Swaybar Bushing Upgrade

I've got four new end link bushings +washers that I didn't use for my truck. They give you 8, you only need 4. If you're interested, PM me.
 
CJ3Flyr said:
I am not sure. The front should be 30mm. The rear is up for grabs. You should measure it. The Toyota parts catalog shows two different part #'s. I interpret that to mean 2 sizes.

:cheers:
Yeah, I already called the local dealerships, but they didn't know where to check for exact sizes. What part do I measure?
Also, where is the rear swaybar located? The spec sheet says that my 4runner is supposed to have front and rear "stabilizer" bars, but I can't find the rear swaybars... not even the welded-on swaybar mounts found on the '08 models. :confused:


crooper said:
I've got four new end link bushings +washers that I didn't use for my truck. They give you 8, you only need 4. If you're interested, PM me.
PM'ed you for info.
 
Ok... You need to measure the diameter of the barstock of the swaybar. Bushings are sold in 1mm increments so be precise.

Look at these pics.
FrtOrient.jpg~original



Install tip: As tempting as it is to cut the wheel to gain access don't. You'll 'load' the swaybar and it will be difficult to line it up. Just lay on you back and suck it up. Jacking and removing the tire will cause the same problem. If you do jack it up then jack & jackstand BOTH sides simultaneously, not necessary but that would make it easy (if you can talk the neighborhood kid into doing the jacking:lmao: ).
FrtBush.jpg~original


RearOrient.jpg~original



These are what you want for the next pic; Energy Suspension 9-8105G
RearEndlink.jpg~original



This view is from in front of the RR tire.
RearBush.jpg~original


:cheers:
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the posting the helpful pics. Now I need to find a micronometer(sp) to measure them.
btw, I've been following a few of your DIY threads on several forums. Looks like you're ready to set up your own blog.

pict0028gg5.jpg
 
FT5117 said:
Thanks for the posting the helpful pics. Now I need to find a micronometer(sp) to measure them.
btw, I've been following a few of your DIY threads on several forums. Looks like you're ready to set up your own blog.

Thanks for the compliment. A micrometer would work but a good one is expensive. A simple caliper will work. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1292837 http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100080103 My guess is for most DIY progects these might be handier than a micrometer.

:cheers:
 
J.A. said:
Nice! I thought the rear bar was 21MM...
You're right, 2wd v8's rear bar is 21mm.

CJ3Flyr said:
Thanks for the compliment. A micrometer would work but a good one is expensive. A simple caliper will work. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1292837 http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100080103 My guess is for most DIY progects these might be handier than a micrometer.

:cheers:

Good tip, saved me hundreds, haha. I got the calipers at a local ACE hardware store, used it to check my 4runner as well as a friend's Frontier truck.
Today, I called JEGs to order all the parts for both trucks, but these are special-order only sizes and will take 3 weeks! Any other good sites you'd recommend? Thanks.
One more thing, how do I find out the correct size endlink bushings for my 4runner and a Frontier?
 
Last edited:
FT5117 said:
...One more thing, how do I find out the correct size endlink bushings for my 4runner and a Frontier?

Glad you're on the right track.

As far as endlink bushings go I used these, Energy Suspension 9-8105G. What I have found is there's one size that fits almost all. These may be a little thicker than the stock ones but will work fine. I suspect the Frontier will use the same ones.

Until you get into full sized trucks the ones I suggested pretty much will cover it. It's likely that a local Autozone or PepBoys will have the endlink bushings in stock.

:cheers:
 
from another thread...
FT5117 said:

3. More recently, I found your thread about upgrading the stabilizer bar bushings / endlinks to turn the T4R into the best handling SUV in the history of SUV's. After a dozen phone calls to various dealers (some promised to research and call back but never did, some required 3weeks to special order, some never returned my messages, some don't stock these items, mfr tech's referred me to places that ended up being dead ends, etc), finally found one to special order / drop ship the exact parts I needed. I received the bushings yesterday, then the endlinks today... this is the place I ended up ordering from: www.neverenoughauto.com
I plan on installing the bushings / endlinks tomorrow, just in time for this weekend's road trip.

FOLLOW UP "Report":
I had my highly skilled mechanic install the bushings and endlinks, took about 45 minutes, simple, easy installation. Gave him 50 custom stickers, high grade vinyl and clear flypaper, in various sizes. Also included a special set of "brushed metal" carbon fiber stickers... worth it's weight in gold.. very delicate, very fragile, and high casualty rate. Sorry for going off topic, it's an inside "joke" that only CJ3Flyr can understand, because I just read and replied to his PM. Bottomline, these upgraded polyurethane bushings and endlinks are doing a great job of dampening the T4R's roll during cornering. The T4R acts like it's very reluctant to roll during hard cornering.

