Swaybar hitting elocker!

DanKendall6 · Jul 23, 2014

Hey guys, I just installed my elocker axle and I noticed that my sway bar sits right on top of the elocker actuator. I have parked my car since then because I don't want to risk hurting the elocker. What is the best solution?

4eigner · Jul 23, 2014

Are you sitting on a lift?
If so, some have said that even with extended end links they still contact.

solution:

( - sway bar)

kolelt · Jul 23, 2014

I was wondering, would it be possible to notch the sway bar and reweld like a upside down U around the elocker ??

MStudt · Jul 23, 2014

If you're on stock links and lifted this could be your problem. With longer links the sway bar is going to sit higher above the elocker. I'm pretty sure we only have only style sway for the 3rd gen's. If you have stock links, the bend in the sway bar is going to be super close the locker housing. Extended links will re-position the sway bar, and get the bend high above the housing.

So Many Roads · Jul 23, 2014

OP – what kind of springs are you using in the rear?

Here is another thread you might be interested in: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/116479-warning-members-e-locker-retrofit.html

I have a sway bar from an e-locker axle and a non e-locker axle and can confirm they are identical. [MENTION=91297]Kraze[/MENTION] says in that thread that adding longer sway bar links didn’t resolve his issue.

Sonoran Steel sells a sway bar extension bracket (raises the point where the sway bar bolts to the axle) he said it is designed to work with a 4” lift, so that looks like the best option.

I just put in OME 906’s in the rear; with stock sway bar end links the sway bar is about 3mm away from the elocker motor so I am interested in this issue as well. Interested to see what other solutions folks have come up with.
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MStudt · Jul 23, 2014

DanKendall6 said:
Hey guys, I just installed my elocker axle and I noticed that my sway bar sits right on top of the elocker actuator. I have parked my car since then because I don't want to risk hurting the elocker. What is the best solution?

What year did your axle come from. If it's from a 3rd Gen the sway bars are the same. If it's from a 2nd Gen the sway bars are different. Same elocker, but the housings are a bit different.

DanKendall6 · Jul 24, 2014

Yeah I have ome 890s. I don't feel comfortable deleting the sway bar because I drive mountain roads everyday and already don't like the sway it has right now. I've heard that welding the swaybar makes the swaybar not function the same. I'm thinking about buying extended links but it looks like that's my only option. I called the guy at sonoran steel and he told me it'd only work for 4 in of lift or more ie. Lc 80 coils. The axle is from a 200 going on a 97

MStudt · Jul 24, 2014

DanKendall6 said:
Yeah I have ome 890s. I don't feel comfortable deleting the sway bar because I drive mountain roads everyday and already don't like the sway it has right now. I've heard that welding the swaybar makes the swaybar not function the same. I'm thinking about buying extended links but it looks like that's my only option. I called the guy at sonoran steel and he told me it'd only work for 4 in of lift or more ie. Lc 80 coils. The axle is from a 200 going on a 97

I theory longer links "should" solve your problem. With stock link and a lift, you sway bar is going to be pulling upward where you're links are. In turn. this is going to push the bend in the sway bar downward causing it to contact the elocker.

wrench.n.wheel · Jun 18, 2018

Mstudt, per the quotes below it looks like both sway bars are identical: Elocked vs non elocked.

What would be a solution to the rear sway hitting the actuator housing? Other than removing the sway altogether.

So Many Roads said:
 OP – what kind of springs are you using in the rear?

Here is another thread you might be interested in: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/116479-warning-members-e-locker-retrofit.html

I have a sway bar from an e-locker axle and a non e-locker axle and can confirm they are identical. [MENTION=91297]Kraze[/MENTION] says in that thread that adding longer sway bar links didn’t resolve his issue.

Sonoran Steel sells a sway bar extension bracket (raises the point where the sway bar bolts to the axle) he said it is designed to work with a 4” lift, so that looks like the best option.

I just put in OME 906’s in the rear; with stock sway bar end links the sway bar is about 3mm away from the elocker motor so I am interested in this issue as well. Interested to see what other solutions folks have come up with.

MStudt said:
I theory longer links "should" solve your problem. With stock link and a lift, you sway bar is going to be pulling upward where you're links are. In turn. this is going to push the bend in the sway bar downward causing it to contact the elocker.

mtbtim · Jun 18, 2018

krutoydiesel said:
Mstudt, per the quotes below it looks like both sway bars are identical: Elocked vs non elocked.

What would be a solution to the rear sway hitting the actuator housing? Other than removing the sway altogether.

Sonoran Steel makes lift brackets for the rear sway bar that keep the bar well away from the e-locker actuator. Contact Steve at Sonoran Steel. Or, fab up you own.

I just helped do an e-locker swap for another member yesterday and he owns [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] extended links and the sway bar is rubbing against the top of the e-locker. So, extended links don't do anything I can see to help prevent the sway bar from hitting the e-locker.

MStudt · Jun 18, 2018

mtbtim said:
Sonoran Steel makes lift brackets for the rear sway bar that keep the bar well away from the e-locker actuator. Contact Steve at Sonoran Steel. Or, fab up you own.

