Swaybar Bushing Upgrade

ChucktownRunner said:
Are there any opinions on energy vs prothane as far as performance? Doesn't matter to me if they have zerks or not, just looking for opinions on which one has a more noticeable affect on the ride. Thanks!
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I didn't have a choice since Energy apparently doesn't make a 21mm bushing. Might be worth measuring yours before you bother with comparing them.
 
New to posting....been browsing a while.

Finally did this (30 mm front, 21 rear, Prothane bar bushings, Energy end link bushings, Moog end link upgrade with zerks). A few comments (done without pulling off the wheels):

On my 2005 SR5 the front OEM bushing bracket holes were slightly offset. Was kind of a ***** to get the Prothane fronts one, but was done and seems to be fine.

Rears went on easily but the driver side was tight b/c of the fuel tank.

End link swap (Moog for the 2nd Gen) flattened out the angel of the rear bar (2 in lift w/ the OME springs), but the top nut was a pain to get in w/o a 17mm flat socket wrench. Took about 4 beers to get the damn thing on.

Didn't see the torque specs on this thread, so (per 2003 main guide):
Front bushings: 30 ft/lbs
Rear bushings: 22 ft/lbs
Rear end link upper: 15 ft/lbs (couldn't get my torque in there so did it until it felt good)
Rear end link connector (lower): 52 ft/lbs

Few squirts of grease all around and I was good to go.

Not sure what's the next mod, but I'm sure I can find something to do shortly.
 
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AJ_20 said:
Finally did this (30 mm front, 21 rear, Prothane bar bushings, Energy end link bushings, Moog end link upgrade with zerks). A few comments (done without pulling off the wheels):
Click to expand...

What part #'s did you use for your swaybar bushings? I would like to get these but want to use my stock brackets and not sure if that would work.
 
Snesley Wipes said:
What part #'s did you use for your swaybar bushings? I would like to get these but want to use my stock brackets and not sure if that would work.
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I just ordered K80820 by Moog from Rockauto... After the outrageous 2.75 in shipping the total came to $9.91. If you want to hold off for a week I can let you know how the install went...given that they are from Moog and for my application (05 V8 w 30mm bar) I am confident that will be a bolt in affair. Also I have done sways and poly bushings on all of my other cars and no surprises yet.

For those that really want zerk fittings it is possible to drill the bracket and screw in generic fitting, iirc they have a small pipe thread that will sorta kinda cut its own, and then drill the bushing to let the grease get to the bar. All that being said I rock ploy on Volvo (yeah people mod those too) and did a little wipe of assembly grease and never looked back 8ish years ago.
 
Assembling parts for my lift and I guess if I'm going to buy the extended sway bar links to keep everything intact, I may as well get new bushings on the sway bar as well. After reading this whole thread it appears Toyota randomly sized sway bars in the front and rear... looks like I need to get under there with some calipers before ordering... :mad:
 
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Snesley Wipes said:
What part #'s did you use for your swaybar bushings? I would like to get these but want to use my stock brackets and not sure if that would work.
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Front: Prothane 19-1186 Red 30 mm Universal Greasable Sway Bar Bushing fits B Style Bracket
Rear:Prothane 19-1164 Red 21 mm Universal Greasable Sway Bar Bushing fits A Style Bracket

Got these plus the Moog end links and end link bushings (Energy) on Amazon for about 75 total plus tax.

Given the variance in bar sizes (thanks Toyota), I picked up some calipers at Home Depot and measured to be sure.

When I noticed the slight offset on the stock bracket, I thought about reusing them, but the Prothane bushing wasn't as large as the stock and there was wiggle room when I put them together so decided to use the zinc brackets that came w/ the Prothanes. Stock rears were aligned so they were easy bolt off/bolt on.

Hope this helps.
 
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FWIW the moog bushing kit from Rockauto said for 29 or 30 mm bars , mine is the 30 and the fit just like you would anticipate parts from moog fitting, perfect.
 
Hmmm that's interesting because my 2004 SR5 V8 measured to 21 and 30. Maybe some of us suck at measuring? Or maybe there's a reason Energy makes a 29.5 but not a 29 or 30?
 
green_manalishi said:
Hmmm that's interesting because my 2004 SR5 V8 measured to 21 and 30. Maybe some of us suck at measuring? Or maybe there's a reason Energy makes a 29.5 but not a 29 or 30?
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Hopefully I didn't mismeasure as I already ordered my bushings. However, I will grab my calipers and remeasure in a couple spots to verify... it wouldn't surprise me if it varies given all the different measurements ITT. Hopefully a 29mm fits mine!
 
