Suspension Click

[WEAK_E90]

ISSUE FOUND!!!!!!! TRD SKID PLATE NEEDED TO BE TIGHTENED BEYOND TORQUE SPEC

So i finally found some more time to dive back into this. The car goes in for service on Thursday and hoping I dont have to ask a dealer to troubleshoot it and fix it myself.

I had the wife jump in the car, my driveway is slightly down hill and if you jab the brakes you can recreate the noise I am hearing when I go over bumps as in my OP.

The noise is not coming from the UCA (my original thought was the ball joint on the UCA had play...) but when I stood right next to it and actually had my had on it when she did this, theres nothing (thinking I would "feel" the noise). It sounds like its up by the sway bar (when it goes in front of the car) if not up a little more... I noticed there was a support bracket under there I want to take off the shield and try tightening that up...

Something I did notice - my sway bar links were really tight (the bolts) online I read somewhere they should be at 24ft lbs (what I read)? I didnt do my suspension install but I remember spelling out every torque spec for my buddy when were were wrapping everything up.

Sway bar bushings looks to be in great shape. No rips, twisting. I sprayed them down with LPS grease last night before heading into work this morning... Unfortunately no change.

What can I check tonight? :lol:

VIDEO:
https://youtu.be/9R46UfIVbqg

ORIGINAL POST:
So I have approx 31k miles.

Aftermarket suspension (bills 5100 with springs) SPC uca's, and diff drop - entire setup maybe 12k on them. Installed by a shop.

Starting a couple a couple of weeks ago I noticed a clicking sound coming from the wheel area. What started as a once in a while to me now is a lot (probably cause I'm listening for it)

It's a small click sound. Kind of like metal on metal but best way to put it would be take a screw driver and tap your frame.

When does it happen:
Smaller bumps. I have to go over 2 speed bumps at work. I fly over them I can't hear it. But if I roll on to them softly as the suspension loads and unloads I hear click, then click. I also noticed coming home from the gym if I brake hard I can hear it and accelerate I can hear it (shift in weight of the car). Turning sometimes does it too (mainly on the drivers side).

No sounds from the rear only front.

So my basic knowledge tells me it's the sway bar end links... looking for maybe some more input. With only 31k could my end links go that quick?

I'm hoping this weekend to disconnect it and go around the block to listen but curious what else I could check? again I know def the car didn't make this before after the suspension was done as I was a freak listening for anything to take it back.

Thanks in advance

 

[Boyds4Runner]

So my basic knowledge tells me it's the sway bar end links... looking for maybe some more input. With only 31k could my end links go that quick?

Thanks in advance

The sway bar links on mine seemed to go quickly on both this one and my previous 2004 SR5. I replaced my own links on the SR5 and comparing how loose the originals were to the new ones was pretty obvious.

Having had that experience I keep checking the ones on the 2015 and I can move them by hand pretty easily now compared to when they were new. Just grab the middle of the link or one of the ends and twist. A good push might break it free and make it move, once moving it is easier to keep moving but they should not flop easily back and forth.

I will say that when mine were loose on the SR5 promoting the replacement I was getting lots of clunking but not clicking as you described.

Based on the description I am wondering if it's not one of the cam bolts for either the after-market UCA or the LCA. When was the last time an alignment job was performed? Maybe an alignment would mean the service tech would re-tighten to torque specs.

Just my thoughts, hope you find it easily enough and let us know what it turned out to be.

 

[WEAK_E90]

The sway bar links on mine seemed to go quickly on both this one and my previous 2004 SR5. I replaced my own links on the SR5 and comparing how loose the originals were to the new ones was pretty obvious.

Having had that experience I keep checking the ones on the 2015 and I can move them by hand pretty easily now compared to when they were new. Just grab the middle of the link or one of the ends and twist. A good push might break it free and make it move, once moving it is easier to keep moving but they should not flop easily back and forth.

I will say that when mine were loose on the SR5 promoting the replacement I was getting lots of clunking but not clicking as you described.

Based on the description I am wondering if it's not one of the cam bolts for either the after-market UCA or the LCA. When was the last time an alignment job was performed? Maybe an alignment would mean the service tech would re-tighten to torque specs.

