T-case Differences (all years of 3rd gens).. transfer case, AWD, multi-mode

[brian2sun]

Sooo.... just reading this thread now. Owned my rig since January 2015. Over the winter, I had engaged 4HI on my '97 Limited quite a number of times when the roads were sketchy, but in some cases still fairly dry.

The problem is that when it's really cold out, even though there might not be visible ice and pavement is dry, I get really crappy traction in 2WD mode with my BFG M/T KM's and no Traction Control or VSC nannies to speak of aside from ABS.

Hell, I get crappy 2WD traction even in the summer when the pavement is nothing more than just wet.

I experienced some binding twice, but that was when trying to navigate parking lots on 2 seperate occasions. I learned quickly that if I'd be doing mildly tight turns, I need to disengage 4HI before doing so.

Anywho, this thread is a bit of an eye opener because I used 4HI at highway speeds before (60MPH) in the above mentioned conditions, but now I'm reading that I shouldn't have been doing that.

I guess I'll have to be a little more careful with my 4HI usage this coming winter. I was hoping for the peace of mind of being able to engage it in mild "better safe than sorry" cold conditions where the roads might be dry (or seem dry) for the most part, but you never know when you could lose traction at any moment's notice.

Looks like I should have looked for a '99-'00 with multi-mode instead.

Anywho, still love my '97 for its Off-road capability, just bummed to find out it is less pavement friendly than I initially thought.

Your safety is always more important than the risk of binding up your 4wd, so if you feel you may need it to keep you from spinning off the road on patchy snow/ice, then by all means put it in 4wd and don't think twice about it. It would still take A LOT of driving in 4wd on dry roads to actually ruin your 4wd. When I wrote this thread, the parts about when to use what was mainly to caution people against driving in 4wd on dry roads, and to avoid it when you safely can.

 

[JJ300K]

I really didn't think the different drive train setups through and wish I had read this thread first before bought my 1998. But it took me more than a year to find a decent 3rd Gen and I am really enjoying it. I'll throw it in 4HI if the roads get dicey.

 

[eurasiaoverland]

New member here, from Europe. I have a 1996 Japanese 3rd gen 2.7l manual which I just bought. They are super-rare here so I just took what came along.

Mine has a H-N-L shifter with a push-button 4WD switch on the side.

I am new to this configuration and wanted to ask a few questions:

1 As I understand, these early 3rd gens have no centre diff in the transfer, so in 4WD the front and rear axles are locked. Is this correct?

2 The transfer shifter has a 4WD button; as I understand this operates a vacuum switch and engages the front diff. Will it only do this with the push of the button, or will the system over-ride it at certain times?

3 How reliable is this vacuum-operated differential system? Does it cut out when the engine stops? Do they tend to decay like the diff e-locker actuators?

4 What lights should come on the dashboard when the 4WD button is pushed? Are there separate lights to recognise the button-push and confirm that the system is engaged?

5 The low-range. Will engaging low-range automatically engage 4WD, or do I effectively have low-range in RWD also?

6 How do the front hubs lock? Or are they locked all the time? I assume they stay locked in reverse?

Anything else I should know about the system? Weak points etc? I need to know that it's in good working order

Sorry for these elementary questions, but I don't have access to the truck just now and I am used to the fully mechanical transfer shift in my pickup.

Cheers

 

[T4R2014]

New member here, from Europe. I have a 1996 Japanese 3rd gen 2.7l manual which I just bought. They are super-rare here so I just took what came along.

Mine has a H-N-L shifter with a push-button 4WD switch on the side.

I am new to this configuration and wanted to ask a few questions:

1 As I understand, these early 3rd gens have no centre diff in the transfer, so in 4WD the front and rear axles are locked. Is this correct?

2 The transfer shifter has a 4WD button; as I understand this operates a vacuum switch and engages the front diff. Will it only do this with the push of the button, or will the system over-ride it at certain times?

