Superman3043's Build Thread

I built my own engine splash guards, but the price Rad Rubber Designs is charging is very reasonable, I agree.

Icon's delta joint's 5yr warranty (when used with their products) is pretty insane. I wish they made a 1.25" joint to use with my Camburg arms. My uniballs are holding up pretty good though, not sure the added cost over a cheaper uniball rebuild would be worth it for me.

I didn't know ARB's skids were that cheap! Not a bad option if you stay out of the boulder-sized rocks.

Yeah man, the Delta Joints are an intriguing option for me for sure. I don't have an issue with my uni-balls really, but the ID of my uni-ball cups on my UCA's are rusting like crazy, so eventually I'll need to address this and when I do, I would definitely consider a nice low maintenance option. I know they say the Delta's give you as much movement as a uni, but TBH, I'd really be fine with just a regular BJ in there. The Uni really gives me too much travel. The UCA touches the coil at full droop. I don't see an issue with that part of it so much, but I have to wonder how happy my CV's are in situation.

I think those ARB skids are pretty for sure and would look nice under my rig. But after doing a little research, it really doesn't seem like they're built to handle a beating at all. Even a light one. I'll think about it.
 
Yeah man, the Delta Joints are an intriguing option for me for sure. I don't have an issue with my uni-balls really, but the ID of my uni-ball cups on my UCA's are rusting like crazy, so eventually I'll need to address this and when I do, I would definitely consider a nice low maintenance option. I know they say the Delta's give you as much movement as a uni, but TBH, I'd really be fine with just a regular BJ in there. The Uni really gives me too much travel. The UCA touches the coil at full droop. I don't see an issue with that part of it so much, but I have to wonder how happy my CV's are in situation.

I think those ARB skids are pretty for sure and would look nice under my rig. But after doing a little research, it really doesn't seem like they're built to handle a beating at all. Even a light one. I'll think about it.

I've been eye balling the JBA UCA's they use factory toyota bushings and a moog ball joint part number that can be picked up at most auto part stores. I installed a pair a few weekends ago on a 5th gen. super freakin simple compared to the LR UCa's
JBA STD High Caster Upper A-arms for 2005-14 Toyota Tacoma, 4Runner, FJ Cruiser
 
since the humidity's been up we haven't really ventured out on the bikes. Mike an CJ picked up some sport quads like a 400ex and a 700xx figured I pick something up to jump in on the fun.

I hear ya. Good to see y'all still adventuring. You do realize that riding quads puts you "out in the humidity" as well yeah? Guess you don't have to work your butt off as much. But where's the fun in that?

It's like Shannon since she's started running with me. She dreads going out in the heat, so she follows the forecast and tells me "Tuesday looks like a good run day". I say "Honey, EVERY day is a good run day."
 
I hear ya. Good to see y'all still adventuring. You do realize that riding quads puts you "out in the humidity" as well yeah? Guess you don't have to work your butt off as much. But where's the fun in that?

It's like Shannon since she's started running with me. She dreads going out in the heat, so she follows the forecast and tells me "Tuesday looks like a good run day". I say "Honey, EVERY day is a good run day."

blah blah blah.. we all know you're superman :cool:
 
213K More little hit list knick-knacks

Spending money with my buddies over at Rock Auto while ordering wiper blades for the other two vehicles, I decided to pick up a few things just because.

Replaced the hood and rear lift gate struts with some Monroe Max Lift units. They weren't completely shot just yet, but definitely due.

Front:

gDnvIZp.jpg


Rear:

pF78w9d.jpg

Notes:
- The rods on the new pieces were a little bigger
- The stock units were KYB's
- Stock units single piece design made them a little more of a pain to deal with when putting tools on them, but not a huge deal
- Have to be careful when opening the rear now, as it opens with some purpose now.
- The rears use a sealing washer on the cab side that the new units didn't come with. They included some chintzy foam tape, which I'm sure would have been destroyed as soon as you screwed the stud in because there was no flat washer. So be sure to re-use those washers.

Also ordered some new Moog swaybar bushings. I noticed what looked like rust coming out of my old ones, so I wanted to check it our and I wanted to get rid of the poly bushings as well. The Moogs are thermoplastic.

Old:

Ln4AC6v.jpg


Old next to new:

ZjV2ETL.jpg

New:

tbkyeya.jpg


The bushings match my coils, yay! That's all. Again, nothing exciting sorry.

