The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[Speedy]

I'm at nearly sea level in middle TN and surprisingly my truck did fine from a AFR perspective with the stock pulley on the blower. In fact it would even get a bit rich in the high 10s AFR. I opened up the deck plate and put on a 2.2" URD pulley and then needed to add fuel to richen the truck back up to get the AFR in the mid 11s.

However, the pinging was a big problem at low rpms when feeding throttle. That is the worst thing for a motor, especially a supercharged one. The URD 7th injector kit comes with everything you need to fix the ping and fuel delivery so it's a no brainer.

 

[TJM]

Has there ever been a definitive answer to whether or not you should add a cold air intake or deck plate mod with a supercharger?

I researched this some time ago, and kept getting conflicting opinions: some said 'if you have a supercharger, you absolutely MUST go with a cold air intake or you just aren't cool', while others stated 'DO NOT install a cold air intake with superchargers or your engine will become a depressed Emo kid and a random kittens head will explode every time you go over 1000 RPM.'

I might have the info slightly skewed, but that gives you an idea of what I was looking at.

Has this debate ever been clarified? What about the ISR mod, would that be detrimental to a supercharged engine?

 

[Speedy]

Has there ever been a definitive answer to whether or not you should add a cold air intake or deck plate mod with a supercharger?

I researched this some time ago, and kept getting conflicting opinions: some said 'if you have a supercharger, you absolutely MUST go with a cold air intake or you just aren't cool', while others stated 'DO NOT install a cold air intake with superchargers or your engine will become a depressed Emo kid and a random kittens head will explode every time you go over 1000 RPM.'

I might have the info slightly skewed, but that gives you an idea of what I was looking at.

Has this debate ever been clarified? What about the ISR mod, would that be detrimental to a supercharged engine?

I dyno tested just about everything when I did it. I picked up about 15RWHP opening my deck plate vs. having it closed, so yeah I'd recommend it.

 

[BigBluePile]

I have a custom short stack snorkel with full 3" pipe plus a deckplate mod and 7th injector. Been concidering going to methanol injection

Pulls hard

 

[TheeMikeB]

I dyno tested just about everything when I did it. I picked up about 15RWHP opening my deck plate vs. having it closed, so yeah I'd recommend it.

You really got 15RWHP from just the deckplate mod? Wow, I never realized it was that much.

 

[djskorch]

I dyno tested just about everything when I did it. I picked up about 15RWHP opening my deck plate vs. having it closed, so yeah I'd recommend it.

please give some more insight/details on this. was the stock elbow removed or in place? isr or straight tube after maf or still the stock tubing? elevation, outside temp, supporting mods etc. back to back dyno printout showing this (i looked on your website and see the dyno run na with and without deckplate but not the comparison with the sc. when na, you only gained a couple hp but quite a bit of tq. i would love to see the actual back to back runs with the sc.)?

im as much of a hopefull as anyone else on the diy mods but 15whp is 20-25% of the total hp increase of adding the sc itself. seems a little far fetched to think cutting a hole in the stock air box will give 15whp. even with the sc, i cant see the stock airbox limiting the superchargers output by 20-25%

i will gladly bite my words if this is in fact true.

 

[RussToy]

I dyno tested just about everything when I did it. I picked up about 15RWHP opening my deck plate vs. having it closed, so yeah I'd recommend it.

[MENTION=8729]Speedy[/MENTION]. This post is probably going to drive you nuts with all these questions. But there is so many people out there claiming this and that...it's all starting to counterdic it's self....and I have become very confused. I guess I came to you because of your web page and dyno sheets. I'm hoping you'll help me out! I just hate buying things that don't work or doing a mod that doesn't need to be done. Thank you for your help in advance...

I just purchased my supercharger...got such a good deal on it, I had enough money left over to get a set of Doug Thorley headers...Got them on sale for $550! Now there $579...still not a bad price. I have the 7th injector kit, with the 2.2 pulley, also the URD pulley for the tensioner, and last I plurged on their crankshaft pulley. Now I still haven't installed anything...I'm still collecting parts and info before I start.

View the Doug Thorley Headers THY-507-C - 1995-2004 3.4L Toyota - FREE SHIPPING! at http://www.bjsoffroad.com

First question is: are you running headers? If so, what kind are you running? Now I've read several places that said they had to pull their engine to do the install...my direction don't say that. So, did you have to pull the engine to install your headers?

Next question: head gaskets. I've done a compression test and all my cylinders are all +/- 6% of each other. But with a 166,xxx miles on the clock...I'm wondering if I should put ARP head studs and new head gaskets, since I'm going to have the engine so far torn down? I'm putting new valve cover gaskets and replacing the timing chain and water pump already. Is this a good idea...or is this a waste of time? I've never heard of anyone changing head gaskets...just asking your opinion?!? Thanks...