Just my thoughts, hope you find it easily enough and let us know what it turned out to be.

It's funny you asked about the alignment. I just had one done last week Thursday. Greased the ucas too!

Thank you for the help. When I did as you said the drivers was a little stuck. It also leaked some tan grease out when I turned it all the way one way... guessing that shouldn't happen... compared to the pass. Drivers was more difficult noticeably.

How should they be?

 

[WEAK_E90]

 

[Boyds4Runner]

Yeah...there should't be anything leaking out like that in your picture! Maybe some "weeping" but not a glob squirted out like that lol!

Sway bar links are pretty easy to replace on your own. Do them in pairs. Might as well do the sway bar mount bushings as well for a complete job. Understandable if you don't want to replace those if it's just to get the clicking noise to go away with the link replacement.

One thing to look out for is that if the nut on the upper one attached to the steering link spins without loosening it's because the bolt is spinning with it. There should be an allen wrench that fits at the open end of the bolt to hold that in place while your wrench the nut free. Other than that they are pretty easy to replace.

 

[WEAK_E90]

Yeah...there should't be anything leaking out like that in your picture! Maybe some "weeping" but not a glob squirted out like that lol!

Sway bar links are pretty easy to replace on your own. Do them in pairs. Might as well do the sway bar mount bushings as well for a complete job. Understandable if you don't want to replace those if it's just to get the clicking noise to go away with the link replacement.

One thing to look out for is that if the nut on the upper one attached to the steering link spins without loosening it's because the bolt is spinning with it. There should be an allen wrench that fits at the open end of the bolt to hold that in place while your wrench the nut free. Other than that they are pretty easy to replace.

Appreciate the help!

Are there any brands you would recommend or is OEM all about it? I was going to look for poly bushings for the sway bar.

 

[Boyds4Runner]

No problem, I like to offer information when I can as so many others have helped me out on this forum!

I don't think there is any "improved" sway bar links over OEM but when I replaced my links on the SR5 I just got them from Napa Auto Parts. OEM should work just as well. I ended up going with whatever shop had them in stock as I wanted them for the weekend to install.

A few folks on this forum have designed their own Sway-Bar links but I don't know that they are still producing them.

I only know this from stories, but I think Poly-Urethane bushings get squeaky over time unless you take them out and lube them every once-in-a-while as there are no zerk fittings to lube the mounts. The factory ones should be good enough and certainly not squeaky, maybe save some money there over the Polys?

POST EDIT: Just saw you were looking at polyethylene and not polyurethane. I don't know anything about those.

 

[WEAK_E90]

No problem, I like to offer information when I can as so many others have helped me out on this forum!

I don't think there is any "improved" sway bar links over OEM but when I replaced my links on the SR5 I just got them from Napa Auto Parts. OEM should work just as well. I ended up going with whatever shop had them in stock as I wanted them for the weekend to install.

A few folks on this forum have designed their own Sway-Bar links but I don't know that they are still producing them.

I only know this from stories, but I think Poly-Urethane bushings get squeaky over time unless you take them out and lube them every once-in-a-while as there are no zerk fittings to lube the mounts. The factory ones should be good enough and certainly not squeaky, maybe save some money there over the Polys?

POST EDIT: Just saw you were looking at polyethylene and not polyurethane. I don't know anything about those.

Hey so coming in from work I decided to take a video. I didnt notice it as much coming in today (maybe because i moved it around?) its still there but more in "typical" spots.

Right at 0.05 seconds-0.06 seconds you can hear it!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uyk4M-2mSus&feature=youtu.be

gonna try and replace them 4th of july morning!

 

[Boyds4Runner]

I can't see the video. I believe it's set to "private".

But if the sound changed on you after moving the links around, I would believe you are on the right track. Plus that driver side link should not be leaking out like that anyway.

 

[WEAK_E90]

BUMP - more troubleshooting and new video. See OP.:reddance:

 

[alphabeast]

One possibility is your LCA bolts. If you just had an alignment, its possible they may need tightened.

 

[nb rob]

just saw the video--

I agree with the above ^^
Have you checked the torque on the LCA bolts?

 

[WEAK_E90]

One possibility is your LCA bolts. If you just had an alignment, its possible they may need tightened.