A further note on the TPMS thing though. So on the beach trip, the light finally came on blinking maybe like after we were an hour or so away. But when I'm just driving around locally, with the spare just sitting at home, no problem. So, I've still got some figuring out to do here.

I'm sure I'll come across some other little hit list stuff I want to do here shortly, but I'm pretty happy with everything. I'd like to redo all the weather stripping. If anybody has a good source, let me know. Maybe do some sound deadening eventually.

Other than that, the only big to do I've got in front of me is to troubleshoot/repair my locker wiring. It's a good thing I never need it I guess...
 
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The bushings match my coils, yay! That's all. Again, nothing exciting sorry.

A further note on the TPMS thing though. So on the beach trip, the light finally came on blinking maybe like after we were an hour or so away. But when I'm just driving around locally, with the spare just sitting at home, no problem. So, I've still got some figuring out to do here.

I'm sure I'll come across some other little hit list stuff I want to do here shortly, but I'm pretty happy with everything. I'd like to redo all the weather stripping. If anybody has a good source, let me know. Maybe do some sound deadening eventually.

Other than that, the only big to do I've got in front of me is to troubleshoot/repair my locker wiring. It's a good thing I never need it I guess...

have you tried running without the sway bar now that you have the 700's?

bushings do look good with the coils lol

I've been buying bits and pieces of weather striping from villagetoyotaparts.com they seem to be the best price for OEM also they run a lot of 25% off sales and such if you get on there email list.

definitely glad I don't have the TPMS setup, wonder if the anyone at a tire changing shop can program the systems minimum air pressure so that they just never set off?
 
have you tried running without the sway bar now that you have the 700's?

bushings do look good with the coils lol

I've been buying bits and pieces of weather striping from villagetoyotaparts.com they seem to be the best price for OEM also they run a lot of 25% off sales and such if you get on there email list.

definitely glad I don't have the TPMS setup, wonder if the anyone at a tire changing shop can program the systems minimum air pressure so that they just never set off?

Yeah, I did. Still more body roll than I like on the street. Can be a little jarring going from the WRX to the truck because I like carrying speed through corners. It's weird, I've never been able to to be fully happy with this set-up. My old set-up with my blue Foxes and OW rear coils was perfect with a rear sway bar and no front. My new set-up, as soon as I installed it, I tried to keep running without any sways and knew right away, it wasn't going to work. I think these Metal Tech long travel rears have a good bit to do with it. Feel like the OW's were stiffer for sure. I may look into getting the HD coils as a quick cheap fix, but if I start upgrading and replacing parts, it makes me start evaluating everything. You know how it goes. Even with the 700# fronts, while the decreased the body roll significantly, I'm still not sold on going without.

So what ever came of yours? I know you ordered heavier front coils and got hosed or something? Ever get things resolved?

Yeah, I usually buy OEM parts from Village (Conicelli). They're still expensive there. The condition mine are in wouldn't warrant me spending that much. I was looking for a kit that could be had at a reasonable price.

As far as the TPMS goes, I'm not looking for a bypass. I already know how to do that. I want to maintain functionality. They serve a little less of a purpose on this set-up where the tire pressure is set higher than the factory and air seems to always be constant in them, but I don't think TPMS is a bad thing. I know old schoolers are all "just check you tire pressure" and all, but I guess I'm a fan of technology and some idiot lights. Definitely nice to know if you've got a leak or picked something up that needs plugging or patching. Contrary to what others do, I DO NOT check my tire pressure every week or whatever. They've definitely come in handy when my wife and mother-in-laws cars picked up screws. All my cars have backup cameras too. Just because I got along just fine before their existence, doesn't mean I want to give them up.
 
Yeah, I did. Still more body roll than I like on the street. Can be a little jarring going from the WRX to the truck because I like carrying speed through corners. It's weird, I've never been able to to be fully happy with this set-up. My old set-up with my blue Foxes and OW rear coils was perfect with a rear sway bar and no front. My new set-up, as soon as I installed it, I tried to keep running without any sways and knew right away, it wasn't going to work. I think these Metal Tech long travel rears have a good bit to do with it. Feel like the OW's were stiffer for sure. I may look into getting the HD coils as a quick cheap fix, but if I start upgrading and replacing parts, it makes me start evaluating everything. You know how it goes. Even with the 700# fronts, while the decreased the body roll significantly, I'm still not sold on going without.