What did you use for your straight pipe when you did your ISR mod?

Once again...sorry for all the questions! It's just I'm trying to get somewhere close to your RWHP numbers! I know I have to also do my tuning...I'm in the procees of lining up a dyno.

I'm open to everyone's input...I'm just trying to cut through all the BS out there and spend my money and time on things that work!

Thanks everyone for all your time and understanding. Have a great day
Russel

 

[Speedy]

No headers. They didn't seem to make enough of a difference to bother. You'll either have to lower the motor or lift the body or sawzall out the stock manifold as it crosses over the trans and I don't think it will come out. Not sure on the headers going on without lowering the engine, so plan on that.

We're not talking about a race car here. I wouldn't bother with head gaskets or ARP studs. I did do those in my 2009 Challenger that's supercharged but it puts out 600RWHP and I'm pushing 14psi through it. Completely different than 8-10 through a 4Runner.

I used some aluminum pipe I got from a turbo shop for my ISR mod.

 

[Fishwerks]

What are people using for an OBDII interface? I know a few are using the BR-3, which is no longer made.

One option I'm looking at is the Innovate LM-2 which is a wideband o2 controller and an OBDII interface all wrapped up into one nice handheld unit - LM-2 Wideband O2 Digital Air/fuel Ratio Meter

If I don't get that I will be running the Innovate DB wideband - DB Gauges: Air Fuel Ratio Guage

But then I would need a separate OBDII interface to mess with the fuel trims in closed loop tuning. URD sells the PLX Kiwi interfaces that can interface with the iPhone, or Innovate makes the OT-2 which can interface with iPhones as well (seems a bit better than the PLX at face value, plus the app for it looks good).

Just wanted to see if anyone had experience good or bad with any of these or another OBDII interface I didn't mention.

 

[RussToy]

This is a great question. I hope someone(s) out there is able to provide several opinions. It would be better than buying blindly.

 

[RussToy]

No headers. They didn't seem to make enough of a difference to bother. You'll either have to lower the motor or lift the body or sawzall out the stock manifold as it crosses over the trans and I don't think it will come out. Not sure on the headers going on without lowering the engine, so plan on that.

We're not talking about a race car here. I wouldn't bother with head gaskets or ARP studs. I did do those in my 2009 Challenger that's supercharged but it puts out 600RWHP and I'm pushing 14psi through it. Completely different than 8-10 through a 4Runner.

I used some aluminum pipe I got from a turbo shop for my ISR mod.

Wow...Speedy. This really surprises me that you're not running headers. The exhaust manifolds on our 3.4 looks very restrictive. I've always been taught...if your forcing more air into the engine...you have to allow the air to freely exit also. If the exhaust can't exit freely then this will slow down/stop you putting more air in...thus defeating your whole purpose of supercharging!

As much money as it cost to S/C our Runners...what's another $500 for Doug Thorley headers? Imagine getting another 25+ hp...not the mention fuel mileage!...at least that's MHO.

 

[Limbwalker]

Super glad to find this thread! My SC'ed rig has always fallen on its ass at highway speeds on steep grades and I was really starting to think something was broke. I am however not so glad to find that the 7th injector kit that I think will clear everything up AND add 30-40hp is $900 I dont have. Especially when theres so many other things I still want to do to it, and I barely drive it as it is because my commute is 160 miles a day and the mileage is hideous. Bummer

 

[Dirtyfingers]

I'm still looking for a few parts for my S/C, just need a 7th and a couple of gaskets. I'm wondering if I'd be able to put the TRD 7th on it beings it's a 98.

 

[MrHentoni]

ok guys since we're on the subject of headers i have a question for y'all. I did recently pick up my S/C and rebuild the nose with ceramic bearings (much quieter and it feels a bit peppier). I'm really wanting headers and a smaller pulley. I live just south of the Denver area (so fairly high altitude) and go to the mountains fairly often, i have the TRD fuel management system, colder t-stat, iridium plugs, and I do run 91(not sure if that helps you guys). Would I be able to run the URD 2.1 pulley without issues? Would i need to do more/different/better fuel mods? I'm also going to get the OBX headers and a really high quality gasket (don't tell me about their quality, I had their headers on my previous vehicle and loved the workmanship, but hated the gasket)

 

[coinball]

ok guys since we're on the subject of headers i have a question for y'all. I did recently pick up my S/C and rebuild the nose with ceramic bearings (much quieter and it feels a bit peppier). I'm really wanting headers and a smaller pulley. I live just south of the Denver area (so fairly high altitude) and go to the mountains fairly often, i have the TRD fuel management system, colder t-stat, iridium plugs, and I do run 91(not sure if that helps you guys). Would I be able to run the URD 2.1 pulley without issues? Would i need to do more/different/better fuel mods? I'm also going to get the OBX headers and a really high quality gasket (don't tell me about their quality, I had their headers on my previous vehicle and loved the workmanship, but hated the gasket)

The one bit of advise I can give on the headers, is to make sure you get those them ceramic coated, that's the one thing I wish I had done before putting in the TRDs...now I need to have a week of down time with my truck to take them out and get them coated and then reinstall them.