New CJ3flyer commercial:

Front coilovers: $35
Rear shocks/coils: $50
Bushings/Endlinks: $50
SUV w/ sports car handling: Priceless


Day 2 FOLLOW UP Report:
As mentioned earlier, upgrading the suspension has been a three step process. Short after installing the front FJ coilovers, I noticed an instant improvement in handling, but not enough to stop the major body roll from turning into slightly angled driveways or parking lot entrances (90 degree / right turn). I'd always forget I was driving an SUV because I switch between vehicles during the week. Worse was when a friend drive my T4R... she's not used to beemers not SUVs... made a sharp turn into the parking lot entrance and the 5 of us felt like we were flying all over the place (seatbelted). Well this morning, I drove into the same parking lot and went "oh crap" because I forgot to slow down... the entire truck body started to act like it was about to thrash around but the bushings/endlinks kicked in and started dampening the roll and things instantly evened out... resulting in minimal roll. Two words: ItWasAn AmazingExperience. My T4R drives like a car, does yours? lol.

For those of you concerned with diminished offroad capabilities... you need not worry, you're supposed to disconnect (unbolt endlinks) the stabilizer bars before every offroad outting, anyway.

btw, CJ3Flyr, would you mind adding this info to the first post of your other thread, it'll help save people a lot of time.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34115

http://www.neverenoughauto.com/index.php
4Runner V8 2WD parts:
Prothane Greasable Universal Bushings
21mm 19-1164-BL
30mm 19-1186-BL

Thread with most T4R suspension info (for now):

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&postid=360726#post360726
 
steve germany said:
This is just the post I've been looking for! Thanks Chris - ordered all the parts you recommended today!

:bigok: You won't regret it... Great "bang for the buck" upgrade.
 
JEGs just cancelled my order - any want tio order two sets and mail them to me for a small tip?

Thanks

Steve

At a US military address in Germany (APO)
 
steve germany said:
JEGs just cancelled my order - any want tio order two sets and mail them to me for a small tip?

Thanks

Steve

At a US military address in Germany (APO)

Check your PM's... One sent.
:cheers:
 
CJ3Flyr said:
... I was able to change the front sway-bar frame bushings, the rear sway-bar frame bushings and the rear sway-bar end-link bushings ...

Thinking of doing this and was looking at the bars so here are some questions:

Are the original V6 bushings rubber or poly and do they deteriorate over time so they flex more?

There are 2 "ends" on each end link plus a set of end links on the front bar. Why did you only change the upper bushings on the rear end links? The other "ends" look different so are they permanent?

When you changed the frame bushings, did you do one at a time to leave the bar in position? Are the frame bushings "split" to get them to fit over the bar or do you have to remove the entire bar and slide them on from the ends?
 
Re: Re: Swaybar Bushing Upgrade

Since I have done this on my 3rd gen I will give you some advice.

Kmvreter said:
Thinking of doing this and was looking at the bars so here are some questions:

Are the original V6 bushings rubber or poly and do they deteriorate over time so they flex more?
Rubber and they do deteriorate over time. If you see a gap between the rubber and the bar then you know for sure they arent doing their job anymore.

There are 2 "ends" on each end link plus a set of end links on the front bar. Why did you only change the upper bushings on the rear end links? The other "ends" look different so are they permanent?
For the 4th gen, On the top and bottom of the front end link and the lower only of the rear endlink, there is a ball joint which does not use replaceable bushings.

When you changed the frame bushings, did you do one at a time to leave the bar in position? Are the frame bushings "split" to get them to fit over the bar or do you have to remove the entire bar and slide them on from the ends?
They are usually split, I would recommend leaving the end links in place but removing both SB brackets to let the bar sag enough so that you can get the split busings over the bar. You do not need to slide them over from an end.
 
Re: Re: Swaybar Bushing Upgrade

Kmvreter said:
Thinking of doing this and was looking at the bars so here are some questions:

Are the original V6 bushings rubber or poly and do they deteriorate over time so they flex more?

There are 2 "ends" on each end link plus a set of end links on the front bar. Why did you only change the upper bushings on the rear end links? The other "ends" look different so are they permanent?

When you changed the frame bushings, did you do one at a time to leave the bar in position? Are the frame bushings "split" to get them to fit over the bar or do you have to remove the entire bar and slide them on from the ends?



:iagree: with J.A. 100%
1) Rubber and maybe, I suspect they do.
2) The endlinks (except the top rear) are a greased metal ball and socket bearing and therefore have no flex.
3) The bushings are split; you just slip the off and on over the bar. I changed them one at a time. I loosened both sides but left the bolts in so I could wiggle the bar around a bit. Once the new bushings were on the second side I tightened the four bolts all the way.

Hope that helps...:D

:cheers:
 
i just did this with my friend on my 07 sport 4.0 4x4, took 2 hours, the rear sway bar will need a set of bigger washers, i had to buy 4 of them and costed 26 cents, since the stock has a small washer on the bolt, it was a little to small to cover up the hole on the new bracket for the bushings, other than that, everything went in and out easy, did one at a time, took the wheel off the rear and put the truck on jackstands, and had alot of room to work, also buy some extra grease, i used like a full pack of the prothane grease, along with the ones that came with the bushings,also greased up the end stops in the front. also wen i jacked up the truck,i almost found a hole on my exhaust pipe for my aftermarket exhuast system, i guess i bottom out the car wen i go over speed bumps too fast. so i bought it to the muffler shop that put it in, said my 3 inch pipes is big, but he is gona reverse a bolt on the axel and make some clearance, all the work will be free of charge, its great that he has a lifetime warranty on labor and 2 years on the parts. overall everything feels almost the same maybe a lil improvement, but i cant tell from now.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,080
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top