SuperPro LCA

I don't recommend Vivid Racing. You can look at their reviews and see a lot that says they don't update you on your parts without you contacting them, this is 100% true.

It was 2 weeks before any contact was made after ordering, which I had to initiate. Another 2 weeks went by after initial contact, saying they would update me, no word back. After a month, I finally hear something, in which they ask me to pay more $$ for shipping to get it to me in the next 3-4 days from Australia. I defer and they offer to cover it (mind you this is a month after ordering). Never received tracking number [they put a signature on everything fyi] until it I got a letter on my door from FedEx saying I had missed a delivery (surprise!).

Pretty much everything that is covered in reviews, sadly happen with me as well. Ignore the nice site, order elsewhere. In the end, they stepped up and did the right thing but this has clearly been going on for awhile based on their reviews.



After a few months with them, how do you like the SuperPros?

Leaning towards buying a pair.
 
Installed the SuperPro’s last night.

Extremely impressed. The inner sleeve is captured, but not bonded to the poly. With the alignment cams torqued, the arms swing freely. Everything fit great, and so far I’m very impressed with the quality.

I installed these with JBA UCA’s.

I requested ~4.2 degrees of caster and slight negative camber. They got it just right! All 4 alignment cams are almost centered. Tons of adjustment in any direction.

e9513e4c89e0d773453a7ddf7241927f.jpg


baaa1e66bf14fefb7211ecfd0f0d4862.jpg


5538bc6f079a5e1290420dc3135c2ab2.jpg


-Rob


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



What made you go with ~4.2 degrees of caster and slight negative camber?
 
What made you go with ~4.2 degrees of caster and slight negative camber?



At least in the drifting world if you have a slight negative camber when the wheels are pointed straight ahead then at full lock the tire will be “flat” with the ground. Although normally you’d see -1.5 or “less” degrees of camber to actually make a difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
At least in the drifting world if you have a slight negative camber when the wheels are pointed straight ahead then at full lock the tire will be “flat” with the ground. Although normally you’d see -1.5 or “less” degrees of camber to actually make a difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you.

How are you liking the SuperPros thus far?
 
I'm installing the Superpro double offset LCA right now. I got them in fine however, I'm having clearance issues with the outboard CVboot clamp. I'm using a worm drive clamp and at full drop (when on jack stands) the worm drive housing hits the lower control arm. I think when compressed it will be ok but I'd hate to be wheeling and at full drop break off my clamp and have my boot come lose.

anyone have this issue? You think an alignment will fix this or do i need to get the OEM clamp which is probably not as tall?

Not my pic or actual pic. Just a pic I found online for illustration purposes. I'll take a pic of my rig later.

Ln3qAyq.png
 
I'm installing the Superpro double offset LCA right now. I got them in fine however, I'm having clearance issues with the outboard CVboot clamp. I'm using a worm drive clamp and at full drop (when on jack stands) the worm drive housing hits the lower control arm. I think when compressed it will be ok but I'd hate to be wheeling and at full drop break off my clamp and have my boot come lose.

anyone have this issue? You think an alignment will fix this or do i need to get the OEM clamp which is probably not as tall?

Not my pic or actual pic. Just a pic I found online for illustration purposes. I'll take a pic of my rig later.

Ln3qAyq.png
Either rotate the clamp and tighten it where it won't make contact with anything (probably facing front or rear), or use a thinner OEM type clamp.
 
I'm installing the Superpro double offset LCA right now. I got them in fine however, I'm having clearance issues with the outboard CVboot clamp. I'm using a worm drive clamp and at full drop (when on jack stands) the worm drive housing hits the lower control arm. I think when compressed it will be ok but I'd hate to be wheeling and at full drop break off my clamp and have my boot come lose.

anyone have this issue? You think an alignment will fix this or do i need to get the OEM clamp which is probably not as tall?

Not my pic or actual pic. Just a pic I found online for illustration purposes. I'll take a pic of my rig later.

Ln3qAyq.png

Ok upon further inspection, it seems that the LCA that were sent to me are SLIGHTLY different than my stock LCAs.

My stock LCA is stamped with "L7" and "R7" right where the lower ball joint attaches to the LCA.

The new Superpro ones are stamped with "L6" and "R6" and upon comparing them closely, the raised section where the lower ball joint attaches is taller on my OEM one compared to the Superpro one. I'll post pics later.

