Sunk the 4Runner x2 -please help !!!

If it makes you feel any better, this was the outcome of my stupid moment in the mud!
a>~original
 
I was bombing through an L-shaped mud puddle like a complete jackass. I started turning to exit the "L", my outside tires fell into a deep rut that was under the water, and I rolled over. Looking back on it, I was asking for a rollover. At least I learned my lesson that my truck and I aren't actually invincible.

Myself nor my two passengers had any injuries whatsoever, despite a long board and a wood plaque flying around the interior as we rolled over. Luckily, we were all wearing our seat belts, and the closest thing to an injury was a few tiny cuts on my arm due to the window shattering.

After the rollover, my buddy with a frontier came out and helped us flip it back over and towed me to the nearby road. From there, I got tow trucked home and started stripping all my good parts off. I somehow managed to pull out my lift, reinstall my stock suspension and swap 8 tires onto wheels with a tire changer in one day!
 
Yes - All of the above is exactly what happened. If we had just left it alone and waited until morning to get the tractor, at least the tranny would have been fine. But your first instinct is to get it out. In my case we had no choice to at least get it somewhat out because the muffler was underwater. We could not leave it like that. Pretty sure the initial damage to the tranny occurred whilst spinning the wheels whilst the Tacoma was pulling. We did get it to a better position. After that, I believe driving it around over the next few days was enough to finish the job in the tranny. From now on if I get stuck that bad, I'm not even going to try. Just stop before you dig a far worse hole (no pun intended).
As far as my tie-rods, my brother seemed to think that someone physically moved the clamps. Maybe the mechanic did last time it was in the shop for some reason. There's no way they just both magically came off. Clamps and boots are perfectly fine and tie-rods seem fine as well. Just really weird.
Thanks for your responses, slapdaddy. I'll keep ya posted on my rather expensive adventure in the mud pit of doom -
P.S. The center diff-lock on the '01 is quite inferior to the RR diff-lock. I firmly believe had I had my '96 in that situation, We would have had a pretty good chance of getting that sucker out.
are these transmission really that fragile? a bit of heat ruined it?

you dont think it was towed incorrectly? that maybe there WAS something wrong internally, but the tow actually caused major damage?

If it makes you feel any better, this was the outcome of my stupid moment in the mud!
a>~original

nicely done.
looks like the cab held up pretty good.
 
are these transmission really that fragile? a bit of heat ruined it?

you dont think it was towed incorrectly? that maybe there WAS something wrong internally, but the tow actually caused major damage?


No, I don't believe these transmissions are that fragile. I thought they were somewhat invincible with driving Toyotas for 13 years, but they do have a limit. I think that limit is probably somewhere around 250 degrees. Apparently so do the newer model F150's. My friend with the 2010 F150's tranny also failed last Thurs. He at least drove us home and put about 550 miles on it before it failed. He still has a powertrain warranty so they're putting a brand new tranny in for free.
As for me, the Runner got towed on flatbed's all the way home (325 miles) The mud pit of doom has cost me about $4075 so far. Not taking into account things that I knew already needed to be done. Before ya'll yell at me, I really haven't been in a position to barter or wait. I need help from friends that have garages and gear. Things I can't do by myself in an apartment parking lot. However, these things need to be done.
Here's the lowdown
$400 for tow
$140 alternator
$2600 re-manned tranny
$300 rear main seal
$128 battery
$30 front diff axle seals
$20 fuel filter
$475 front axle seals installed, oil, fuel filter install, front and rear diffs flushed and filled (had my own fluid) (also full of water)

That's before I get to the plugs/harnesses on the interior. Have plugs and wires ordered (NGK/Denso). Tundra Brembo rotors/Bosch pads on order. Starter is shot ($95/54 core)
Carpet and door panels are getting pulled soon. I also have a new rad to to install. I've been in and around many people stuck in the past but this was something different. Here's a new pic my friend posted. Don't do this.
 

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Damn, man - Gotta ask how it got that way and that the outcome was.


So I'm going too go out on a limb here and say it had something to do with that beer can set down next to the headlight.

To be fair though (in case it didn't), if I had just wrecked my truck I would definitely have a brewsky.
 