So what ever came of yours? I know you ordered heavier front coils and got hosed or something? Ever get things resolved?

Yeah, I usually buy OEM parts from Village (Conicelli). They're still expensive there. The condition mine are in wouldn't warrant me spending that much. I was looking for a kit that could be had at a reasonable price.

As far as the TPMS goes, I'm not looking for a bypass. I already know how to do that. I want to maintain functionality. They serve a little less of a purpose on this set-up where the tire pressure is set higher than the factory and air seems to always be constant in them, but I don't think TPMS is a bad thing. I know old schoolers are all "just check you tire pressure" and all, but I guess I'm a fan of technology and some idiot lights. Definitely nice to know if you've got a leak or picked something up that needs plugging or patching. Contrary to what others do, I DO NOT check my tire pressure every week or whatever. They've definitely come in handy when my wife and mother-in-laws cars picked up screws. All my cars have backup cameras too. Just because I got along just fine before their existence, doesn't mean I want to give them up.

My experience with TPMS has been that the light comes on with nothing wrong, then when somethings wrong the light doesn't come on soon enough to warn in time. Great concept but reliability is low IMO. I'm supposed to run 70psi rear 60 front in the GMC an the TPMS doesn't come on until I'm under 50. I still have to keep check if I want to keep it at factory recommended pressures.

I lost motivation to replace my coils/coil-overs. It took metal tech a month to refund my money so by the time I had the funds back my head was in a different place. It sickens me to put any more money into the front suspension. shitty thing is it needs the most work right now. The aftermarket steering rack is garbage along with the AM power steering pump, LR UCA's suck, the 650lb coils are definitely not enough either. Seems like anything I put on this truck that doesn't come from Toyota or costs less than a bar of gold is lacking in performance or quality in some way. I need to pony up and fab it right or sell and step into something I can build less costly. Just cant justify spending anything considering we go wheeling maybe 3 times a year. This setup gets me through those trips so I think until something major breaks I'm just gonna keep dragging the front end over rocks and trading out rock auto steering pumps.

I did buy a Kawasaki Brute Force 750i EPS quad yesterday :hungry: so I got that going for me now lol
 
My experience with TPMS has been that the light comes on with nothing wrong, then when somethings wrong the light doesn't come on soon enough to warn in time. Great concept but reliability is low IMO. I'm supposed to run 70psi rear 60 front in the GMC an the TPMS doesn't come on until I'm under 50. I still have to keep check if I want to keep it at factory recommended pressures.

I lost motivation to replace my coils/coil-overs. It took metal tech a month to refund my money so by the time I had the funds back my head was in a different place. It sickens me to put any more money into the front suspension. shitty thing is it needs the most work right now. The aftermarket steering rack is garbage along with the AM power steering pump, LR UCA's suck, the 650lb coils are definitely not enough either. Seems like anything I put on this truck that doesn't come from Toyota or costs less than a bar of gold is lacking in performance or quality in some way. I need to pony up and fab it right or sell and step into something I can build less costly. Just cant justify spending anything considering we go wheeling maybe 3 times a year. This setup gets me through those trips so I think until something major breaks I'm just gonna keep dragging the front end over rocks and trading out rock auto steering pumps.

I did buy a Kawasaki Brute Force 750i EPS quad yesterday :hungry: so I got that going for me now lol

I agree with all of that about throwing parts at it, especially the shit-parts portion. That's why my motivation is low too, because if I went with HD rear coils right now, I'd want to look at upgrading the shocks to some 2.5's with resi's or something. And wheel all know the slip of that slope. Also agree, on the part about for the amount we actually wheel them any more, they're plenty adequate. Even with my locker being in-op right now and for a couple of our last trips, I get around just fine. Did notice a gnarly shot mine took on the LCA mount while I was under there last weekend. Probably should have bent it back out, but I didn't.

Yeah, I saw you picked up your quad. That's cool man, hope y'all have a blast.
 
I agree with all of that about throwing parts at it, especially the shit-parts portion. That's why my motivation is low too, because if I went with HD rear coils right now, I'd want to look at upgrading the shocks to some 2.5's with resi's or something. And wheel all know the slip of that slope. Also agree, on the part about for the amount we actually wheel them any more, they're plenty adequate. Even with my locker being in-op right now and for a couple of our last trips, I get around just fine. Did notice a gnarly shot mine took on the LCA mount while I was under there last weekend. Probably should have bent it back out, but I didn't.