3 How reliable is this vacuum-operated differential system? Does it cut out when the engine stops? Do they tend to decay like the diff e-locker actuators?

4 What lights should come on the dashboard when the 4WD button is pushed? Are there separate lights to recognise the button-push and confirm that the system is engaged?

5 The low-range. Will engaging low-range automatically engage 4WD, or do I effectively have low-range in RWD also?

6 How do the front hubs lock? Or are they locked all the time? I assume they stay locked in reverse?

Anything else I should know about the system? Weak points etc? I need to know that it's in good working order

Sorry for these elementary questions, but I don't have access to the truck just now and I am used to the fully mechanical transfer shift in my pickup.

Cheers

It seems like yours has the same transfer case as a North American spec 96-98 4Runner Limited. No center diff. There is no system to override the actuation of the front diff. I would call the system pretty reliable. My e-locker actuator still works like a dream after 20 years. Low range is 4WD-only, but there is a modification to allow low range in 2WD. Reversing does not affect the locking/unlocking of the hubs.

 

[eurasiaoverland]

It seems like yours has the same transfer case as a North American spec 96-98 4Runner Limited. No center diff. There is no system to override the actuation of the front diff. I would call the system pretty reliable. My e-locker actuator still works like a dream after 20 years. Low range is 4WD-only, but there is a modification to allow low range in 2WD. Reversing does not affect the locking/unlocking of the hubs.

Hey, thanks a lot for your answers, sounds pretty much as I thought. Looking forward to getting the vehicle onto some grass and testing it out. Just one further question though; if low-range is 4WD only, and the 4WD button is not overridden automatically, what happens when I put it in low-range without the 4WD button being engaged?

Thanks

EO

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Hey, thanks a lot for your answers, sounds pretty much as I thought. Looking forward to getting the vehicle onto some grass and testing it out. Just one further question though; if low-range is 4WD only, and the 4WD button is not overridden automatically, what happens when I put it in low-range without the 4WD button being engaged?



Thanks



EO

For my 97 limited, selecting low range automatically illuminates the 4wd light. No matter if button is pushed or not.

 

[eurasiaoverland]

For my 97 limited, selecting low range automatically illuminates the 4wd light. No matter if button is pushed or not.

So this would suggest then that shifting to L overrides the 4WD push-button and engages the front diff?

 

[SpidermanGeek]

So this would suggest then that shifting to L overrides the 4WD push-button and engages the front diff?

Yes, because there's no RWD only Low Range.

It's 2H, 4H or 4L

You throw in options like Center or Rear Dif locks, but ultimately, there are just those 3 main options in a traditional 4WD drivetrain.

 

[thatoneguygeoff]

So any idea why my 97 limited would have the "J" type you have listed coming in the 96-00 SR5's?

 

[brian2sun]

So any idea why my 97 limited would have the "J" type you have listed coming in the 96-00 SR5's?

Are you sure yours is actually a Limited (there wasn't that much of a difference back then besides the t-case shifter... since you could get SR5s with most of the "Limited" features like leather seats, faux wood grain dash, etc..)? Maybe a PO put a Limited badge on it to try to sell it for more $$ at some point?

Anybody else have a ~'97 Limited without the push button? I've never seen/heard of any.

 

[thatoneguygeoff]

It's definitely a Limited. The original window tag was in the clove box with the manual when I bought it

 

[T4R2014]

It's definitely a Limited. The original window tag was in the clove box with the manual when I bought it

No such thing as a 96-98 Limited with a J-shifter from the factory. I guarantee it. Pics of your 4WD lever and window sticker would be helpful. Judging by the fender flares in your profile pic, it looks like a Limited.

Edit: Found your build and saw pics of the J-shifter. Then I ran an autocheck off your license plate. Your 4Runner was born a Limited, but the transfer has to have been swapped at some point. Toyota doesn't build unicorns like this.

