Hmm, do tell! I'd like to see what you're thinking and costs.
Nothing special really. I've just been piddling around with making my own on and off in my spare time. Studied a little bit on suspension design to see what I could cook up. Saw what everyone else is doing and charging and borrowed the ideas that I liked.
For the lower links the OEM use rubber bushings. Aftermarket offerings use different combinations of poly bushings, heim joints, and Johnny Joints. For tubing it looks like 1-1/2" x .250 wall DOM is pretty standard for the heavy duty applications. Metaltech uses 1-3/4".
The advantage to the flexible bushings is that they actually give, so they are easier on the components around them like the mounts and chassis, etc. and also will ride less harsh as they are actually suspension components. The drawback is that they don't handle mis-alignment very well at dramatic flex angles because they bind up sooner.
Flexible metal ball and socket style joints offer greater mis-alignment angles and are more heavy duty at the trade off of being more costly, possibly requiring more maintenance, and being harder on surrounding components and yielding harsher ride quality from the nature of their rigidity.
That being said, I decided to utilize 1-1/2" x .250 wall DOM, with a large adjustable Heim Joint at the frame side and an off set 2-1/2" Johnny Joint at the axle side like the MT ones. I haven't seen anybody with this combination. Basically using the design elements that I like from everything that's out there.
For the Track Bar (Panhard) I'm just using some 1-1/2" x .120 wall DOM with left and right hand high mis-alignment rod ends at each end. This will make it adjustable on the truck like a turnbuckle. Some people us .250 wall on these, but I think that'd be overkill. It more than doubles my cost on material. As an engineer, I've learned that it's easy to design overkill, but for companies with competition, not many are willing to pay for overkill.
Originally I wanted to design just a bolt-on panhard lift bracket, that had multiple holes depending on the amount of lift you had, in order to get your axle re-centered as an economical solution, but I really couldn't find an elegant way to pull off. The advantage to that is that it produces a more desirable "roll center" than just throwing a longer panhard bar in would.
Still fleshing out the details for the upper links. I'd like to do something that would alleviate a condition where the driver side link smacks the fuel tank at full droop, so stay tuned for that. I'll really get to investigate it with the long travel setup.
I've still got to make drawings and send them to my fabricators. As a preliminary costing analysis, I don't see myself saving a ton of money over buying something off the shelf, but I'll have "one off" pieces that
I designed and they'll be the way
I want them. Now if a few of you guys like you and Austin would like to have a set of your own made, that could possibly bring the cost down for all of us. Bobby wanted a set when I first started talking about doing some, but couldn't wait, so he bought MetalTechs. It's tough when ya got that money burnin' a hole in your pocket I guess lol.... Not a problem I know.
They do however need to be a heavy duty material though for sure. I am not sure what the load rating is on the uppers, but you have witnessed these break on the trail. I am looking into replacing them because I am concerned about how much they can handle. Especially with the new improved flex. 