Yeah, I saw you picked up your quad. That's cool man, hope y'all have a blast.

thanks man, I got to enjoy a little teaser session last night at Cj's he's got a few trails through his woods. It was immediately apparent I haven't handled one of these things in 11 years! Humidity or not this things kickin my ass more than my Mountain bike will come close to.
 
Did I just read the entire build and not see a dual battery setup? So few V8 examples. Your Runner is a BAMF!


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Did I just read the entire build and not see a dual battery setup? So few V8 examples. Your Runner is a BAMF!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lady V, thanks for stopping in!! And kudos if you made it through the entire thread. Lot's of BS'ing going on in here. We turned it into a chat thread basically.

No, dual battery set up for me and my purposes. My Optima yellow top seems plenty sufficient to run the winch, stereo system, light bar and pods, and e-locker. Especially for as little cycling the locker and winch get. Also, I don't do any camping or anything in the rig. If anything on the electrical side, I'd probably opt to put one of those accessory stand alone fuse boxes and switch panels, but that's probably it for me.

Did you have particular questions about a dual batt set-up? Most people install the second battery in that obvious void over the passenger wheel well toward the firewall.

With any questions on 4Runner builds, I usually refer to Dave's (@Dawg4Runner) build. Check it out, if for some reason (and I don't know how) you haven't seen it already. That build may be one of the OG builds, but it is still the benchmark/holy grail for mid-travel bolt-on builds IMO.

Thanks for checking in and for the compliment! Good luck!
 
Lady V, thanks for stopping in!! And kudos if you made it through the entire thread. Lot's of BS'ing going on in here. We turned it into a chat thread basically.



No, dual battery set up for me and my purposes. My Optima yellow top seems plenty sufficient to run the winch, stereo system, light bar and pods, and e-locker. Especially for as little cycling the locker and winch get. Also, I don't do any camping or anything in the rig. If anything on the electrical side, I'd probably opt to put one of those accessory stand alone fuse boxes and switch panels, but that's probably it for me.



Did you have particular questions about a dual batt set-up? Most people install the second battery in that obvious void over the passenger wheel well toward the firewall.



With any questions on 4Runner builds, I usually refer to Dave's (@Dawg4Runner) build. Check it out, if for some reason (and I don't know how) you haven't seen it already. That build may be one of the OG builds, but it is still the benchmark/holy grail for mid-travel bolt-on builds IMO.



Thanks for checking in and for the compliment! Good luck!



I just love your build so reading through it was a joy. Dawg's build is gorgeous as well. I've just been trying to find 4th gen V8 dual battery examples that don't involve Odyssey or Optima. I know a group 34 will fit behind the air box but I'm wondering what else is out there that's been done. I've even thought about modifying the intake to make more room but I really do not want to do that. Also, do you know if the MAF sensor can be rotated 180 degrees without issue?

I'll be installing my 31 and upgrading cable and installing a fuse block and such until I make definitive plans on a 2nd battery. That way I'll just need to throw my smart isolator in and wire up the batteries when the time comes.

Love these builds!


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I just love your build so reading through it was a joy. Dawg's build is gorgeous as well. I've just been trying to find 4th gen V8 dual battery examples that don't involve Odyssey or Optima. I know a group 34 will fit behind the air box but I'm wondering what else is out there that's been done. I've even thought about modifying the intake to make more room but I really do not want to do that. Also, do you know if the MAF sensor can be rotated 180 degrees without issue?

I'll be installing my 31 and upgrading cable and installing a fuse block and such until I make definitive plans on a 2nd battery. That way I'll just need to throw my smart isolator in and wire up the batteries when the time comes.

Love these builds!


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Well thanks!

So are you just trying to figure out the largest size case you can cram in there?

I'm having trouble picturing what you'd be able to gain, room wise, with an intake mod. What where you thinking about trying? You might could look to some aftermarket CAI's to save some space. I'm pretty sure the MAF sensor is directional. I think I've even seen some (if not ours) that have an arrow to show you the flow direction as well as, IIRC, the bolt holes are staggered to dummy proof them from being installed the wrong way.