 

[brandonhugg]

Dang this thread has covered some years. 97 4runner SR5 Needs this threads expertise

Hello :usa:

So background of my runner. 97 SR5 V6 auto Jshift(obviously) 140000 miles
New radiator and trans cooler. Went wheeling in the Rocky Mountains where we are getting pounded with snow. Went into 4 lo when done snow wheeling(lots and lots of deep snow. I feel like that my be important info) went into 2wd and it felt like neutral was still active. Basically 4lo is the only option that drives for me. All gears work great shifts are solid like normal in 4lo. Ive been a toyota owner my whole life I know how to get it out of 4lo. The T/C shifts fine the 4x4 indicator goes on and off MOST of the time during this problem. When I unlock the 4wd the front drive line frees up. Ive tried everything sept take it to a tranny repair because i dont want them to tell me I need a new tranny and T/C.
Fluids are full..... no smell of roasted tranny.... I believe for a short time today it went into two wheel drive. When I take it out of 4lo it stays there eventually popping pack into neutral on T/C where it feels and act like neutral in 2wd and 4hi.

HELP ME!!

Thank you

Brandon

 

[xcghjchj]

That's why I was thinking the ECM would have to be swapped too, but that may interfere with the 5 spd (running an ECM out of an auto). I would try to confirm before you pay for anything because I'm not sure if it would all jive.

 

[brandonhugg]

Still Could USE HELP

Bump

 

[brian2sun]

Brandon, my best guess is you blew out the T-case. Whatever it is, it needs to go into a good shop for proper diagnosis.

 

[zachmik0]

I think I understand this but...

I'd just like to clarify something before i go out and spend money. I have a center diff lock. I want to add a rear e-locker. Will that, or should that, drop right in to the rear Diff? And… Do I need to do anything to the center diff lock? I'm thinking i don't, but would have to be sure to use it in conjunction w/ the center diff lock in 4Lo only… Correct?

 

[brian2sun]

I'd just like to clarify something before i go out and spend money. I have a center diff lock. I want to add a rear e-locker. Will that, or should that, drop right in to the rear Diff? And… Do I need to do anything to the center diff lock? I'm thinking i don't, but would have to be sure to use it in conjunction w/ the center diff lock in 4Lo only… Correct?

A factory elocker will not simply drop in to your existing axle without modification to the housing (grinding and welding). There are threads about this if you want to look into it further. You can get a selectable aftermarket locker (ARB) that will drop right in though. And there are less expensive auto locker options like the Aussie that also drop in.

You don't need to do anything with your center diff locker to install any kind of rear locker, they are independent of eachother as far as use and installation. From the factory, the elocker can only be used in 4LO, but there is a mod to bypass that (search "grey wire mod" for more info). If you install an elocker after the fact though, you'd wire it up yourself, and no reason to limit it to only 4LO.

 

[jstim]

So I'm looking at a possible '02 SR5, and what I have taken from this is that I am stuck with that dreaded push button, unless I pull out the trans case and drop one in with a J shifter. And if I do I don't have to worry about the ecm freaking out?

Now that that is out of the way, because that was one of my concerns, are the '02s the ones with that wonky awd stuff that I have to be worried about? Any help is appreciated.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

So I'm looking at a possible '02 SR5, and what I have taken from this is that I am stuck with that dreaded push button, unless I pull out the trans case and drop one in with a J shifter. And if I do I don't have to worry about the ecm freaking out?



Now that that is out of the way, because that was one of my concerns, are the '02s the ones with that wonky awd stuff that I have to be worried about? Any help is appreciated.

You know, my 97 Limited has the push button transfer case and the 96 that got wrecked and I kept for parts has the J shifter type. The last two winters the first time out my wife gives me the pissed off phone call about the 4wd not working. I mention pushing in the button, And the phone calls stop for the rest of the season. Never had the problem with the J shifter. She automatically knew what to do because her Cummins had the same setup. And my Cummins still does.

It be worth swapping out just to eliminate the confusion if the modules would play well together.