Yeah, I already called the local dealerships, but they didn't know where to check for exact sizes. What part do I measure?CJ3Flyr said:I am not sure. The front should be 30mm. The rear is up for grabs. You should measure it. The Toyota parts catalog shows two different part #'s. I interpret that to mean 2 sizes.
:cheers:
PM'ed you for info.crooper said:I've got four new end link bushings +washers that I didn't use for my truck. They give you 8, you only need 4. If you're interested, PM me.
FT5117 said:Thanks for the posting the helpful pics. Now I need to find a micronometer(sp) to measure them.
btw, I've been following a few of your DIY threads on several forums. Looks like you're ready to set up your own blog.
You're right, 2wd v8's rear bar is 21mm.J.A. said:Nice! I thought the rear bar was 21MM...
CJ3Flyr said:Thanks for the compliment. A micrometer would work but a good one is expensive. A simple caliper will work. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1292837 http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100080103 My guess is for most DIY progects these might be handier than a micrometer.
:cheers:
FT5117 said:You're right, 2wd v8's rear bar is 21mm.
FT5117 said:...One more thing, how do I find out the correct size endlink bushings for my 4runner and a Frontier?
FT5117 said:
3. More recently, I found your thread about upgrading the stabilizer bar bushings / endlinks to turn the T4R into the best handling SUV in the history of SUV's. After a dozen phone calls to various dealers (some promised to research and call back but never did, some required 3weeks to special order, some never returned my messages, some don't stock these items, mfr tech's referred me to places that ended up being dead ends, etc), finally found one to special order / drop ship the exact parts I needed. I received the bushings yesterday, then the endlinks today... this is the place I ended up ordering from: www.neverenoughauto.com
I plan on installing the bushings / endlinks tomorrow, just in time for this weekend's road trip.
FOLLOW UP "Report":
I had my highly skilled mechanic install the bushings and endlinks, took about 45 minutes, simple, easy installation. Gave him 50 custom stickers, high grade vinyl and clear flypaper, in various sizes. Also included a special set of "brushed metal" carbon fiber stickers... worth it's weight in gold.. very delicate, very fragile, and high casualty rate. Sorry for going off topic, it's an inside "joke" that only CJ3Flyr can understand, because I just read and replied to his PM. Bottomline, these upgraded polyurethane bushings and endlinks are doing a great job of dampening the T4R's roll during cornering. The T4R acts like it's very reluctant to roll during hard cornering.
New CJ3flyer commercial:
Front coilovers: $35
Rear shocks/coils: $50
Bushings/Endlinks: $50
SUV w/ sports car handling: Priceless
Day 2 FOLLOW UP Report:
As mentioned earlier, upgrading the suspension has been a three step process. Short after installing the front FJ coilovers, I noticed an instant improvement in handling, but not enough to stop the major body roll from turning into slightly angled driveways or parking lot entrances (90 degree / right turn). I'd always forget I was driving an SUV because I switch between vehicles during the week. Worse was when a friend drive my T4R... she's not used to beemers not SUVs... made a sharp turn into the parking lot entrance and the 5 of us felt like we were flying all over the place (seatbelted). Well this morning, I drove into the same parking lot and went "oh crap" because I forgot to slow down... the entire truck body started to act like it was about to thrash around but the bushings/endlinks kicked in and started dampening the roll and things instantly evened out... resulting in minimal roll. Two words: ItWasAn AmazingExperience. My T4R drives like a car, does yours? lol.
For those of you concerned with diminished offroad capabilities... you need not worry, you're supposed to disconnect (unbolt endlinks) the stabilizer bars before every offroad outting, anyway.
btw, CJ3Flyr, would you mind adding this info to the first post of your other thread, it'll help save people a lot of time.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34115
http://www.neverenoughauto.com/index.php
4Runner V8 2WD parts:
Prothane Greasable Universal Bushings
21mm 19-1164-BL
30mm 19-1186-BL
steve germany said:This is just the post I've been looking for! Thanks Chris - ordered all the parts you recommended today!
steve germany said:JEGs just cancelled my order - any want tio order two sets and mail them to me for a small tip?
Thanks
Steve
At a US military address in Germany (APO)
CJ3Flyr said:... I was able to change the front sway-bar frame bushings, the rear sway-bar frame bushings and the rear sway-bar end-link bushings ...
Kmvreter said:Thinking of doing this and was looking at the bars so here are some questions:
Are the original V6 bushings rubber or poly and do they deteriorate over time so they flex more?
Rubber and they do deteriorate over time. If you see a gap between the rubber and the bar then you know for sure they arent doing their job anymore.
There are 2 "ends" on each end link plus a set of end links on the front bar. Why did you only change the upper bushings on the rear end links? The other "ends" look different so are they permanent?
For the 4th gen, On the top and bottom of the front end link and the lower only of the rear endlink, there is a ball joint which does not use replaceable bushings.
When you changed the frame bushings, did you do one at a time to leave the bar in position? Are the frame bushings "split" to get them to fit over the bar or do you have to remove the entire bar and slide them on from the ends?
They are usually split, I would recommend leaving the end links in place but removing both SB brackets to let the bar sag enough so that you can get the split busings over the bar. You do not need to slide them over from an end.
Kmvreter said:Thinking of doing this and was looking at the bars so here are some questions:
Are the original V6 bushings rubber or poly and do they deteriorate over time so they flex more?
There are 2 "ends" on each end link plus a set of end links on the front bar. Why did you only change the upper bushings on the rear end links? The other "ends" look different so are they permanent?
When you changed the frame bushings, did you do one at a time to leave the bar in position? Are the frame bushings "split" to get them to fit over the bar or do you have to remove the entire bar and slide them on from the ends?