I just helped do an e-locker swap for another member yesterday and he owns [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] extended links and the sway bar is rubbing against the top of the e-locker. So, extended links don't do anything I can see to help prevent the sway bar from hitting the e-locker.

Just to clarify. This is NOT an issue with my links not working with an e-locker setup!

If my links are causing the sway bar to hit the actuator then so would any other link on the market. Having longer link will help some, but obviously aren't going to cure the contact issue. If you have shorter links you're only going to hit to actuator sooner then with longer links.

Even if you ran OEM front links on the rear you're going to get the same outcome. The relocation bracket from Sonoran Steel is the only option that's going to work. Unless you want to fab it up on your own.

mtbtim · Jun 18, 2018

MStudt said:
Just to clarify. This is NOT an issue with my links not working with an e-locker setup!

If my links are causing the sway bar to hit the actuator then so would any other link on the market. Having longer link will help some, but obviously aren't going to cure the contact issue. If you have shorter links you're only going to hit to actuator sooner then with longer links.

Even if you ran OEM front links on the rear you're going to get the same outcome. The relocation bracket from Sonoran Steel is the only option that's going to work. Unless you want to fab it up on your own.

Yep, just wanted to clarify that the extended links don't really help the situation of the sway bar hitting the e-locker actuator. For sure you'd be rubbing with the OEM length end links as well.

wrench.n.wheel · Jun 19, 2018

I just wanted to confirm. Since I am having the issue with my vehicle. The links are NOT at fault. It is simply how the sway bar is being held onto the axle itself at the brackets that causes it to bind against the actuator housing regardless of the length of links.

Solution: Sonoran Steel sway bar relocation brackets + back to stock length links.

Mstudt: Running a sway bar thats 1" closer to the links means I need stock links again correct?

MStudt said:
Just to clarify. This is NOT an issue with my links not working with an e-locker setup!

If my links are causing the sway bar to hit the actuator then so would any other link on the market. Having longer link will help some, but obviously aren't going to cure the contact issue. If you have shorter links you're only going to hit to actuator sooner then with longer links.

Even if you ran OEM front links on the rear you're going to get the same outcome. The relocation bracket from Sonoran Steel is the only option that's going to work. Unless you want to fab it up on your own.

mtbtim said:
Yep, just wanted to clarify that the extended links don't really help the situation of the sway bar hitting the e-locker actuator. For sure you'd be rubbing with the OEM length end links as well.

Scramble · Jun 19, 2018

I need to get these brackets AND run them with extended sway bar links for the road & probably no sway bar for off road.

wrench.n.wheel · Jun 20, 2018

Scramble said:
I need to get these brackets AND run them with extended sway bar links for the road & probably no sway bar for off road.

Same, I'm not driving my 4runner for the very reason that the sway bar is rubbing on the actuator housing protective plate. Offroading will probably cause some damage. Sent Sonoran Steel an email and put in a phone call. No response.

Scramble · Jun 21, 2018

krutoydiesel said:
Same, I'm not driving my 4runner for the very reason that the sway bar is rubbing on the actuator housing protective plate. Offroading will probably cause some damage. Sent Sonoran Steel an email and put in a phone call. No response.

They're on vacation, I'm gonna order the brackets & rear body mounts when they get back. (I have a Shrockworks rear bumper on order)

96RedRunner · Jun 21, 2018

I had the SS1.2 lift on my 96 with S/B relocate brackets. Very simple to fab your own and much cheaper, since it got totaled I can't get the measurements for you.
Will try to describe it for you.
1/4" thick flat bar x the width of S/B bushing mount.
The S/B bushing/SB gets centered over OE upper bushing mount bolt head, I had to cut hole in flat surface of bushing so it would set correctly over upper bolt head.
Then measure from lower OE mount position to new upper mount position for
overall length.
Hope this makes sense.

St Runner posted pictures of when he made his own.

wrench.n.wheel · Jun 21, 2018

Time, money on drill bits, and tap bit might be more expensive then just ordering it from him.

per the website I thought he was back yesterday

96RedRunner said:
I had the SS1.2 lift on my 96 with S/B relocate brackets. Very simple to fab your own and much cheaper, since it got totaled I can't get the measurements for you.
Will try to describe it for you.
1/4" thick flat bar x the width of S/B bushing mount.
The S/B bushing/SB gets centered over OE upper bushing mount bolt head, I had to cut hole in flat surface of bushing so it would set correctly over upper bolt head.
Then measure from lower OE mount position to new upper mount position for
overall length.
Hope this makes sense.

St Runner posted pictures of when he made his own.

96RedRunner · Jun 21, 2018

krutoydiesel said:
Time, money on drill bits, and tap bit might be more expensive then just ordering it from him.

True, guess my statement applies to those of us that have all the supplies needed to make them then, it's not rocket science to relocate S/B.

wrench.n.wheel · Jun 21, 2018

96RedRunner said:
True, guess my statement applies to those of us that have all the supplies needed to make them then, it's not rocket science to relocate S/B.

The brackets are $30 from Sonoran Steel, they don't sell them on the website so you have to put a call into the shop to get em. Just ordered mine.

Swaybar hitting elocker!

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