Great point. I did check them last night they were torqued to 129ft lbs (verified last night too).

:clap2:

From what I could see in the cracks the bushings looked fine in there... There was this that left me kind of puzzled. (the angle doesnt look to be centered).

 

[WEAK_E90]

[/IMG]

This was the LCA back (noise isnt coming from here... head scratcher)

 

[Seattle206]

Might be your sway and endlink. I'd remove it and see if the noise goes away. Both my endlinks went bad at 30k.

 

[nb rob]

[/IMG]

This was the LCA back (noise isnt coming from here... head scratcher)

strange enough, that's normal.
I noticed this a long time ago on my 4r, and hunted around to see if this gap was common. It is.

Glad you ruled out the LCA bolts torque. Sorry you're still searching for a solution. This stuff can be maddening

 

[WEAK_E90]

car needed its oil change and figured be a good time for someone with a lift to look at it.

Dealer couldnt find anything. They hear the noise too. checked torque on all the suspension components said everything was tight...

Another buddy from work offered to help and he thinks the noise is coming from the center of the car way up by the edge of the skid plate... :suspicious:

Gonna take the skid plate off and see where that leaves me.

 

[LaO_T4R]

I'm having the same issue... kind of lost hope and gave up though lol.
There's more I can check, but just haven't.

I have the same click noise, but mine doesn't occur as easy as yours when braking hard, it takes a quick bump or jolt in the suspension for mine to click. While wheeling, if in a bumpy section, it continues on good suspension compression and almost sounds like a crunch.

I ruled out UCA's.
It did it with my Light Racing SPC uppers, so I switched to Total Chaos.
Never changed, still does it. They're greased well.

I ruled out the LCA's as well.
I torqued everything to specs, greased the bushings and alignment tabs, and checked for any metal to metal contact. All good.

I have gotten under the truck while a buddy rocked the front end up and down with my bumper. The clicked occurred every now and then, but I could not pin point it. But like you said, it sounded as if it came from the center. (skid area)

I have a skid on now, but the noise was there even before the skid.
And before replacing the factory skid plates to aftermarket, I rode around with them off, and still had the noise.

Also, I hear the same noise when jacking the front of the truck up and letting it down. So, once again, taking load off suspension and putting on.

So... kind of running out of options.
Just wanted to share.

 

[WEAK_E90]

I'm having the same issue... kind of lost hope and gave up though lol.
There's more I can check, but just haven't.

I have the same click noise, but mine doesn't occur as easy as yours when braking hard, it takes a quick bump or jolt in the suspension for mine to click. While wheeling, if in a bumpy section, it continues on good suspension compression and almost sounds like a crunch.

I ruled out UCA's.
It did it with my Light Racing SPC uppers, so I switched to Total Chaos.
Never changed, still does it. They're greased well.

I ruled out the LCA's as well.
I torqued everything to specs, greased the bushings and alignment tabs, and checked for any metal to metal contact. All good.

I have gotten under the truck while a buddy rocked the front end up and down with my bumper. The clicked occurred every now and then, but I could not pin point it. But like you said, it sounded as if it came from the center. (skid area)

I have a skid on now, but the noise was there even before the skid.
And before replacing the factory skid plates to aftermarket, I rode around with them off, and still had the noise.

Also, I hear the same noise when jacking the front of the truck up and letting it down. So, once again, taking load off suspension and putting on.

So... kind of running out of options.
Just wanted to share.

Thanks bud! I appreciate the help!

Last night I had enough. The dealership couldnt figure it out (I took theyre word for it saying they reinstalled the skid plate. My fault should have checked and did (it seemed tight)) and I took it in to my friends work to get it on a lift. It took us a little bit to figure it out but we FOUND IT!!!!!!!!!

It was the TRD skid plate. Nothing hitting it, it would just move when the body would flex.

I almost had to drag my buddy under my car because the noise was misleading and the way we found it was having him touch everything while i rolled over a speed bump.

It didnt tighten up much, maybe 1/2 - 1 full turn but it was enough to snug everything up. My only thought is the dealer used the torque setting and it may just need a little more...

Came into work this morning and walla. All the speed bumps i go over in my videos. Silent op2:

Thought i would share.