October 2019 Update
Build is still slowly progressing and picking momentum back up. Chewing through maintenance type stuff and doing some fun stuff along the way.
HVAC DAMPER SERVOS
Preface: This is something that's been on the docket for several years. The only symptom that I was experiencing though, was a rapid clicking coming from behind the dash every once in a while. All modes were working as well as both hot and cold, but they were probably on the way out. I dug into it back in the day and once I saw the location of these things and how little access you had to the fasteners, I was like "nope"... and buttoned her back up to face another day.
That day finally rolled around with the courage gained from reading
this write up. Thank you [MENTION=113703]46runner[/MENTION] for providing a great service to our community.
Ordered these guys (OEM) from ebay for under $192 total. Came in quick and looked good:
The Culprits in the wild:
The most difficult to access screw for me (lower motor, rearmost screw) as seen through the access window above the cabin filter (lower right screw in picture):
I sort of did like the write-up OP did and slip the upper motor from the bracket (left the rear screw alone).
The
bottom however was definitely more challenging. I believe what I ended up doing was sort of pivoting it around while still hanging from that rear screw that I couldn't get too, then cutting the leg of the bracket off with some snips so that I could get better access to that screw to remove it. Then installed the new assembly.
A shot of the tab that holds the plastic cam for the upper motor to the D-shaft, in case anybody has trouble releasing it:
New next to old:
Just a couple of notes from my experience from doing the job and using the mentioned write-up.
- I did not drill a hole through the side of the air box like mentioned. Do I think it would have helped? Maybe. I don't think I really had the right tools to pop a hole in the same location.
- I did replace the bastard screw with a hex bolt as suggested. But I'm not 100% convinced that it would help me if I had to do the job again. Having said that, if this set lasts me another 14 or so years, I'd be happy.
- First time I installed the upper assembly and tested it out, I did not get it right (of course). You've got 3 grooves that you need to hit in that plastic cam pictured above and pretty sure I missed the damper that controls the modes, as I had air through the front vents and no defrost or feet. Also had hot and cold so bottom servo was good to go. Not only that, but before I realized what all happened, I apparently did get the peg for the re-circulation mode in the right place. Which lowered this bellows and impaired my access to fix the mistake when I went back in:
What I found was that I was a lot easier to line the pegs up with the cam grooves by just putting the cam on (removed from the motor) by itself and then clicking the motor onto the cam. Also pro-tip; make sure the truck is in the "fresh" mode, not "re-circ." in order to get better access to everything. Once you unplug the motors, I did not find it possible to manually roll the bellows back.
- Small note, but the write-up said that my "gun compartment" was held on by the two visible upper screws, but there was actually two additional lower ones on mine. Found out when I pulled on mine and it didn't budge. Pictured here (center of picture and blurry):
Overall I think it took me a couple of hours. Everything works as it should and no more clicking.
MORE VINYL?
This one was a fail. Just putting it in here for my purposes. Ordered a sheet of gloss white vinyl with the idea of wrapping the front of my hood to cover up all the rock chips as well as wrap the bumper to change the look up a bit. At first glance after the roll arrived, I thought the color matched pretty damn well. But after laying down the first piece, I realized how off the color was and lost my nerve as my OCD wouldn't let me carry on. Moving on.
AJT DESIGNS KEY FOB CASE
I've wrecked two OEM key fob cases like everyone else by breaking the loop. Bought an aftermarket one that seemed to be of a different plastic and the loop held up, but the actually halves where they clipped together failed. I never liked that one anyway. It seemed like the panic button was not recessed as far as it should have been, causing a lot of inadvertent triggers. Very annoying. And once the thing started coming apart, it quit working all together. So I ordered this beauty:
Pretty straight forward product. I like the look a lot. Sort of expensive. My only knocks would be, they are a tad bulky and I'm never really a fan of threading plastic, because I'm almost always guaranteed to strip it. Other than that, I'm happy with it.
TPMS BYPASS
In my last post I wrote about wanting to retain TPMS functionality and in this one, I've performed the bypass using
this post lol. But there's a reason. Like others who wrote in the write-up, I should have done it a long time ago.
