess I just learned a $30.00 lesson in what happens when you're in too much of a hurry (I would have gone to the lock shop on Monday but I didn't get there until after 6 and they close at 5:30 so I just hurried over to Lowe's.)
Stopped by the locksmith after work today. The new key they ordered me came in. The guy cut it correctly this time and then took it outside and tested it. He had to hand file a few places to make it perfect.
I could not get the fob on the factory toyota key to program so I ended up swapping the internals from the key that sears jacked up. Everything works great now.
I could not get the fob on the factory toyota key to program so I ended up swapping the internals from the key that sears jacked up. Everything works great now.
dgwood12
Member
Everything here worked just as listed for my 2008 SR5. Got my key today with the Toyota logo on the back. Took it to the dealership and $8 later my key was cut perfectly via my VIN. After getting home I programmed the fob and programmed the key and everything is working great! Thanks everyone for your writeup and comments!
Can you post the link to the key you ordered? I ordered one that had the right FCC ID and after getting it cut I am able to program the fob no problem but cant get it to program to the immobilizer and start the car. WOndering if I bought the wrong one somehow...
dgwood12
Member
Can you post the link to the key you ordered? I ordered one that had the right FCC ID and after getting it cut I am able to program the fob no problem but cant get it to program to the immobilizer and start the car. WOndering if I bought the wrong one somehow...
I think someone a couple of posts back had the same problem. Ended up being a dud chip. I think he ended up getting the chip swapped out by the company that sold it to him....
LTDSC
New member
my programming chip just shit on me. I was in Pismo and the hotel generator blew which was next to our hotel room. I've replaced the battery and the programmer doesnt light up upon key press. Im going to email the seller see what they will do. It worked great, still starts the car and everything just the buttons wont work.
dgwood12
Member
I hope this had to do with that generator blowing (although I'm not sure how that would) and not due to cheap manufacturing... How long have you had the key?
LTDSC
New member
my friends phone battery shit on him as the same time is the only reason why i think it MAY be the generator.
I had it two weeks.
Martinjmpr
New member
Success...mostly....
OK, just got back from the locksmith. He looked at both keys and determined that the key was apparently cut correctly, and he went out to my truck to check it out. After a minute or so, he got it to turn in the ignition pretty reliably, although only one way (that is, with the remote controls facing to the left.) Since I had already programmed the chip, it started right up.
We still could not get it to work reliably in the driver's door and not at all in the rear hatch.
Locksmith explained it like this: Over time, both the key and the lock cylinder wear. If you're mostly using the same key (like I think most of us here do) then the lock and the cylinder wear together.
However, since we have a remote, most of us don't use the lock in the door, so it doesn't wear as much.
Since the door and hatch locks aren't quite as worn, the key doesn't work in them as well. Honestly this isn't a big deal to me - I can't remember the last time I actually unlocked my driver's door with the key and ditto for the hatch. Like most of us I normally use the remote for both functions (although it would be nice if there was a "back window UP" position on the remote - I think somebody here did a hack for that didn't they?)
In any case, now that I can get the key to turn, I was able to program the remote following the instructions provided and now - voila, new key!
Thanks again for posting this!
OK, just got back from the locksmith. He looked at both keys and determined that the key was apparently cut correctly, and he went out to my truck to check it out. After a minute or so, he got it to turn in the ignition pretty reliably, although only one way (that is, with the remote controls facing to the left.) Since I had already programmed the chip, it started right up.
We still could not get it to work reliably in the driver's door and not at all in the rear hatch.
Locksmith explained it like this: Over time, both the key and the lock cylinder wear. If you're mostly using the same key (like I think most of us here do) then the lock and the cylinder wear together.
However, since we have a remote, most of us don't use the lock in the door, so it doesn't wear as much.
Since the door and hatch locks aren't quite as worn, the key doesn't work in them as well. Honestly this isn't a big deal to me - I can't remember the last time I actually unlocked my driver's door with the key and ditto for the hatch. Like most of us I normally use the remote for both functions (although it would be nice if there was a "back window UP" position on the remote - I think somebody here did a hack for that didn't they?)
In any case, now that I can get the key to turn, I was able to program the remote following the instructions provided and now - voila, new key!
Thanks again for posting this!
inscarguy
Member
it was me. yes i did send it back to the seller. he replaced the chip, sent it back and it works perfectly.
He sent me a label and I already sent it out. Hopefully it works when I get it back.
97BlackAckCL
Elite Member
Just ordered a set of keys
:girl:
:girl:
Boxermachine
Member
Mine just came in the mail. Looks great- and a nice chrome Toyo emblem on it- a surprise as the ebay auction said it was blank.
dgwood12
Member
I originally posted this 2 days ago but I guess the forum had some posts lost.
I got my key all set up the other day and everything was working great...I was pumped. I made a trip to the store (about half a mile away) and picked some things up. I walked out of the store and used my new key to get in my car and get on my way. I pulled into my place and parked and got out and when I went to lock my car, the key fob was no longer working. I was quite frustrated thinking I had just wasted around $50 bucks for the key and to get it cut. I came upstairs and busted the thing open and looked inside and everything looked fine. I put it back together and it worked. I am guessing the battery was loose. There are 3 sets of speed bumps in my complex so I am assuming that that shook the key just enough to loosen the battery? It sort of worries me though because 1, I don't go over the bumps fast enough to shake very much and 2, the key is in the ignition when going over so its not like its slamming around or anything.
Anyone else have a similar issue? I am wondering if I should tape the battery down somehow. Thoughts?
I got my key all set up the other day and everything was working great...I was pumped. I made a trip to the store (about half a mile away) and picked some things up. I walked out of the store and used my new key to get in my car and get on my way. I pulled into my place and parked and got out and when I went to lock my car, the key fob was no longer working. I was quite frustrated thinking I had just wasted around $50 bucks for the key and to get it cut. I came upstairs and busted the thing open and looked inside and everything looked fine. I put it back together and it worked. I am guessing the battery was loose. There are 3 sets of speed bumps in my complex so I am assuming that that shook the key just enough to loosen the battery? It sort of worries me though because 1, I don't go over the bumps fast enough to shake very much and 2, the key is in the ignition when going over so its not like its slamming around or anything.
Anyone else have a similar issue? I am wondering if I should tape the battery down somehow. Thoughts?
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