Tacoma Manual Hubs

You need a floor jack and jack stands. You could use the bottle jack that came with the 4runner.

You need a 35mm socket and rachet to get the 4runners cv half shaft out.

you need a 22mm socket to remove the wheel from the hub. The 4runners lug wrench will work too.

you need a 19mm socket to remove the bolts the hold the caliper and upper ball joint to the knuckle.

you need a 14mm socket to remove the lower ball joint from the knuckle

you need a 17mm socket to remove the outer tie rod from the knuckle.

you need a 10mm socket the remove the abs senor from the knuckle.

you need a 12mm socket to remove the clamps that hold the brake lines and abs wires to the knuckle.

You need a heavy duty puller to push the hub out of the knuckle.

You need a circle clip pliers to remove the circle clips from the knuckle.

You need a 4 pin spanner socket to remove the spindle nut that hold the manual hubs into the Tacoma hub.

You need a punch and a hammer to restake the spindle nut upon assembly.

You need a 20 ton press, to push everything back together.
 
You need a floor jack and jack stands. You could use the bottle jack that came with the 4runner.

You need a 35mm socket and rachet to get the 4runners cv half shaft out.

you need a 22mm socket to remove the wheel from the hub. The 4runners lug wrench will work too.

you need a 19mm socket to remove the bolts the hold the caliper and upper ball joint to the knuckle.

you need a 14mm socket to remove the lower ball joint from the knuckle

you need a 17mm socket to remove the outer tie rod from the knuckle.

you need a 10mm socket the remove the abs senor from the knuckle.

you need a 12mm socket to remove the clamps that hold the brake lines and abs wires to the knuckle.

You need a heavy duty puller to push the hub out of the knuckle.

You need a circle clip pliers to remove the circle clips from the knuckle.

You need a 4 pin spanner socket to remove the spindle nut that hold the manual hubs into the Tacoma hub.

You need a punch and a hammer to restake the spindle nut upon assembly.

You need a 20 ton press, to push everything back together.

yea i have most just not the last 3 r 4 but thanks alot i appreciate it
 
Here is the part number for the Lock Nut Tool.

Toyota Lock Nut Tool-648874

The Lock nut on the back needs to be torqued to 203 FT LBS.

I found mine on Amazon. I went with a cheap $15 one. The Pins in it aren't worth a sh!t, but if you dont mind going to get new roller pins every once and a while, then it'll be fine for you.

You can Spend a little more money and go with the other ones they have there, but IMHO, I'd stick with the roller pins. They're cheap, and all you have to do is pull them out and replace them if the bend.

Some of those other ones are solid. That means that you'll have to buy a whole new tool if one of the teeth breaks.

Just my $.01.
 
Here is the part number for the Lock Nut Tool.

Toyota Lock Nut Tool-648874

The Lock nut on the back needs to be torqued to 203 FT LBS.

I found mine on Amazon. I went with a cheap $15 one. The Pins in it aren't worth a sh!t, but if you dont mind going to get new roller pins every once and a while, then it'll be fine for you.

You can Spend a little more money and go with the other ones they have there, but IMHO, I'd stick with the roller pins. They're cheap, and all you have to do is pull them out and replace them if the bend.

Some of those other ones are solid. That means that you'll have to buy a whole new tool if one of the teeth breaks.

Just my $.01.

thanks for the part # but do you no if i can find this at the local auto parts store r harbors frieght?
 
No. You can't.

Get it from Amazon, do the over night shipping, and it'll be there the next day.

It's not gonna kill you to wait for the right tool for the job...
 
No. You can't.

Get it from Amazon, do the over night shipping, and it'll be there the next day.

It's not gonna kill you to wait for the right tool for the job...

hey Doc2012 how did you get the lock nut off i tried but it wont bugde am i turning it the right way lol

544152_354878331283747_1453910815_n.jpg
 
Remember . Lefty loosey righty tighty.

yea in the pic the ratchet is on the off switch n i was turning it down words i even sledge hammerd it n try using a breaker bar so idk even no anymore maybe more pb blaster or wd40 do it (hopefully)

i read your thread by the way singtoe and am going to follow it to do mine thanks the pics help
 
hey Doc2012 how did you get the lock nut off i tried but it wont bugde am i turning it the right way lol

544152_354878331283747_1453910815_n.jpg

That Lock Nut is torques on there to 203 FT-LBS.

DON'T TAKE A SLEDGE TO IT!

Make sure the Hub is in a locked position, I.e. a vice or something like that. Don't tighten the vice so much that it will bend the studs, but enough that it will hold the hub still.

Get a LONG bar. VERY long bar. The laws of physics will help you here. You want steady, continous pressure. Not "Shock" pressure.

Put the bar on the end of the ratchet. Try to loosen it from there.

Also, IIRC, there are little tabs that are cut into the threads to keep it from comming off, so you need to use some elbow grease.

Honestly, instead of using a ratchet, I would get a half inch breaker bar. That way you don't break the ratchet and have to go buy a new one....
 

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