I did not use the SkotchLok method or peel back the insulation. Just jumped the two pins with a paper clip. Done deal:
NEW MEATS
So in a move that I was planning to make eventually anyway, I had an opportunity fall in my lap that I couldn't pass up. I stumbled upon an ad in FB marketplace posted by a guy who had a practically new BF Goodrich KM3 setup in 315/75R16 who had them on a 3rd Gen for about 3K miles and sold it for a 5th gen. He was looking to move to 17's with 33's. Though my tires were older, I figured it couldn't hurt to ask. Worse he could say was no. Well he didn't. We live on opposite sides of the city, so the original plan was to meet at a tire shop central to us so that I could have my TPMS sensors swapped over and have them balanced before install. After thinking about it, I remember that Austin had a similar set-up and had issues with the back of wheel clearing the face of the front caliper. These came on Pro Comp Rock Crawler Xtreme Steel Street Lock wheels, the good ole' steel D-window wheels with simulated "bead locks". Funny for a dude who doesn't care much for the bead lock look, how all of my aftermarket wheels have had some bolt heads sticking out of the rim in some form or another. These obviously weren't my first choice in wheel, but beggars can't be choosers in this instance. They weren't too different than my current set up TBH.
So in order to be able to be able to adapt to any unforeseen circumstances, we figured out that we'd better do it at his house thereby opting out of retaining my TPMS (See above). I drove up straight after work, still in work clothes. Didn't pack any tools. Best case, we put the wheels on, they fit, I go home.
Worst case, the wheels don't clear my calipers, I have to install my old Bora wheels spacers which I just got back from Austin a few weeks earlier since he never installed them and didn't need them anymore, which would require me to re-stud with my short studs. After a quick glance and both agreeing to go for the swap, we got to work. The KM3's were definitely not hurt. My luck of course, we found out right away, that the wheel didn't clear the caliper. So working with the limited tools we were able to scrounge up, I went to work. Pulled the calipers and rotors, smacked out the old studs with the little mallet that we had and drew the short ones in. Beat the sunset and got the job done.
Last shot on the old set up:
And the new goodness:
Took them to a local Discount Tire the next day to have them balanced, as there was a little vibration on my drive home. They reinforced my love for the chain as the guy did it for free even though I didn't buy the tires from them because I've been a loyal customer and have spent so much money with those guys over the years. Love those guys. He told me the wheels were bent, which is probably why I experience a little vibration at certain resonances.
The wheels were in pretty rough shape, so I spent this past weekend polishing four turds and painted all of the fasteners black. Not perfect but they look a million percent better than they did and blacking out the fasteners gave it nice tactical look. I started to outline the letters white like I had don't with my MT/R's but aborted mission when I realized my marker was way to fat to hit just the thin outline.
My initial impressions on the tires so far; first off, these are the quietest mud tires I've ever ridden. They legit sound like an all-terrain, which is what a lot of people said in my research, but of course I had to experience it to believe it. I LOVED my MT/R's. I had that set-up dialed in and the truck rode perfect, but my only knock is that they are pretty loud. Not that it bothered me, but facts are facts. The KM3's ride pretty good and so far wet and dry traction is at least on par with the MT/R's. I've heard that the KO2's are pretty doodoo in the rain. If I've lost on anything I'd have to say that they don't seem to handle as well as the MT/R's. I'd suspect that this is a result of the stiff Kevlar sidewalls. They just rode really tight. I'd say that these are a little more floaty even though they are supposed to have really stiff side walls. Haven't wheeled them yet, but I assume they will be stellar off road. Will report back soon hopefully. Fuel mileage doesn't appear to have taken a hit so far, but time will tell. This set-up is actually the same weight as my 20" Rockstars and Mud Grapps. They look mean as hell. Definitely the best looking MT on the market IMO. And this look is definitely reminiscent of [MENTION=65653]aha2988[/MENTION] 's King Sling.
Okay, I'll leave it at that for now. It's been a long enough post. More to come folks.
