T-case woe's

smokey73

smokey73

New member
I've been chasing a popping noise for about a week now. I narrowed it down to the t-case. I figured it wouldn't hurt anything to go ahead and change the oil and look for metal on the plug. I've had the oil sitting there for about a week anyway. I pulled the drain plug, and nothing, no oil. I just bought this thing about 2 weeks ago. i'd planned on changing all the oils next weekend, but I assumed it still had some in it! I pulled the t-case and split it open. There was a ton of shavings coming out of the differential drum. I didn't even try to see how bad it really was, I called a junkyard and found a pullout locally. I figure if it's got oil in it, I'm a step ahead.
 
Register to hide this ad
Wow that stinks. Make sure the actuator works on the boneyard unit before putting it into the truck. If it doesn't work, you'll have to pull and split the case again to change it.
 
I'm in the same boat can u post a video of the popping noise. Same exact thing I think and no oil in my T case either.
 
When I figure out the whole picture thing I'll try to post some. It's too late for the video, I've already pulled the t-case. It would pop loud and hard when you accelerated, from a dead stop or even while going down the highway. Turning off the VSC made it a little better. At first I thought it was the CV joint and I replaced the one with a torn boot. It sounded almost like an automatic rifle and you could feel it in the floor. With the window down or the door open, it was real loud.
 
I didn't heed the advice given. I swapped out the t-case with the one from the junk yard. I think the actuator may be stuck. It stays in 4hi, but unless the switch is in 4lo, it beeps at you and I never hear anything from the actuator. At least I can drive it for now and get the seals that I didn't have time to get today and do it all over again when I have more time. I think I can have it out, swap the actuator and change the seals and back in again in about an hour and a half
 
Last edited:
I still paid $900 even for the junkyard t-case (I used my farm tax ID and didn't pay tax, apparently that junkyard sells the rare transfer case from a 4runner that fits a John Deere tractor). The cheapest one I could find was $850 on ebay
 
Before you take the actuator out be careful, if one of the rods come out there is no literature to reinsert and get the "timing" right. And a Second note, if you have a spare actuator to sell that the rods have not been removes nor fell out PM me please. I cannot get the timing right on the actuator. It's insane.
 
An hour and a half? The toyota master tech I talked to said it takes him 8 hours to do an actuator. I'm debating doing it my self or paying him.
 
Book time may be 8 hrs since I believe the "proper" procedure is to drop the trans and t-case as one unit to do the job. If you have access to a lift, I think you can split the t-case while it's still mounted under the truck which obviously saves a ton of time.
 
K_Labs said:
I don't have a lift. Can Smokey73 chime in and say whether or not he used a lift?
Click to expand...
I didn't use a lift. I put the car on jackstands (so my gut would fit under it) and manhandled the t-case in and out, being very cautious not to tear the trans seal in the process. Not sure how much it weighs, but if you haven't had your Weaties, use a good floor jack or something to support it coming out and going in. I think I had it out in about 20-30 minutes and about the same to go in with the junk yard special. Splitting it was no problem. I used a 3 jaw puller, but I believe that a couple of well placed prybars would have done the trick, it came off very easily. Once it is split, the shift forks and c-clips are easy to get to to get the actuator off.
Jagerzel said:
Before you take the actuator out be careful, if one of the rods come out there is no literature to reinsert and get the "timing" right. And a Second note, if you have a spare actuator to sell that the rods have not been removes nor fell out PM me please. I cannot get the timing right on the actuator. It's insane.
Click to expand...
unfortunately, the rods fell out of the actuator from my old unit
 
No More Woes

I did get the actuator to start shifting like it's supposed to. I loosened the three bolts that mount it and pryed it out about 1/2in or so and cycled it. The first couple times i turned the knob back and forth, nothing happened. After the third or forth time I heard the actuator moving I tried the diff lock and it was working. I pushed the actuator back in and tightened the bolts and tried everything again. I took several tries and some rocking back and forth, but it eventually started working correctly. After a good 40 mile shake down run, it works smooth as glass.
 
I will have to try that. But another word of caution for the peanut gallery is that from what I can tell, by rebuilding mine, is that it is possible to tear the seals around the rods by the rods teeth rubbing against them. If these seals tear, transfer case oil will enter the actuator assy and destroy it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 179 (members: 0, guests: 179)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,045
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top