Update 9-17-13 -Holy poop, almost done as far as I know. Biggest concern is the wiring harnesses that were under water. All the electrical systems are operating as they should. Got a starter from a junkyard in Denver and replaced the contacts (they weren't bad but just to be sure). No fun to replace starter. Gonna rebuild the other one for a spare. I pulled the interior completely which wasn't that bad surprisingly. No mold or badness. Let everything dry and shampoo'd the carpet with my old lady's steam cleaner. Disco'ed the harnesses from the 4WD comp and main underneath it (they had no sign of corrosion) and sprayed contact cleaner and dialectric greased 'em. Everything's re-assembled, did the Tundra 13WL's yesterday. All I need to do is figure out how bad the steering issue is. It was a little loose when I bought it, I'm pretty sure what I did didn't help. I know I need to do the rack bushings (has a solid inch of play). Might need inner tie-rod on the passenger side. Don't know the condition of the internal parts of the rack. LBJ on the passenger side is gooing a little bit but still tight. Don't want to spend anymore than necessary. I'd like to think I can do the rack bushings, guide and LBJ's and call it good. Fairly cheap other than the Ball Joints. Can't cut corners on this. I refuse to turn it over to the Mrs. until everythings' solid and safe. Any thoughts?
 
No, I don't believe these transmissions are that fragile. I thought they were somewhat invincible with driving Toyotas for 13 years, but they do have a limit. I think that limit is probably somewhere around 250 degrees.

these trans are tough, your wrong though about the 250* temp though, ive had mine over that before and never had an issue. the idiot light on the dash wont come on until around 275*, i have had my light come on before. something else ate up your trans, it would be interesting to pull it apart and have a look inside. it might have been heat im not sure, but if it was heat, they you had it will over 300* for an extended period of time -both of you guys did. and im not the only one who has seen temps over 250*.
 
these trans are tough, your wrong though about the 250* temp though, ive had mine over that before and never had an issue. the idiot light on the dash wont come on until around 275*, i have had my light come on before. something else ate up your trans, it would be interesting to pull it apart and have a look inside. it might have been heat im not sure, but if it was heat, they you had it will over 300* for an extended period of time -both of you guys did. and im not the only one who has seen temps over 250*.

I'm sure your right, I have no idea how hot it got during the situation. Never had the idiot light come on. Was definitely burnt up inside according to the tranny shop. Torque converter was chewed up a bit, too. The hottest I saw it get was a few days later when it got up to 250* on the highway and that did it in. Granted, the internal damage was already done at that point so the temp just finished the job. Who knows. All I know is I broke it.
On a lighter note, found out yesterday I gotta replace the steering rack. Yay. Least I got the Tundra brakes done on Monday so that's nice -
 
these trans are tough, your wrong though about the 250* temp though, ive had mine over that before and never had an issue. the idiot light on the dash wont come on until around 275*, i have had my light come on before. something else ate up your trans, it would be interesting to pull it apart and have a look inside. it might have been heat im not sure, but if it was heat, they you had it will over 300* for an extended period of time -both of you guys did. and im not the only one who has seen temps over 250*.


heatchrt.jpg


im not sure the difference between standard atf, and full synthetic. i would suspect the synth handles the heat a bit better.
but, still, heat is an auto-trans killer for sure.
 
Holy poop

I'm done. 3 months and a lot of money and work later, finally done. The wife is so happy = me happy. I screwed up big time. At least she was with me when I did it. I've learned some valuable lessons and also how to rebuild a late 3rd gen Runner (aside from upgrading my '96). Thank Buddha for my good buddy and my brother for helping me. BRIANSD, I did OEM replacements other than the rack. Hooray - Happy 4Runners
 

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wow

I'm done. 3 months and a lot of money and work later, finally done. The wife is so happy = me happy. I screwed up big time. At least she was with me when I did it. I've learned some valuable lessons and also how to rebuild a late 3rd gen Runner (aside from upgrading my '96). Thank Buddha for my good buddy and my brother for helping me. BRIANSD, I did OEM replacements other than the rack. Hooray - Happy 4Runners
impressed. is it better than it was in every way?
 
impressed. is it better than it was in every way?

Yes. Especially the brakes and steering. Everything's running great as far as the wife says. Next year, I'm gonna do the TB/WP and slap a new rad in it that I have laying around. Might steal the heated seats out of it and retro them into my '96. Don't think she'd be too happy with me, though. Still need to disable DRLs and get some LEDs in the interior.
 
So which steering rack did you go with, and what do you think of it?

Used the AAE rack from Rockauto and poly bushings from Wheelers Off-Road. The rack seems fine, especially for 1/2 the price as the Safari one. The only issue we ran into was my buddy assumed the pinion was centered prior to install. It wasn't. Luckily we didn't have to completely drop the rack to re-center it. The rack came with a 2yr warranty as well.
 

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