SCRunner12
New member
I believe the alt should be set in the middle of the bracket. That is how I have mine set up and I believe in the instructions.
The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
- Thread starter SCRunner12
- Start date
I believe the alt should be set in the middle of the bracket. That is how I have mine set up and I believe in the instructions.
JamesDean91
New member
I'll give that a shot thanks
foxrider56
New member
okay so you can add me to the list! i just have a few questions, my boost gauge reads 25lbs vacuum at idle and dosent start building boost until about 3000 rpm, once it starts it get up to 8lbs, (im running the 2.2 urd pulley) so the guys who helped me do the vacuum lines said that there was a way to route them so that it would be making and building boost at idle we both thought that would be the wrong way so we did it the other way where it seems to take a while to build the boost. now im thinking that maybe we should route the lines that way so that it builds boost at idle and has boost as soon as i hit the throttle? i dont know much about superchargers and im just wondering if i have the vacuum lines correct?
thanks
thanks
shouldbeasy
New member
You get it sorted? Show us a picture of the V.line setup you have now. I can check mine to confirm / deny it's set correctly.
shouldbeasy
New member
Here is the results of my tuning adventure with a local shop using a Mustang Dyno. A clean bill of health (so to speak) after so many modifications is always nice to have, especially when this has been the largest test of my skills to date.
Anyways, here are the results - keep in mind that the RPM readings from 4800 up to redline / 5200 are often... messy. Apparently. So the maximum readings may come from spikes and such, the data between 4800 and 5200 needs to be taken with a grain of salt.
Driveability is improved, seems very smooth and happy to comply with my requests. Doesn't have to do a rapid downshift on one notorious little ravine near me anymore so that's a sign of smoother power while cruising and after the OD kicks off. Happy with the results, hopefully this info helps others who are tuning. I rushed the exhaust and so I need to go back and cut off the 2nd catalytic converter and probably gain a couple more HP. As always, it's a work in progress.
My altitude is 900m for reference, also running the URD 2.2" supergrip pulley, 4.88 Nitro Gears from and back, 35" Yokohama snow tires.
Base URD Map Dyno Run
Tuning Complete - ECT On
Tuning Complete - ECT Off
Combined Maps - ECT On (Green) and ECT Off (Red)
Simulated 0-60MPH
R4 Controller Screen Capture - Map A - Timing
R4 Controller Screen Capture - Map B - 7th Injector
Dyno Videos
Run '1' - 3rd roll on into 2nd gear pull I believe
Run '2' - 1st, 2nd and 3rd
Anyways, here are the results - keep in mind that the RPM readings from 4800 up to redline / 5200 are often... messy. Apparently. So the maximum readings may come from spikes and such, the data between 4800 and 5200 needs to be taken with a grain of salt.
Driveability is improved, seems very smooth and happy to comply with my requests. Doesn't have to do a rapid downshift on one notorious little ravine near me anymore so that's a sign of smoother power while cruising and after the OD kicks off. Happy with the results, hopefully this info helps others who are tuning. I rushed the exhaust and so I need to go back and cut off the 2nd catalytic converter and probably gain a couple more HP. As always, it's a work in progress.
My altitude is 900m for reference, also running the URD 2.2" supergrip pulley, 4.88 Nitro Gears from and back, 35" Yokohama snow tires.
Base URD Map Dyno Run
Tuning Complete - ECT On
Tuning Complete - ECT Off
Combined Maps - ECT On (Green) and ECT Off (Red)
Simulated 0-60MPH
R4 Controller Screen Capture - Map A - Timing
R4 Controller Screen Capture - Map B - 7th Injector
Dyno Videos
Run '1' - 3rd roll on into 2nd gear pull I believe
Run '2' - 1st, 2nd and 3rd
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Good stuff!
So if I'm reading this right, there doesn't look to be any huge power gains from tuning and your original fuel map was pretty close? More of a fine-tune to smooth out the other spots other than at 4000+ RPM, yeah?
Also, I'm surprised that the ECT Power actually makes that much of a difference. I normally just leave it off since I didn't notice a difference other than the shift points.
So if I'm reading this right, there doesn't look to be any huge power gains from tuning and your original fuel map was pretty close? More of a fine-tune to smooth out the other spots other than at 4000+ RPM, yeah?
Also, I'm surprised that the ECT Power actually makes that much of a difference. I normally just leave it off since I didn't notice a difference other than the shift points.
shouldbeasy
New member
The URD Base map and the final tuned map are quite different. Do you want me to post the stock URD maps (A and B) for comparison?
