tbst improvement and build thread

[tbst]

Basics
2001 Toyota 4Runner SR5
Paid $7700 cash on November 15, 2011

Here is a quickly snapped photo from the day I bought it.

In this thread I will try to encompass both a build and improvement (aka maintenance) theme.

Some of the first things I did when I got it was deal with problems. The first problem I had was when registering. The moron who notarized the title didn’t emboss it. So I had to drive 1.5 hrs and get it notarized. She gave me my $10 back. No words were exchanged.

The first mechanical that I had to deal with involved getting it inspected. From there more and more little things have come up. I soon realized that this was a little bit worn 4Runner that needed some love.

So, here we go.

 

[tbst]

Index

Index
Rear Axle Seals, Part 1
Sound System Improvement, Planning Process
ARB Bumper Ordered
Tundra Brake Upgrade
Things That Need Dealt With
New Ball Joints and Tie Rods
Warn M8000 vs. Smittybilt XRC8 vs. Smittybilt X20 - Decisions, decisions
ARB Bumper Install
Interior + Tail light LEDs for $14.21

 

[tbst]

Rear Axle Seals, Part 1

As I said, when I went to get it inspected, it was rejected. The truck that I had just spent $7700 on. I barfed in my mouth. The guy at the place I got it inspected told me that getting the rear axle seals and bearings replaced was about a $700 job. Great.

However thanks to BigFishAllDay's thread (found it here), I was able to replace both the rear axle seals.

While BFAD reccomended replacing both the rear bearings at the same time, I didn't feel like throwing out that much cash. So I replaced both the rear axle seals. In the freezing cold. Some pictures of that going on are below.

REMEMBER, this is only Part 1, there is more rear axle joy to come.

One of the problems that I encountered when first doing this job was that the bolts that hold the spindle to the axle housing were not the right bolts. The right bolts pull into the rear axle spindle. These bolts were some grade 5 bolts that were too small for the job. Apparently, the guy that owned it before me hired someone totally incompetent to do the job. The right part numbers are outlined below, along with the bolts I am talking about (again, a h/t to BFAD, I stole his photo ).

I try and do things the cheap way. Even though I am an engineer by trade, I grew up under a shade tree. Most of the time a little under engineering doesn't hurt anyone (as long as it isn't structural, obvi). This works great and is a lot less than $10 for filling your rear differential.

 

[tbst]

Sound System Improvement, Planning Process

Doing this takes a lot of time, if done right. And it is still not done right. That is if you are doing it yourself.

Check out the origins of my sound system here. Special holler out needs to go to brianemc42_2 for helping me choose a good system within a reasonable monetary constraint. He outlined a specific good system for front speakers under $500, which can be found here. I would recommend following that if you want a DRASTIC improvement on your stock sound system.

I didn't follow his outline, however it would equal an amazing sound system.

In summation, my sound system is composed of the following.
1. Polk db6501 Components ($107)
2. Kicker CVR10 Subwoofer ($74)
3. MTX Bass Subwoofer Box ($40)
4. Alpine MRP-300 Speaker Amp ($139)
5. Pioneer GM 5400T Subwoofer Amp ($85)
6. KnuKonceptz Wiring Kit ($30)
7. 2 Distribution Blocks ($20)
8. RCA 14 guage speaker wire ($14)
9. Kenwood Exceleon X-395 ($89)
10. Misc other parts ($120)

Several parts of this project brought me to my wits end. The biggest thing that annoyed me about this job was not having the stuff that I needed to do it right off the bat. I can’t tell you how many times I had to run out to get this or that.

I would say that this sound system easily surpassed $700 and is still not done. I need to spend some more $ on making the door speakers sound better. (I didn’t listen to all of brianemc2_42’s advice. I thought I was alpha, turns out I am beta.)

How does it sound? Sounds really good. However, the doors do need to be enclosed to sound better. I plan to buy a jigsaw once I graduate in May to cut out a piece of MDF to fill in the doors.

I skipped rear speakers, as I don’t think they add much.