 

[Speedy]

ok guys since we're on the subject of headers i have a question for y'all. I did recently pick up my S/C and rebuild the nose with ceramic bearings (much quieter and it feels a bit peppier). I'm really wanting headers and a smaller pulley. I live just south of the Denver area (so fairly high altitude) and go to the mountains fairly often, i have the TRD fuel management system, colder t-stat, iridium plugs, and I do run 91(not sure if that helps you guys). Would I be able to run the URD 2.1 pulley without issues? Would i need to do more/different/better fuel mods? I'm also going to get the OBX headers and a really high quality gasket (don't tell me about their quality, I had their headers on my previous vehicle and loved the workmanship, but hated the gasket)

I wouldn't run the 2.1 with only 91 octane available.

 

[MrHentoni]

I wouldn't run the 2.1 with only 91 octane available.

Ok thanks, I wasn't sure if that would matter since I'm at altitude. I'll go with a 2.2 unless there are some others who want to chime in

 

[Dinabox]

I'm running the 2.1 and I'm at 4500ft, runs just fine, it only hits a tad over 9 lbs boost which is just right. I say go for it especially in colorado. I also only have 91 available here.

 

[RunnerMike]

RussToy, I run the same Doug Thorley headers you have. I had it installed in 2008 by 4WheelParts along with my supercharger. I kept my stock manifold and exhaust (I had the exhaust replaced too). I ran into a couple of issues with the headers. Make sure you can align everything up perfectly or else you will have leaks. I had a leak because the driver side runner wasn't lined up properly and one of the bolt fell off (not torqued right or something). It is very hard to readjust the runners if you are off alignment so make sure you double check it during install. I just retorqued mine last week again to ensure it is not loose. You can apply some high temp thread locks too while you are at it. Same thing happens to a bolt on the passenger side runner.
The other issue you will run into is (if you have a pre 2001 4Runner I think, 2001+ have fly by wire throttle) chaffing of the throttle cable against the driver side runner pipe. I burned the protected casing to my throttle cable since it was touch the runner pipe for 5 years. Since then I secured it so that it is not touch the runner.

Let me know if you need pictures to see how it lines up.

 

[RussToy]

RussToy, I run the same Doug Thorley headers you have. I had it installed in 2008 by 4WheelParts along with my supercharger. I kept my stock manifold and exhaust (I had the exhaust replaced too). I ran into a couple of issues with the headers. Make sure you can align everything up perfectly or else you will have leaks. I had a leak because the driver side runner wasn't lined up properly and one of the bolt fell off (not torqued right or something). It is very hard to readjust the runners if you are off alignment so make sure you double check it during install. I just retorqued mine last week again to ensure it is not loose. You can apply some high temp thread locks too while you are at it. Same thing happens to a bolt on the passenger side runner.
The other issue you will run into is (if you have a pre 2001 4Runner I think, 2001+ have fly by wire throttle) chaffing of the throttle cable against the driver side runner pipe. I burned the protected casing to my throttle cable since it was touch the runner pipe for 5 years. Since then I secured it so that it is not touch the runner.

Let me know if you need pictures to see how it lines up.

[MENTION=102161]RunnerMike[/MENTION] Hey buddy, thanks for the great advise on the headers! I still haven't installed mine yet...I'm holding out to do my supercharger, headers, timing belt kit, and valve gaskets all at the same time. So I'm still gathering items up.

Thanks for the tip on the alinement issues...I'll make sure to keep an eye on that. Also, great idea about using the high temp thread lock on the nuts and bolts! I really had not thought about it...it's now on my "to buy" list.

And yes...I'd really like to see any pictures you think would be helpful to do my install. I think that would help tremendously! Thanks much for the offer!

Hey did you watch them do your install? I've read some say you have to pull the motor to install the headers...others say they slide right on! The instructions talk about loosening the trans mount...just wondering if you had any first hand knowledge?

Also...you've had your headers on for about 5 years...how are they holding up? Any rust issues?? Do they still look good?

Thanks again RunnersMike for any and all the help...Cheers!!