Sounds like you've got a good handle or at least idea of direction you're heading. I'm admittedly electrical dumb TBH. You probably know way more than me about it. Hell you went through and fixed your own T-Case. I know more mechanically inclined guys than myself, that declined to tackle that job.

But now that I think about it, my fox body mustang did have a dual battery set up in it. I didn't build that car though. They where in the trunk placed behind each tire for weight distribution. But that car had electric cooling fans, water pump, and fuel pump. I think I replaced the alternator and both batteries in my short tenure as owner so the setup was probably shit.
 
Well thanks!



So are you just trying to figure out the largest size case you can cram in there?



I'm having trouble picturing what you'd be able to gain, room wise, with an intake mod. What where you thinking about trying? You might could look to some aftermarket CAI's to save some space. I'm pretty sure the MAF sensor is directional. I think I've even seen some (if not ours) that have an arrow to show you the flow direction as well as, IIRC, the bolt holes are staggered to dummy proof them from being installed the wrong way.



Sounds like you've got a good handle or at least idea of direction you're heading. I'm admittedly electrical dumb TBH. You probably know way more than me about it. Hell you went through and fixed your own T-Case. I know more mechanically inclined guys than myself, that declined to tackle that job.



But now that I think about it, my fox body mustang did have a dual battery set up in it. I didn't build that car though. They where in the trunk placed behind each tire for weight distribution. But that car had electric cooling fans, water pump, and fuel pump. I think I replaced the alternator and both batteries in my short tenure as owner so the setup was probably shit.



The orientation of the MAF must have been changed by Toyota then. I've seen numerous pics of it rotated in the opposite direction but that could have been a post-VVTI change. Yes, I'm trying to cram the biggest battery I can up against the firewall. I don't want to relocate outside the engine compartment. I went ahead and ordered everything to keep it a single battery setup with breaker, fuse block, etc. That way I get what I want for now and I'll just wire up the second battery when I finally make a decision.


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Dobinsons C59-677V Rear Variable Rate Coil Springs

I've just spent several days repairing and rebuilding this thread thanks to the Photobucket debacle. Absolutely frustrating and I hope that they get what they deserve for that move. A lot of guys are feeling this frustration and have just said eff it, but I couldn't let this thread die. After 46 pages and 5 and a half years worth of information, history and memories, this thing has truly become a labor of love. It was kind of nice and nostalgic getting to take a trip through the thread while rebuilding. I got to see the evolution of the truck, my kids being born, vacations, my old bulldog, making friends for life, etc. Was kind of neat, so in a way, I guess I'm thankful for Photobucket for that. I've not messed with any of my other forums, but this one is too special to me.

This latest mod sort of culminated over the last couple of weeks. This weekend I have a trip up into the mountains (windy roads) for a Spartan race. My truck in it's current configuration exhibited more body roll than I cared for. It's not unmanageable, but for a truck that has been 100% street driven for the past few years, going back and forth between the WRX and truck can be a little jarring with my driving style. So to remedy this, I launched a couple of casual searches to dig up my rear sway bar... And was unsuccessful. I might have tossed it in the dumpster at some point. So Bobby suggested that I should look into swapping out my Medium Duty Metaltech Coils for some Heavy Duties like he has. Sure, why not? So to be clear, I like my Medium Duties. They ride nice, great lift height, and work nice, and if I was able to locate that sway bar, I would have solved my body roll issue with parts I had and called it a day.

So I looked into the Metaltech HD coils and as somebody who hasn't shopped suspension in a while found out that they do not offer two different coils any more, but now sell what they call their NextGen spring. This new coil supposedly provides the ride of the MD springs while being able to support weight like the HD using lessons learned from the previous generation of coils. They would cost me about $250 shipped.

Before pulling that trigger, I figured I'd browse the forum classifieds really quick, just to see what was out there. Actually came across a sale thread with some HD coils and within that thread was a GX guy looking for MD coils. So I proposed a 3 way transaction. While I awaited a response, ANOTHER GX guy reached out about purchasing my MD coils. Apparently, the no longer available, MT MD coils are highly sought after in the GX community, because they're a great pairing for air-ride converted trucks. So a little back and forth with this gentlemen and he suggested I look into some Dobinsons coils. Again, having been pretty out of the game for a while, I'd never heard of them. They're a pretty new player in the US market. This being the case, meant that there wasn't much available information or reviews. What I did find was an armored 5th gen that swapped out some MT HD coils for some heavy duty Dobinsons because they handled the weight better in his application. What I also found was that the Dobi's were $195 shipped from Amazon vs the $250 Metaltechs. This meant I could basically swap out for even, or damn near even, money. Being the guy that likes to be a little different as well as usually willing to try new things, I decided to pull the trigger on the Dobi's and my Metaltech buyer and I worked out a deal that worked out for all parties.