Here are the new tweeter holders I made. I used an oven and a box cutter. My finger didn’t like this very much. I would recommend using a dremel, however at the time I didn’t have one.

Goodies.

Running total before I spent another $150 or so on other misc stuff.

The installation, and tips and tricks will be in another post. And also a whole bunch of other good info from the other thread about tuning and what not.

 

[tbst]

ARB Bumper Ordered

 

[BrianSD_42]

Subscribed

[lol nevermind, I see now that you have added the audio stuff]

:surfer:

 

[RunninInGA]

Always interested in what other shade trees are doing. You don't need a jig - break out a hack saw on the mdf.

 

[tbst]

Tundra Brake Upgrade

Tundra Brake Upgrade

There is more information here than anyone should ever need. However, yes I did the Tundra brake upgrade. Paid $60 for both the calipers and $20 for each of the rotors from a junkyard, for $100 out the door. My original calipers were trashed anyway.

Now is when you may start thinking I am stupid. However, I did manage to put the caliper on upside down. Which is why I was not able to bleed the brakes.

Everyone loves photos.

Since then and with my rear axle fiasco, this is what I used to bleed the brakes along with a 10' piece of 3/8 clear hose. Just put it on the driver floor and you can watch your brakes get bleed. A lot cheaper than the Motive bleeder that is raved about.

While doing the brake upgrade, I had one of the caliper bolts snap on me. I thought this was the beginning of the end for the steering knuckle. To solve this I had to split the old caliper that was still on there. After I split it, I got some MAPP gas and heated the hell out of it. Then vice griped it out. This is the little SOB.

 

[tbst]

Things That Need Dealt With

These are things that need dealt with. Some of the stuff I have parts for some of it I still need to get em. A lot of the stuff I haven't done because I am scared of the rust. One broken bolt can equal hours of wasted time.

Front sway bar (Got parts)

Rear brakes (need to get brake tools)

Fuel filter (Have one)

Gas lines about to blow

Frame rust

Steering rag? (Is that right?)

Have had it too long. The skid plate bolts are stripped which is why it's not done.

This is still working, but will be fun one day...

Not pictured - Steering rack bushings (Got em)

 

[tbst]

Always interested in what other shade trees are doing. You don't need a jig - break out a hack saw on the mdf.

True. I was thinking about buying a sawzall that would do the trick.

If you like shade trees, you should like the break bleeder.

 

[tbst]

Subscribed

[lol nevermind, I see now that you have added the audio stuff]

:surfer:

Still though, there is a lot of good info I plan on integrating into this thread. Like how to tune your amps (mine still not done enough).

BTW, rewired everything and the X-395 with rewire makes it unbearable to listen to louder than 22 or so out of 35. As in you can't even push it.

And that Pioneer is a piece of sh!t. I will hopefully be selling it sooner than later.

 

[Duhockey]

Great work!

Just wondering, how he heck does a rear axle seal cause problems in an inspection? Im so glad I live in colorado, Ill give them emissions... but nothing else.

 

[tbst]

Great work!

Just wondering, how he heck does a rear axle seal cause problems in an inspection? Im so glad I live in colorado, Ill give them emissions... but nothing else.

It's bullshi!t. I came from Ohio where we just had echeck (emissions). No check engine lights, good to go.

Here, they do vehicle inspection. The rear axle leak causes the rear brakes not to function, so they put a red rejection sticker on your car and you have 5 days to fix it.

The biggest bogus part is that because I live in a college town, you can NEVER pass inspection, because unknowing college kids and their parents will bend over without lube.

When I got my civic inspected they said I needed new tie rods. Done. Then a year later you need new tie rods. In one year? Impossible.

 

[tbst]

New Ball Joints and Tie Rods

When I first got here, I was more prone to believe in some of the hype. Now I see that different hype comes and goes with the seasons.

Either way, I think that my LBJ needed replaced. So I replaced them. Ordered parts from toyotapartsales.com for around $160 (free black Friday shipping).

