Switched to synthetic and now burning oil.

poser

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Not so much a question, just venting.
I picked up a fairly high mile (163k) 3rd gen back in July. Changed the oil the a few weeks ago and decided to switch to synthetic. Mobil1 was on sale at Costco. Since then I've been smelling burning oil. I checked the oil and the level is still good. I haven't looked, but I'm guess it's a head gasket.
 
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I haven't checked yet, but I hope you guys are right. I'll poke around tomorrow or the next day. Thanks!
 
I haven't checked yet, but I hope you guys are right. I'll poke around tomorrow or the next day. Thanks!

That's a pretty common occurrence when switching to synthetic...No doubt the stuff is far superior to the old but man, the stuff just goes right through old seals and gaskets...I tend to stick with a good quality non-synthetic on older or higher mileage engines if they haven't been on synthetic all along.
 
Agree

That's a pretty common occurrence when switching to synthetic...No doubt the stuff is far superior to the old but man, the stuff just goes right through old seals and gaskets...I tend to stick with a good quality non-synthetic on older or higher mileage engines if they haven't been on synthetic all along.

^^^^^ Agree
 
Being in TX I'd personally use either Mobil Super High Mileage 10w-30 or Maxlife in the red jug. Change it every 4000 to 5000 miles and have no worries.

Check the vc gaskets along with the cam plugs and half moons (semi circular plugs). The FIPG that holds in the latter lasts only so long.
 
Not so much a question, just venting.
I picked up a fairly high mile (163k) 3rd gen back in July. Changed the oil the a few weeks ago and decided to switch to synthetic. Mobil1 was on sale at Costco. Since then I've been smelling burning oil. I checked the oil and the level is still good. I haven't looked, but I'm guess it's a head gasket.

"Smell burning oil"...From the exhaust? Or from the hot engine area?
Valve covers leaking is very common on these no matter what oil is used; the leaked oil can dribble down onto hot parts below. Sometimes merely tightening just the accessible screws on the VCs can stop a leak....it did on mine, for now.

I've had 4 used Toyota trucks(including my present 4R) with mileages varying from 96K to 180K that I've changed to syn, and not had any occurances.
 
"Smell burning oil"...From the exhaust? Or from the hot engine area?

Valve covers leaking is very common on these no matter what oil is used; the leaked oil can dribble down onto hot parts below. Sometimes merely tightening just the accessible screws on the VCs can stop a leak....it did on mine, for now.



I've had 4 used Toyota trucks(including my present 4R) with mileages varying from 96K to 180K that I've changed to syn, and not had any occurances.


The smell is definitely coming from the engine area. I'll give it a good look tomorrow and report back.
 
check your oil filter and make sure its tight. I switched to synthetic and my filter backed off and leaked. And I aint no punk it was tight to begin with.
 
As has already been said, I'd say valve cover gaskets. Had the exact same issue with mine. Turns out most of the bolts for the valve covers weren't even finger tight. I swapped mine out and torqued em down and I'm good now.

I personally don't think that's a reason to not use synthetic.. But that's just me. I started using synthetic around 140K-150K and I'm at 193K and I'm doing great. I use Amsoil which I highly recommend.

FYI: If you do change Valve Cover Gaskets yourself (which isn't that difficult), I would recommend leaving the spark plug tube gaskets alone. Unless you just want to do them. Took me 2 hours to get the old ones out. And once you start hacking away, you can't put them back obviously, so you have to finish. I ended up doing one side and leaving the other side alone as I also ruined 2 of the new ones in the process. My old ones were fine...

Also, if you do it, go ahead and replace Intake Manifold Gasket, Throttle Body Gasket, and IAC Valve Gasket. And clean all of those out. Will cost you $40 for parts on Amazon and your truck will love you for it.:-)

Good time to do the plugs and wires as well if you haven't already...
 
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I would just do the valve cover gaskets, they've probably never been done and it's not very difficult. There are a few tutorials floating around here with pics. I wouldn't take any shortcuts while you're in there either, definitely change your spark plug seals, they only took me about 20 mins to R&R all 6 with a small flathead and some needle nose pliers (not too sure why people complain about these). My valve cover gaskets themselves were fine (changed anyway), mine was leaking at the semi circular plugs like others mentioned, the FIPG was crusty old and oil was dripping right on the exhaust in front of driver's side. Doing the job correctly is much more rewarding than just trying to band-aid the problem by tightening bolts, some guys have cracked their valve covers overtightening the bolts.
 
Since mobil 1 shears down to the viscosity of water over time, that may be your problem.

I've never actually heard that, but I do believe that the regular stuff(not the Extended Performance) is quite thin compared to other brands. My BMW's V8 was making some pretty freaky knocking/ticking noises with the M1 5W30 from Costco. I switched it to Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 and it become totally silent. I didn't think it would be so drastic but it made me stay far away from that oil.
 
I am not sure I follow.:der:

I'd use Mobil 1 any day in any engine, great oil FWIW.:thumb:

My prior car would drink mobil 1 and the lifters would make a horrendous noise, when I switch all the problems went a way.

Doing a little research showed why. It consistently gets poor UOAs and it was (not sure now) not a true synthetic. Check out BITOG. I generally despise it.
 
Man, this has me worried now... I've only been using Mobil 1 in my '97, for 17+ years now. The last time I checked the valve clearances out of boredom, they were still in spec. and have never needed adjustment. The engine was and is spotless internally, and runs as smooth and quietly as it did the day I bought it brand new off the lot.

But hearing the revelation that Mobil 1 is bad, well, now I'll be sure to switch to something else..

As for BITOG, there are a few individuals that actually know what they are talking about, and many more that spout misinformation. Just like every Forum I've seen.
 
Man, this has me worried now... I've only been using Mobil 1 in my '97, for 17+ years now. The last time I checked the valve clearances out of boredom, they were still in spec. and have never needed adjustment. The engine was and is spotless internally, and runs as smooth and quietly as it did the day I bought it brand new off the lot.

But hearing the revelation that Mobil 1 is bad, well, now I'll be sure to switch to something else..

As for BITOG, there are a few individuals that actually know what they are talking about, and many more that spout misinformation. Just like every Forum I've seen.

Not necessarily bad. Some engines may just be pickier with oil than others I guess. It was just what I had noticed in my other cars. I ran it years ago in the 10W30 flavor in my 5VZ and it didn't seem to care. I used M1 in the appropriate grades for BMW's and Porsche's as well with good results. Formulations could have changed in a decade but who knows what happened.
 
I wasn't actually worried. :)

I've also used it in BMW's and Porsche's, as well as many other brands of cars and Motorcycles. Never an issue.
 
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I wasn't actually worried. :)

I've also used it in BMW's and Porsche's, as well as many other brands of cars and Motorcycles. Never an issue.

I could tell the sarcasm. I guess I just can't say I would use regular M1 in the 5W30 grade for a BMW M60 V8. However, your results may vary. I use their gear oil and ATF and it is great stuff that you can purchase at any local auto store.
 

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