Sway bar end links compared

[MStudt]

I did the same thing a while back... I switched to fronts for the rear and stacked washers for extra strength. It was nearly impossible to get a wrench or socket on the top nut to get it off to replace them because the washer had folded up around it.

Stacking washers aren't needed if you had the correct washers in the first place. One grade 8 washer on the top and another on the bottom is all you need. If those start folding up, then you have the nuts way to tight. So many people under estimate the strength of washers, and more often then none don't know how to properly match them. Over tightening your links are only going to put added pressure on the hardware rather than the bushings.

 

[Atrox Caeda]

Stacking washers aren't needed if you had the correct washers in the first place. One grade 8 washer on the top and another on the bottom is all you need. If those start folding up, then you have the nuts way to tight. So many people under estimate the strength of washers, and more often then none don't know how to properly match them. Over tightening your links are only going to put added pressure on the hardware rather than the bushings.

I had extra washers and didn't want to buy grade 8... it made sense at the time and has held up. The factory washer is the one that folded. The others have since been sturdy.

 

[Kengeroo]

So I JUST did my rear sway links to correct the steep angle I had after swapping to the 8 wraps. I was going to go with O.E. 3rd gen fronts but said FACK that after I priced them at one and a half bills. I ended up going with AutoZone brand(Duralast) end links. From what I was told, they are manufactured by the same company that makes Mogg links as well. They were double the girth of my O.E. ones. I used 3rd gen fronts for the rear. They are EXACTLY the correct length to bring the sway back to correct geometry. Bolted up nicely and are beefy and well made. Came with all the new bushings and hardware as well. I'd suggest going with AZ FTW. Unfortunately I didn't take any pics of the comparison, but if anyone is seriously curious I can hold my O.E. one up to snap a pic for comparison. The model number I used is SL3560 or DSL3560. Here is a direct link to exactly what I used.

So if I wanted to keep my sways in the front and rear could I use the SL3560 for both the front and back?

 

[stever1000]

I ordered new end links from Japan (Febest) and the bushing inside diameter and rod diameter were narrower than stock ones I took off. So every time I brake, accelerate or turn a corner there is a knocking as the smaller diameter rod moves inside the swar bar hole.
I'm ordering new ones soon but I fear they are ovaling

 

[Kengeroo]

So I decided to order new end links for the front and move the stock fronts to the rear. Also ordered all new bushings for both since some are cracked and definitely need replacement.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[stever1000]

I ordered new end links from Japan (Febest) and the bushing inside diameter and rod diameter were narrower than stock ones I took off. So every time I brake, accelerate or turn a corner there is a knocking as the smaller diameter rod moves inside the swar bar hole.
I'm ordering new ones soon but I fear they are ovaling

On this same note - does anyone know why aftermarket suppliers would change the rod diameter to be narrower than stock? It seems that if the sway bar holes determine the rod diameter, then they should all be the same diameter?

 

[kolelt]

As much as I like the stability, I removed my rear sway bar. Especially with elocker. Last thing I need is motor being smashed. Plus, my driveshaft hits the gas tank with or without swaybar lol.

 

[JayRolla]

On this same note - does anyone know why aftermarket suppliers would change the rod diameter to be narrower than stock? It seems that if the sway bar holes determine the rod diameter, then they should all be the same diameter?

They are cheap and crappy. That's why.

 

[JayRolla]

As much as I like the stability, I removed my rear sway bar. Especially with elocker. Last thing I need is motor being smashed. Plus, my driveshaft hits the gas tank with or without swaybar lol.

Another reason arb is the way to go. Lol. Just joking. I just finished a Moab trail and left front disconnected on way home. It was pretty loose.

 

[Falonious]

On this same note - does anyone know why aftermarket suppliers would change the rod diameter to be narrower than stock? It seems that if the sway bar holes determine the rod diameter, then they should all be the same diameter?

They seem to very greatly in both manufacture and price, just look on amazon for example, front or rear makes no difference and note how many and how different some are.
I guess the old buyer beware really comes into play here. At least there are pics there and places like Rock Auto so you can get an idea of what your buying. Would still like to see in person but not always possible.

 

[Kanoe]

On this same note - does anyone know why aftermarket suppliers would change the rod diameter to be narrower than stock? It seems that if the sway bar holes determine the rod diameter, then they should all be the same diameter?

Are you talking about the top on where they mount to the frame?

If so, the rods are ALL smaller than the hole diameter. Even the OEM originals. There is a centering washer on top of the bottom rubber bushing that fits snugly into the larger hole in the frame. Are you missing this piece? Also those bushings should be torqued down enough to keep things from banging around, no??

I just bought a set of Moog rears and they are the same as the OEM originals in all the critical dimensions.

 

[stever1000]

They seem to very greatly in both manufacture and price, just look on amazon for example, front or rear makes no difference and note how many and how different some are.
I guess the old buyer beware really comes into play here. At least there are pics there and places like Rock Auto so you can get an idea of what your buying. Would still like to see in person but not always possible.

Agreed - I would love to be able to view it first before purchasing...

Are you talking about the top on where they mount to the frame?

If so, the rods are ALL smaller than the hole diameter. Even the OEM originals. There is a centering washer on top of the bottom rubber bushing that fits snugly into the larger hole in the frame. Are you missing this piece? Also those bushings should be torqued down enough to keep things from banging around, no??

I just bought a set of Moog rears and they are the same as the OEM originals in all the critical dimensions.

No I mean when I compared the new sway bar links with the old (assuming OEM or good quality) the diameters were noticeably different side by side on the garage floor. The old bushings didn't fit the new links when I compared that way as well...

 

[Nooga_Rock]

So I JUST did my rear sway links to correct the steep angle I had after swapping to the 8 wraps. I was going to go with O.E. 3rd gen fronts but said FACK that after I priced them at one and a half bills. I ended up going with AutoZone brand(Duralast) end links. From what I was told, they are manufactured by the same company that makes Mogg links as well. They were double the girth of my O.E. ones. I used 3rd gen fronts for the rear. They are EXACTLY the correct length to bring the sway back to correct geometry. Bolted up nicely and are beefy and well made. Came with all the new bushings and hardware as well. I'd suggest going with AZ FTW. Unfortunately I didn't take any pics of the comparison, but if anyone is seriously curious I can hold my O.E. one up to snap a pic for comparison. The model number I used is SL3560 or DSL3560. Here is a direct link to exactly what I used.

Duralast/Sway Bar Repair Kit (SL3560) | AutoZone.com

And here's a picture of my passenger one installed.

Hmmm, so are the stock links different sizes as well or just that one? After adding a 3" lift, could I put the stock front links on the rear and just take off the front swaybar?

 

[Codyhenry]

I'm your hook up for disconnects.

How much?

 

[MStudt]

How much?

Send me a PM.

Mike