Good thing my old LCA wasnt frozen and I didn't cut it off. I'll just have to reinstall it and reachout to Superpro. :(
 
Either rotate the clamp and tighten it where it won't make contact with anything (probably facing front or rear), or use a thinner OEM type clamp.

yeh, i was going to install the OEM clamps as I have a set laying around. However, I think it will still be close as there is still a "hump" protruding from the OEM clamp. Also, at full droop, the boot gets AWFUL close to the LCA.

Also, my previous post about the LCA differences concern me (R6,L6 vs R7,L7).
 
How much you pay for these? I've seen them range for 750-800. Close to OEM but these bushings look a lot more durable.
I ordered a set of mevotech supreme LCAs. Hopefully they hold up long enough for me to swap out the bushings on my oem ones.

One of my mevotech cheapies from rock auto already tore a boot. They work fine, and have a lifetime warranty, but rockauto won't just send a new boot! They said send the whole thing back and they'll give me a new one. Crazy, right? I chose to just spend $6 on a replacement boot and I'll eventually get it on there. Technically, they say no guarantee on lifted or modified vehicles so no worries.
 
[MENTION=110194]Wozzy[/MENTION] [MENTION=275542]RivMan[/MENTION] [MENTION=101325]rdruss[/MENTION] [MENTION=450744]Silver Stallion[/MENTION][MENTION=27328]joshik[/MENTION] You guys still liking these LCA’s?
 
Last edited:
Yep, I shipped back the LCA and just rebuilt my OEM ones with new OEM bushings and a balljoint kit.

Cool thanks for the update! We’re you able to figure out what was wrong, did they just sent you the wrong ones? Or was it really that bad of a fit? Thanks for your feedback!
 
Cool thanks for the update! We’re you able to figure out what was wrong, did they just sent you the wrong ones? Or was it really that bad of a fit? Thanks for your feedback!

I think they just have one model. Not sure what the issue was. If you look at the arms carefully you can see the difference from the OEM arms but also taking measurements with calipers, angle finders, etc. the measurements are not the same dimensionally.

I would not have noticed initially but after I installed the arms I checking out my outboard CV boot and noticed that the clamp hit the lower arm. This is at extreme full droop of course so when driving it would have been ok. But when wheeling... could have hit especially when at full flex or a tire off the ground.

One thing to note is that I am not using OEM CV clamps but stainless wormdrive clamps which are ever so slightly taller (at the clamp part) than OEM. However, I never had clearance issues with my OEM lower arms.

I really wanted it to work out because I liked their eccentric bolt design... but oh well.
 
… after I installed the arms I checking out my outboard CV boot and noticed that the clamp hit the lower arm. This is at extreme full droop of course so when driving it would have been ok. But when wheeling... could have hit especially when at full flex or a tire off the ground.

One thing to note is that I am not using OEM CV clamps but stainless wormdrive clamps which are ever so slightly taller (at the clamp part) than OEM. However, I never had clearance issues with my OEM lower arms.

I really wanted it to work out because I liked their eccentric bolt design... but oh well.

Thanks for the feedback I’m a rookie I’m just trying to understand.. would it still have hit if you rotated the clamp? Or was there some reason you didn’t want to rotate the clamp?
 
[MENTION=110194]Wozzy[/MENTION] [MENTION=275542]RivMan[/MENTION] [MENTION=101325]rdruss[/MENTION] [MENTION=450744]Silver Stallion[/MENTION][MENTION=27328]joshik[/MENTION] You guys still liking these LCA’s?

Mine are ok, but one of the LCA bushings have failed after ~40k hard miles. I'm working with SuperPro on a warranty replacement.

Thank you
-Rob
 
Mine are ok, but one of the LCA bushings have failed after ~40k hard miles. I'm working with SuperPro on a warranty replacement.

Thank you
-Rob

Great to know Keep us up to date on how this goes if they honor the warranty or not.

I’m in the market right now to replace my LCAs and some of the things mentioned here and in other chats have me on the fence which route to go. Granted 40k miles is a heck of a lot better than some aftermarket bushings which I’m hearing that some are failing after only 7k miles… yikes! I will say the switch out of a bushing on a Superpro LCA seems much more user friendly than an OEM LCA bushing. Thanks for the feedback [MENTION=275542]RivMan[/MENTION]
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,046
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top