Swaybar Bushing Upgrade

[eddiebx]

really? 11 pages of people installing these poly sway bar bushings and no one knows the size of the bolts that hold on the bushing brackets?

When you replace something on your truck, do you usually take off all the bolts, measure the thread pitch and length for no apparent reason, and then re-install the bolts? Didn't think so, lol

Why don't you just go pull one out of your truck and measure it, it would be a lot more accurate and probably faster than sitting around waiting for someone to tell you.

BTW, no such thing as grade 8 metric bolts, you're looking for grade 10.9. And also don't bother with consumer grade SS bolts, they are almost never pressure rated and much weaker than 10.9 bolts. Definitely don't want that anywhere near load bearing components

 

[NuclearN8]

When you replace something on your truck, do you usually take off all the bolts, measure the thread pitch and length for no apparent reason, and then re-install the bolts? Didn't think so, lol

Why don't you just go pull one out of your truck and measure it, it would be a lot more accurate and probably faster than sitting around waiting for someone to tell you.

BTW, no such thing as grade 8 metric bolts, you're looking for grade 10.9. And also don't bother with consumer grade SS bolts, they are almost never pressure rated and much weaker than 10.9 bolts. Definitely don't want that anywhere near load bearing components

Actually I do measure each bolt.

It's below zero outside, I have no garage, I work all day and I'll be damn if I'm going to lay on the frozen ground in the dark with 30mph winds trying to remove a stupid bolt. It's not that important, just figured I could make my lunch break useful by buying some parts I know I'll need once the weather warms up and I install the bushings. (eg. figured the forum could help save me a step by sharing information... that is the point of this forum, isnt' it?.... )

you're correct on the grade. meant to type GR8 equivalent... was working on my Harley so had imperial units in my head....

 

[kkz]

reviving this one for a simple question (too cold to go outside right now and look on my runner). I read this entire thread and saw about larger washers being recommended, thank you.

I'd like to replace the factory bushing bracket bolts, Front and Rear.
Can anyone confirm the sway bar bushing bolt size is 8 x 1.25? same as the 3rd Gen writeup [MENTION=15785]J.A.[/MENTION] performed here: Toyota 4Runner Handling Modifications Addco Sway Roll Bars

What length are the stock bolts if they are 8 x 1.25 as well? I want to replace the oem bolts with some Gr8 or SS hardware while doing this mod once the weather warms up. Thank you.

The fronts are M8x1.25, not sure if the rears are the same. Took me a few trips to OSH because the bolts wouldn't thread into the M8x1.25 test thing they had, only the M8x1.50, kept confusing me, but eventually figured it out.

 

[NuclearN8]

The fronts are M8x1.25, not sure if the rears are the same. Took me a few trips to OSH because the bolts wouldn't thread into the M8x1.25 test thing they had, only the M8x1.50, kept confusing me, but eventually figured it out.

Thank you for sharing this information. So the front bolts are 8 x 1.25 and the rears are 8 x 1.25 also or 1.50 or you can not remember on the rears?

 

[Whiplash Willy]

I am thinking about doing this mod, but had some questions on replacing the rear endlinks.

1. When replacing, do you leave the rear swaybar in place?
2. Do you have to unbolt the top nut, then pull the rod out in order to get to the bushings to replace them, and if so, do you have any tips or tricks on how to do this?
3. Do you keep your 4runner on the ground to change these, or do the wheels need to be off the ground?

 

[Darklight]

Whiplash Willy, if you are just replacing the endlinks you do not need to mess with the swaybar or remove any other bolts/nuts except for the one top nut shown in your picture.

The rear swaybar is attached to the axle and the endlinks to the body.

Tip for removing the endlink bushings, start by removing the top nut and top bushing.
Then using a floor jack raise the body up slowly about a couple of inches, (I use the area on the frame near the rear door) Keep an eye on the endlink.
You can then by hand grab the endlink and pull it down and out of the mounting area, (if you cannot pull it down then keep jacking/raising the body up)
then, swap out the bottom bushing and line it back up with the mounting hole. Slowly let the floor jack down while keeping an eye on the endlink, Make sure it is sliding back into the mount. If it is then release the floor jack and put the new top bushing and washer on then the nut and you are through.
Make sure you only tighten until there is a slight buldge to get the proper bushing deflection.

Bobby

I am thinking about doing this mod, but had some questions on replacing the rear endlinks.

1. When replacing, do you leave the rear swaybar in place?
2. Do you have to unbolt the top nut, then pull the rod out in order to get to the bushings to replace them, and if so, do you have any tips or tricks on how to do this?
3. Do you keep your 4runner on the ground to change these, or do the wheels need to be off the ground?

