sunroof automatically retracts at the deflector

[TrailPJ]

So the sunroof on my 2010 TE will not close with the one touch feature. As soon as it hits the deflector it retracts. I can manually push the button repeatedly and step it closed.
I found this thread:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/172859-2010-te-sunroof-issue.html
And cleaned all the tracks, did the sunroof reset, and made sure everything looks good. It still won't close.
Here's the fun part; I removed the front springs from the sunroof deflector which makes it lay completely flat. The sunroof closes fine now with just one touch. However, I'd prefer to fix it properly. Perhaps different springs for the sunroof deflector?
Any ideas are appreciated...

Thanks!

 

[rigtec]

"...Here's the fun part; I removed the front springs from the sunroof deflector which makes it lay completely flat. The sunroof closes fine now with just one touch. However, I'd prefer to fix it properly. Perhaps different springs for the sunroof deflector?..."

Hi TrailPJ,

Sounds like you know all about the inherent safety feature; the sliding glass is designed to 'Back-off' when it's confronted or interfered with during it's operation. ordinarily, it's able to overcome the slight resistance imposed by the wind deflector during normal open/close function. But to me it sounds like it's encountering a higher than normal amount of resistance when trying to run it's coarse. There doesn't have to be anything wrong with the amount of pressure it takes to close the wind deflector; that could be functioning just the way it always has been.

But there's a 'predetermined limit' to the amount of Current that the motor can Safely draw before tripping the safety function. I say this because the wind deflector may be just fine, but the 'Collective' resistance e.g., track dirt, dried grease, worn rollers, and slight debris in linkages and moving parts... will all contribute to the right amount of motor current consumption to trip the safety mode. Clean the tracks and linkages good.

Spray all moving parts and linkages with penetrating oil first, wipe it down to clean out the old grease that will come out. Then I would spray a fresh coat of white lube on all moving and sliding parts. Work the sliding glass back-n-forth several times to get it moving freely again and you should see a great change in it's operation, let us know how you make out,

Cheers!

 

[Hellamatic]

Hi TrailPJ,

Sounds like you know all about the inherent safety feature; the sliding glass is designed to 'Back-off' when it's confronted or interfered with during it's operation. ordinarily, it's able to overcome the slight resistance imposed by the wind deflector during normal open/close function. But to me it sounds like it's encountering a higher than normal amount of resistance when trying to run it's coarse. There doesn't have to be anything wrong with the amount of pressure it takes to close the wind deflector; that could be functioning just the way it always has been.

But there's a 'predetermined limit' to the amount of Current that the motor can Safely draw before tripping the safety function. I say this because the wind deflector may be just fine, but the 'Collective' resistance e.g., track dirt, dried grease, worn rollers, and slight debris in linkages and moving parts... will all contribute to the right amount of motor current consumption to trip the safety mode. Clean the tracks and linkages good.

Spray all moving parts and linkages with penetrating oil first, wipe it down to clean out the old grease that will come out. Then I would spray a fresh coat of white lube on all moving and sliding parts. Work the sliding glass back-n-forth several times to get it moving freely again and you should see a great change in it's operation, let us know how you make out,

Cheers!

I agree. Aerosol lithium grease works wonders on anything that slides, pivots, or otherwise moves. I applied it often to the tonneau cover on my Tundra before I sold it.