The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
- Thread starter SCRunner12
- Start date
Sculsz
New member
I spoke to Gadget this morning regarding my current AFR readings. Seems the water meth system did help a little by increasing my AFR reading a bit richer but not enough to be comfortable.
I just went ahead and ordered the 7th injector kit. Its gonna kill me to pay that bill.
Gadget stated that the AFR reading at WOT should be 11.1. Im way off, showing around 13.9 to 1.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I asked the same question a few pages back in this thread. Basically, you have to either fab up some fancy tool, take a risk and tap the back by drilling a hole (risk ruining your supercharger if you miss!) or ship it out somewhere.
This might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48a8QvPwbWQ
MTD
New member
Yeah I don't have the 1st gen blower though, I have the single piece 2nd gen one and it is different. You can literally see the entire back of one of the bearings I just don't know how to get tho the other one. There was a guy over on Taco world who has rebuilt one of these but he is terrible about replying. I don't I may just pull it and see if I can figure it out.
It's not like it is making any extra noise I just know the bearings have ~90k on them and I don't want to wait until it is an issue as it seems most people do.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I was in the same boat. I recommend opening it up (it's very simple in there) and inspect the condition of the rear bearings. Mine still had plenty of grease and all the rollers and such were in great shape. There's no way to get both bearings out unless you do something fancy like mentioned above on the 2nd gen S/C (I have the same one). The rear bearings last longer than the nose cone. All the writeups on the front page don't mention how to remove the rear bearings since it's so difficult to do. I think some got lucky and had tools that just happened to fit, but I didn't want to ruin the bearings and since mine were good anyway I didn't do it.
I'm assuming you are changing out the nose cone with the Toyota kit? I forget where I read it but it's recommended to do every 100k miles. Did mine because it was getting really noisy at idle and the little oil that came out of it smelled like death.
I'm assuming you are changing out the nose cone with the Toyota kit? I forget where I read it but it's recommended to do every 100k miles. Did mine because it was getting really noisy at idle and the little oil that came out of it smelled like death.
MTD
New member
Yea I did mine a while back and had pulled the pack then too. Like I said the bearings were good still but the recommended interval ( by anyone other than Toyota guys is 100k max) I will see what I can do I know I can do it without making a tool like that since it has been done I just need to remove the brass access port on the rear shown here and then beat both the bearings out.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Yea I did mine a while back and had pulled the pack then too. Like I said the bearings were good still but the recommended interval ( by anyone other than Toyota guys is 100k max) I will see what I can do I know I can do it without making a tool like that since it has been done I just need to remove the brass access port on the rear shown here and then beat both the bearings out.
Yeah if you find a way to do it for sure post it up. I had no luck in my research.
If you do find a way then contact the thread owner SCRunner12 and ask him to add to the front post, it would be really helpful for others in the same spot that don't have access to a shop full of tools.
SCRunner12
New member
I will keep the thread updated a bit more in the next few weeks. Work and my wife going back to school has killed my free time, so I've slacked on this thread. In addition I will be installing a 7th injector, 2.2 pulley and rebuilding a 1st gen SC, so will have a good amount of info/experience to add to this thread.
I haven't seen a good way to get the rear bearings out besides a special tool or drilling a hole. I personally wouldn't drill a hole just in case something goes wrong, but a tool seems simple enough. Maybe something like a snap ring plier that has hooks on the side so it applies outward pressure and can catch the lip on the needle bearing.
I haven't seen a good way to get the rear bearings out besides a special tool or drilling a hole. I personally wouldn't drill a hole just in case something goes wrong, but a tool seems simple enough. Maybe something like a snap ring plier that has hooks on the side so it applies outward pressure and can catch the lip on the needle bearing.
shootmymime
New member
MTD
New member
yeah im lifted as well and have a thule rack with a air deflector. i have been thinking about removing the rack though cause it does add drag but not near as bad as the rtt lol
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MTD
New member
The 1st and second gen are different.. you can literally see one of the bearings from the back so no drilling is necessary... I just cant see the passenger one.... i think its behind that brass plate tho
SCRunner12
New member
I see you're in Rexburg. If driving on I-15 at the speed limit, it will really drop the MPG on these SUV's with poor Aerodynamics. All of the mods you listed further hurt the Aerodynamics.
MPG really starts dropping after about 60 mph on these things in stock form. Yours will be worse.
Sitting there running the engine while it's cold, it will be running richer until the engine temperature reaches normal. During that time it is getting ZERO MPG. This is bad practice.
The best thing from a fuel economy and engine longevity standpoint, is start the engine, then after the oil has circulated for maybe 10 seconds, put it in gear and start driving gently. This not only warms up the engine faster, it improves overall MPG, and there is less likelihood of fuel dilution in the oil. The rest of the drivetrain warms up this way too.
I've used this method for 17 years in my 4Runner, even in temps. as low as -35° F. Since you're in Rexburg, you might experience temps. in that range too.
All those factors considered, you're getting better MPG than I would've expected.
Sculsz
New member
Have you installed your 7th injector kit yet? I ordered mine a couple of days ago. I received an email from Gadget stating the black box is currently in manufacturing. So the kits are on back order
I hope to receive my kit by the 14th.
lhsoulrebel
New member
Have you installed your 7th injector kit yet? I ordered mine a couple of days ago. I received an email from Gadget stating the black box is currently in manufacturing. So the kits are on back order
I hope to receive my kit by the 14th.
So did tuning with just the meth kit not work out too well (I thought you were going to try to just stick with the meth kit)?? A couple of us are in the same boat.. Right now the truck is running fine... But if I wanted a bit more power, I was hoping to get by with just the meth kit.
Robb235
Senior Member
Why not just try a larger nozzle for your w/m kit before dropping that kind of coin on a 7th injector? What percentage of methanol are you running?
Sculsz
New member
I have played around with the meth kit. It did help a little but my AFR gauge still shows too lean. In boost I am averaging 13.8 to 14.2. I have the pump beginning to pump at 1PSI. I currently do not have any ping except right before the trans switches from 1st to 2nd gear. As far as more power, I have gone from 6psi to just over 6psi, it does not quite hit 7.
Sculsz
New member
I have ordered a 5gpm nozzle, just waiting for it to get here.
I am currently running a 50/50 mix and my AFR shows 13.8 to 14.2 in boost! This is my concern. I was hoping to be at least in the 12's.
I'll keep you posted on the larger nozzle.
lhsoulrebel
New member
What were your afr's before the meth?
shootmymime
New member
Have you installed your 7th injector kit yet? I ordered mine a couple of days ago. I received an email from Gadget stating the black box is currently in manufacturing. So the kits are on back order
I hope to receive my kit by the 14th.
no the guy shipped it yesterday. ill get it done in a couple weeks.
