Scott@Hightech
New member
Nice!!
Nice!!
Another update... heading to ECGS in Raleigh on Thursday/Friday for front and rear ARB air locker install! Stay tuned!
Next week prior to xmas I'm going to have to play catch up... on that list of things is redoing the door handles with Plasti Dip, giving it a good wash, putting in the winch/line/thimble, reinstalling headlights, and wiring up the compressor and lockers. May not even get to it all. Staying busy!
After xmas I'm up at High Tech getting TC LCAs on and having Scott adjust my suspension to perfection.
Today I put in my order for the Icon multi-rate springs, which will go on around the same time I install the CBI rear bumper.
Another update... heading to ECGS in Raleigh on Thursday/Friday for front and rear ARB air locker install! Stay tuned!
Next week prior to xmas I'm going to have to play catch up... on that list of things is redoing the door handles with Plasti Dip, giving it a good wash, putting in the winch/line/thimble, reinstalling headlights, and wiring up the compressor and lockers. May not even get to it all. Staying busy!
After xmas I'm up at High Tech getting TC LCAs on and having Scott adjust my suspension to perfection.
Today I put in my order for the Icon multi-rate springs, which will go on around the same time I install the CBI rear bumper.
Highly recommend the regear at the same time if you were on the fence. Love my lockers. Only used them once but hey, only had them for 3 weeks!
I drive too much on the interstate to justify it I think. If the 5th Gens could take 35"s then I'd go that route and re-gear, but there's no way 35"s are going to fit.
My main drive I'm doing about 79mph (speed limit 70) for at least 80 miles or so. What kind of RPMs are you hitting at 70mph and what kind of gas mileage are you getting in the 65-75 mph range? That is a pretty large part of my decision. I'm already down to about 14mpg in that range and even less over 75mph...
What are the advantages of the re-gear, besides being able to accelerate faster and having more low-end torque? I have asked this question on the forum before but would like your personal input since you advocate it so strongly... not picking on you, just genuinely interested in your opinion.
I am sitting at about 2700 rpm at 75. 80 hits close to 3000rpm. I usually drive between 70-75 and mixed driving I get 14-15mpg (really no difference in town or out). Honestly the gears didn’t hurt that bad. The tires and lift were the biggest contributors to the lower gas milage. I run 33s but liked the regear for when I am fully loaded (plus, we both have put a lot of extra weight on our trucks). Gets the pep back to stock if not a little more as torque feels more accessible. I’ve worked out that each loss of 1MPG costs about $4.50/fuel up and that was worth it to me. Does so much better slow speed over rocks/obstacles and really feels better to drive. You might be purchasing an extra gallon of gas worth with the “loss” for fuel milage but you are also putting much less stress on the drivetrain given how much steel you have added.
Edit: The worst I have had was 13.5MPG when I was really heavy footing it for some time on the freeway (80-85 mph for about 200 miles).
Edit #2: Another thing is that with your lockers (especially your front lockers), you want to be able to finesse your truck slowly over obstacles rather than mashing the skinny pedal. IFS locked out can be dangerous for your boots etc. The slower you can go, the more control you have. With all the new traction abilities you’ll have with front and rear lockers, being able to have the torque to move the truck over/up/down obstacles will mean that you are much much easier on your suspension and can keep under control at all times.
Truck is at ECGS at the moment. Decided to go for it with the re-gear!
This is an expensive project!
Picked up my rig yesterday from ECGS. They did an awesome job mounting up the compressor and manifold... Very pleased. This thing is stout!
Tomorrow or Monday I'll be doing the electrical wiring on everything.
FYI the clunk noise I had been hearing was from my driver side UCA shifting. It sounded for sure like it was coming from passenger side but it wasn't. When the original joke-show shop (Production Off Road in VA Beach) initially installed the UCAs they used two of the proper washers and two of the (thinner) OEM washers. This caused the overall assembly to not extend to where the threads stop on the UCA long bolt, so even though the nut was tight, it wasn't tight against the entire UCA. Scott identified it and got me all set up.
Comments on the regear? That may very well be my next mod.
My 5th gear only works going down hill at this point, so I think I can convince myself I will save money with 456 gears (and ARB locker for front) in the long run...
Finally got around to installing all the electrical work for my compressor, lockers, and winch. This isn't the absolute finished product (I cleaned it up a lot), but you get the idea.
In other electrical news, my passenger side turn signal circuit sporadically goes out. I'll be driving, prep for a turn by blinking the signal and it'll work great. Sometimes it'll randomly start blinking fast and then randomly go back to normal. Something I have noticed is I if I toggle the headlights they will reset and go back to normal flashing. Odd. I'm thinking a faulty bulb housing with the contacts just barely out of reach (so they make contact sometimes).
First the bad news- all those switches in that picture are sideways...
About your blinker, you have a loose bulb or a bad connection at the bulb. I have had the same exact issue and it was the DRL/turn signal bulb. For some reason certain bulbs fail to make contact properly in that socket. Some bulbs work fine, others do not.
Trucks looking good!