I mean, it could be me too. My calipers came from Harbor freight. That said, I haven't noticed any issues with my 30mm bushings after about a month of use.
 
Need some advice. Mine is 2007 SE V8. My rear measures 19.66 mm and my front measures 30.25 mm. Do I go with 19 or 20 for the rear? 30 for the front? TIA.
 
pjbrownva said:
I bought this, its a Milwaukee tool battery powered 1/2 inch impact driver.



It's from their "Fuel" line, which is their marketing for versions with brushless motors.



It's a bit pricey ($400 -ish), but it is AWESOME! It puts out up to 1,100 Ft-lbs of torque to unscrew items, and up to 700 Ft-lbs to tighten!

(Yes... you read that right!!!)



It's changed my life in terms of working on the truck. I didn't know this before,

but with an impact wrench, you don't experience torque in the tool handle like

you do with a regular cordless driver drill.



I personally bought a set that came with a hammer drill, a bit driver, a charger

and two of of their "XC5.0" batteries --- which is their jargon for 5.0 amp hour extended capacity batteries. They also offer XC4.0 batteries (4.0 amp hour).



Then I bought the impact driver separately as just the driver without a battery, or charger.



At the Home Depot had a promo where if you bought one Milwaukee cordless tool, you got up to $150 off another, so the full set... three tools, two 5.0 batteries & one charger ran me $550.



Not cheap... I know... but this is WAY better than the Ryobi one+ stuff.

I've had the Ryobi 1/2 impact driver for several years, and it just doesn't have

enough torque... The Ryobi one is only rated for 200 ft-lbs of torque, and their ratings might even be optimistic... For example, I have NEVER been able to take off lug nuts with the Ryobi driver,

and the Ryobi driver has been useless for freeing up tight bolts, but with the Milwaukee Fuel 1/2 impact driver, I feel like I'm part of a NASCAR pit crew!





Also note that the tool comes in few different versions. For example, you can get the anvil with a small ball bearing to hold the socket on, or a detent snap ring. Also, the models have a low and high power mode, and the torque on the low power mode differs based on the version... just an FYI... the folks at the store where you shop probably won't be aware of these difference, but you can read about it on the company's website.



The Milwaukee Fuel 1/2 impact driver is truly professional grade. The batteries last a long time before recharging, and they are more powerful than some of the air-driven impact wrenches.



I posted this because, so far, I've been able to effortlessly break free all of my stubborn bolts. Squirt with penetrating oil. Let it sit. Then use an impact socket (black not chrome)... the impact sockets give a little more... the chrome sockets are too brittle. Also a trick that I've been using... I bought an impact rated short extension and an impact rated 1/2 to 3/8 reducer (both black)... along with an impact rated 1/2" universal joint.



I use the extension (and reducer when needed) with my regular chrome sockets. I figure the extension is the right kind of metal to help absorb some the impact force, so I'm less likely to damage my regular chrome sockets.



For sockets, I bought an inexpensive set of metric 3/8" impact driver sockets from Amazon. It's not everything I need, but it's a start, and I use my regular chrome sockets with the extension when I need other sizes.



I suppose you could (and might) break off the bold head if it is really frozen, but you also might just bust it free. It's been such a good change for me.



Also, use caution (and the lower torque settings) when putting bolts on with the driver. Torque them down by hand, or be very careful or you will over-torque, or even snap off your bold heads.



One more tip... I also bought these off of Amazon. They are "Heavy-Duty Torque Stick, 1/2-Inch Drive Extension Bars 65 to 140 Ft Lbs - Chrome Molybdenum".



Basically, they are extensions that flex when you hit a pre-specified torque setting. If you go slowly when tightening with the impact driver, you can use these to torque bolts to an approximate range. It's not exact, but if you don't normally use a torque wrench, then something like these are way better than nothing... plus they are convenient.



Sorry 'bout the long post... but I thought I'd share. It's been that helpful to me, and seemed to be on point re: freeing a stuck bolt. :heh:



(Photos of items purchased are from Amazon, Milwaukee tools were purchased at Home Depot.)
Click to expand...



Your posts have been super helpful. Just wanted to say thanks.
 
I have the Sears 19.2v series of tools for home use now (retired), looking into using their impact driver sometime.
_______________
2007 SE V6 Titanium
 
burninator said:
'06 SR5 2WD here. Front is 29mm.
Click to expand...

but the amazon bushings which are said to be a perfect fit is 30mm, good, the extra 1mm clearance is for a snug it


@all, just noticed that my rear sway bar is broken,,, am wondering if there is a downside to not changing it, or even removing it totally?
 
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