These two threads by spongerx were amazingly helpful. If you can't figure out how to do it using them, you shouldn't be doing it.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/103217-lower-ball-joint-removal-installation.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/102959-inner-tie-rod-removal-installation.html

And while I was doing it this happened. The red arrow points to a broken bolt in the steering knuckle.

I bolted three of the bolts in and limped to a buddies house, where we used an impact wrench to get the other side out. Which caused me to buy an impact wrench, but more on that later.

For the broken one I drilled it out and put a grade 8 bolt through it. I know. I MAY DIE TOMORROW! Thanks ahead of time. If the grade 8 breaks I am doomed anyway.

Here is some info on getting out a broken bolt.

And here are the part numbers you need. The lower castle nut comes with the ball joint.

 

[tbst]

Warn M8000 vs. Smittybilt XRC8 vs. Smittybilt X20 - Decisions, decisions

After ordering the ARB bumper, I realized that I may as well put sliders on hold for a bit and order a winch. I just installed a sound system, so I am ready as far as the wiring goes.

There is a great deal of talk about the Warn M8000 vs. Smittybilt XRC8. The Smittybilt X20 was thrown in as it was waterproof.

What I found is summarized in numerical data below. Basically, my results found that as far as line speed goes, the Smittybilt XRC8 surpasses the Warn M8000 in all categories except when there is no line pull. The X20 also surpasses the M8000 as far as line speed goes.

Regarding the important part, pull by layer (that is what you have a winch for, right?). The XRC8 and X20 both fall to the M8000. The XRC8 falls with 4 wraps on the drum by 1200 lbs while the X20 falls compared to the M8000 by OVER 2500 lbs.

So how did I decide on a winch? I decided by price and forum reviews, along with the data I compiled.

The Warn M8000 can be had at this time (12/14/11) for $549. The Smittybilt can be had for $299. However, I found a coupon for $30 off online and was able to buy the XRC8 from Street Side Auto for $269 shipped.

I choose the XRC8 because the specs are comparable (if not better) than the M8000. Yes, with 4 wraps on the spool the M8000 wins out. However, if I was close to pulling 5000 lbs with 4 wraps on I would spool out some more cable and use a snatch block. For me, doing this is worth $280 savings.

I should note that there is an XRC8 Comp series. This winch basically comes with synthetic line and a aluminium hawse fairlead. The difference in weight between the synthetic line and steel line is 18 lbs. While that weight difference adds up, it was not worth it for me for another $135. When the steel cable craps out, the $135 can be used for a synthetic line. The aluminium fairlead is neither here nor there for me.

I still need to buy a tree saver (I love trees ) and a snatch block. Probably have $50 or so tied up in those.

Also, going to wire a DPDT switch into the dash with a master on/off switch so I don't have to use the winch control. Also going to do this so I can use the winch control out of the cab (going to have the connection hanging out of the hood), so if I need to winch someone else I can see what's going one.

See the stats below. Note: The X20 stats were incomplete from Smittybilt.

Pull vs. Line Speed

Wrap vs. Pull

Pull vs. Amps

Win

 

[RunninInGA]

I like the analytical approach in your decision making process.

 

[Hepar]

Lookin' good! Nice write-ups too. I'm sure they'll come in handy for plenty of us.

 

[tbst]

I like the analytical approach in your decision making process.

Thanks. Doesn't mean I always end up making the best decision though.

Lookin' good! Nice write-ups too. I'm sure they'll come in handy for plenty of us.

I appreciate it. Working on some more write ups. But this thing called senior design project is eating up my time.

Bullcrap.

 

[RunninInGA]

Thanks. Doesn't mean I always end up making the best decision though.

Bullcrap.

Usually makes me over analyze. Paralysis by analysis. I'm usually a fact gatherer also.

BTW, sold some property your way last year and trying to schmooze my way into listing some more.

 

[tbst]

Usually makes me over analyze. Paralysis by analysis. I'm usually a fact gatherer also.

BTW, sold some property your way last year and trying to schmooze my way into listing some more.

Fact gathering is very time consuming. And then we both come to find different facts. Damnit!

Where abouts? Did you have the mineral rights? For a client or yourself?