If anyone wants the actual database files, just PM me and I can email them across as opposed to trying to fill in the individual cells.
I was also surprised by the horsepower gain with the ECT on. You always think it's got a bit more jam with it on but then again, I thought perhaps I was going crazy and it made no difference. Here the difference is right out in front of us to see and it's significant!
Limbwalker
New member
Threw another PO171 code after cleaning the MAF sensor."Bank 1 running lean"
Am I losing an injector? It states I may need to change fuel filter (which I know it needs) potential O2 sensor... Anyone have experience with this??? It is losing power on hills above 3000 rpm
Am I losing an injector? It states I may need to change fuel filter (which I know it needs) potential O2 sensor... Anyone have experience with this??? It is losing power on hills above 3000 rpm
shouldbeasy
New member
Not personally. Sounds like it's starved for fuel?
Have you changed the fuel pump? Are you running a 7th Injector set up? What supercharger related modifications?
Search through /read this thread, I wish you luck.
Limbwalker
New member
Ive gone thru this thread quite a bit... have not done the fuel pump, and no fuel mods or 7th injector. Supercharger was the only thing done to the truck when I bought it... I am running normal plugs, so probably going to put in some iridiums, but the problem has been around for quite a while and is getting worse
shouldbeasy
New member
Check out URD's page and see if you can find the exact specs of their spark plugs. They're two steps colder and that may make a difference...
Do the maintenance you have / had planned and then see if the fuel filter was the issue. How many km / miles on it?
Limbwalker
New member
Thanks, Ill check it out. 138k miles... with around 40k miles on the SC
GarageBuilt
New member
Good to hear you are happy with your tune! The RPM readings from 4800 on are because of the dyno and VERY little to do with your vehicle. It has to do with the created load on the rollers which reacts to various things such as tire slippage, readings out of range etc. It does smooth out with with further dyno time but irrelevant at this time since the time spent in high RPM's is minimal. Obviously we tune for operating range before we spend time up high. As Ray had probably told you we did the best we could within budget/time. More time and adjustments could have possibly perfected everything but minimal of course. We'd love to see you back if/when you do further modifications for power! You sir are smart to have your supercharger dyno tuned over the street tune that most people do.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Check for vacuum leaks. Most common cause of loss of power and P0171.
lhsoulrebel
New member
You can also still tighten the adjusting bolt for the alternator. I put the dynamic tensioner on with the alt bolt in the middle spot and it still felt a bit loose. I just cranked the adjusting bolt until the belt "felt" tight enough. FYI, the quickest and easiest way to access the adjusting bolt is through the wheel well with a few extensions. Keep us posted.
lhsoulrebel
New member
I had the same exact thing after install. I checked all the vacuum lines, and added hose clamps where necessary. Then check your throttle body gasket. Make sure it is the trd one and installed the correct way. Also check that the TB bolts are tightened to spec. 13 foot pounds I believe. At the same time I changed the spark plugs to denso IK22's... Not sure which of these things fixed the problem, but I haven't had it pop back up in 1500 miles. Good luck, keep us posted.
shootmymime
New member
Ok guys I need your advice. I'm going down to sea level in a month and I need to install the 7th injector because I will also be towing my trailer.
I am running out of time and don't have any time on the weekdays to install it so it has to be a weekend job.
What tools do I need.
What advice can you give me.
Who has a map I can use and do very little tuning.
Do I need to install the 190 FP?
what else am I missing?
I am running out of time and don't have any time on the weekdays to install it so it has to be a weekend job.
What tools do I need.
What advice can you give me.
Who has a map I can use and do very little tuning.
Do I need to install the 190 FP?
what else am I missing?
shouldbeasy
New member
http://www.lcengineering.com/LCInstructions/1063079%207th%20injector%20install.pdf
The first couple pages lay it out clear what tools are required - hopefully your kit is new and has them all, otherwise you may have to source some of the smaller bits and pieces.
- USB (male) -> Serial adapter (female) - if you want to tune it via R4 software. I had to remove the pins which attach the extension to their mate as it interfered with plugging it in to the URD module.
- USB (male) -> USB (female) extension - depends on where you mount your URD module (I said **** it and used the glove box for easy access)
JamesDean91
New member
Tightened up and seems to be charging just fine. Yesterday I did see the gauge drop down to 13.8 where it usually sits at 14.1/14.2. Guess it's just a matter of time before I upgrade to something better anyways.
shootmymime
New member
what gauge? your AFR? im sitting around 14-7 under light -heavy load and boost.