My fear going in though was that I would end up way too ass high and/or with a punishing ride since I don't really have any weight out back.

And away we go. Ordered them Wednesday. Shipped same day from FL and received them Friday. Installed them Sunday (Yesterday).

Install took about an hour with my buddy. I've done so many of these, I think I could do it blindfolded now. Having that much travel out back, does provide some unique challenges. Having two floor jacks would be great, which I don't. That's because no matter how I position everything, I can't get the body to lift high enough to get a tire up, so I have to jack the axle itself up first to get the tires off and then re-position it to give the axle enough room to come far enough down to get the coils in and out. Not a big deal. I made do. If I had something to use as a lift block for my jack, that would work, but I didn't have anything tall enough handy. I took a trip to Harbor Freight prior to the job to pick up some spring compressors (which I never ended up using) and a jack spreader beam that gave me about 5 more inches of jack height (not enough).

Old next to new:

ceMU9n6h.jpg


The Dobinsons didn't appear to be side specific like the Metaltech NextGens. I just stuck the longer of the two (minimal difference) on the driver side. Next to the MT's the Dobinsons where a little taller in free height and while it my be hard to tell, I think the wire diameter is a little bigger as well. Obviously the rates are pretty different. What I did observe is that, the MT coils had not sagged at all when I took a pre-measurement so that's nice. I think they have about 26k total miles on them. Also, was able to clearly see that the lower rate section of the MT's (where the coil is wound tightest) is completely blocked (coil on coil) at ride height and will not come into play until the suspension goes into droop. This was by design. The Dobinsons do not do this. The coil seems to work in a smoother progressive pattern by design.

Driver side in. No fuss. Took a little to get the axle low enough to get the coil to pop out because I had a Daystar spacer on top of this one. Had to unhook the e-brake bracket because I ran out of slack. Only unhooked the upper stem of the shock. Old bottle jack trick made it easy peasy:

P6pk2jch.jpg


Bounced on the back then took her for a short drive. Right away it felt phenomenal. Back home:

Z5Scer6h.jpg


Looks like I gained about 1" of lift over the Metaltechs (even the the DS spacer on top of the one).

Coils installed from the underside rear:

r55IZwlh.jpg


Trying to stretch out in the yard as good as I can. She never broke a sweat here:

JLRPjH7h.jpg


I7Rcirbh.jpg


8MHjcGEh.jpg


Then took her down a nearby power line road for a little shakedown.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

The Good:
- Good Value
- Quality Product
- I'm ready for additional load
- Exactly the ride I was after

The Bad:
- Um... That I didn't do it sooner
- That I actually had to install them and they didn't install themselves? (I'm fishing here)

Overall:
I'm not sure if I could be any more pleased. Exact outcome I was looking for. All fears alleviated. Drives amazing on and off road. Very, very pleased with this move.

For those that don't know, it looks like Dobinsons offers 1", 2", and 3" lift coils for our applications, with different load range and travel length specs for each ride height offering. So far, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend these one bit. Only time will tell regarding long term usage, but it's coil springs. I don't see much going wrong here.

I've had a hankering to upgrade to a 2.5" rear shock, possibly with remote lately. When/if Dobinsons releases their MRR shock that's on their 5th Gen, I'm going to give this some serious consideration.

Thanks for looking!

UPDATE 7/31/17

Took them up the mountain over the weekend and wow! I couldn't be more satisfied. Exactly what I was looking for. Through the sweeping winding mountain roads at speed, they were confidence inspiring. Much less white knuckle driving than before. Bounced along some decent gravel roads, without issue. Felt nice and compliant. Took the route of Highway 9 from the house in Bat Cave to the race venue in Black Mountain know as "Sidewinder" and it was glorious. Lot's of hairpins and switchbacks. Truck chewed them up so much so, that a motorcycle actually had to pull over and let me by lol. I did get eaten up by a Subaru though lol. I'll definitely be taking this drive in the Subie in the future. Funnest I've been on in a very long time.
 
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