 

[Whiplash Willy]

Thanks Darklight! That cleared everything up for me!

 

[dmalis12]

Can anyone confirm sizes for front and rear swaybar size for bushings on a 06' Limited V8. searched the whole thread and cant find someone who has done the mod past year 05.

Any one done this on the 06 V8?

Thanks

 

[Darklight]

30mm front, 19mm rear if you have 4wheel drive. I think the 2wd is a tad smaller like 29mm front. I would also look into the MOOG thermo ones as replacements, part numbers are #K80820 30mm #K90394 19mm

 

[noshortcuts]

measure twice, buy once.

I suggest everyone that wants to do this should take a micrometer/caliper under their truck and measure. It takes only a few seconds to know for sure the sizes needed.

Even though I told myself to roll under the truck and measure for myself I picked up 30mm front and 19mm rear based on the forums. Turns out the rear of my 2006 Limited 4x4 (4WD) is 21mm.

 

[Darklight]

That is good to know. Mine is an SR5, may be differences between the models but I do not think so. I know for sure the 2wd front is a smaller diameter. Maybe the 2wd rear is thicker? Is yours 2wd? :noidea:

 

[noshortcuts]

That is good to know. Mine is an SR5, may be differences between the models but I do not think so. I know for sure the 2wd front is a smaller diameter. Maybe the 2wd rear is thicker? Is yours 2wd? :noidea:

No, mine's 4WD.

 

[Darklight]

Interesting, may be differences between models then. I know 2 others running 19mm in the rear and they're either sport or sr5 models. Like you said better measure to be safe.

 

[dmalis12]

I suggest everyone that wants to do this should take a micrometer/caliper under their truck and measure. It takes only a few seconds to know for sure the sizes needed.

Even though I told myself to roll under the truck and measure for myself I picked up 30mm front and 19mm rear based on the forums. Turns out the rear of my 2006 Limited 4x4 (4WD) is 21mm.

What size was the front? 30mm? I bought 30 for front and 19 for back as told. then bought cheap micrometer and measured front. Definately not 30. almost looks 28 or 29. Can anyone confirm?

 

[noshortcuts]

What size was the front? 30mm? I bought 30 for front and 19 for back as told. then bought cheap micrometer and measured front. Definately not 30. almost looks 28 or 29. Can anyone confirm?

the plot thickens.... Yes, my front is 30mm.
What is your rear measuring as?

 

[Goldrunner]

Measured my '08 2wd v6 w/digital calipers. I'm an ammo reloader so I have a couple of sets I use regularly.

Rear: 19 mm. Purchased Prothane 19-1162 greasable
Front:29 mm. Purchased Prothane 19-1185 greasable
End links: Purchased Energy 9-8105G like every body else

Got em from DST/aftermarket suspension parts outta Stephenville, Texas
$52.05 w/tax and shipping. Ordered Monday eve, gottem today, Wednesday

Being installed tomorrow along with a set of Bilstein 5100's all they way around. Got them from autoanything. $341.00 delivered in 3 working days.

My mechanic is honest, inexpensive, and close by.

My 2000 was a little too stiff, this one is a little too soft.

Maybe this will be 'just right'

 

[Goldrunner]

Just picked up the Goldrunner from my mechanic. He initially installed the spring seats upside down and gave Goldie 4 inches of front lift.

After I pointed out his error he re- installed and now I have bilstiens all around.

Before: front. 18" center of hub to fender
Rear. 21"

After: Front. 19.75"
Rear. 21.25

Haven't driven it enough to judge ride quality yet, but so far it feels a lot more like the 3rd gen that it replaced.

I'll post more impressions in a few days....

 

[Goldrunner]

I kinda forgot which thread I was posting in. The sway bar bushings listed above
fit like a glove. Mech said they "went right on with no problems"

Goldrunner

 

[NCSCOTT]

2004 2WD V6 Here.. Measured this Morning 29mm Front. 21mm rear stabilizer bar thickness.

Crazy how there are so many different Thicknesses. Does not seem to be any real pattern to it!!

Ordered

2- Moog K80469 Replacement Sway Bar Links for the rear. Rubber was dry-rotted at the sway bar link end.
Energy Suspension 9.8105R End link Grommets Rear
Energy Suspension 9.5125R Sway bar bushing set rear 21mm

1 Ea Moog K90677 Front Left and K90683 Front Right Stabilizer link Kits, These have made in Japan Stamped on them. Again dry-rotted rubber around the "ball" joint on the links.
Energy Suspension 8.5135R 29mm front sway bar bushing set.

Just under $152 Total for all parts. Rear links and all bushing sets from amazon $86 Shipped.
front links shipped from ebay $65.66

 

[burninator]

Good thread. Subscribing.