The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

But if you don't have a second driver you have to stop and adjust. I'm asking can I make changes while running down the road with my wife driving.

I'll be watching afr and slowly changing as I go.

No.

You really need to read the manual mate. It lays out how to complete the tuning relatively well. It's straight forward but getting the proper results is not.

Do you have experience tuning vehicles? Is this your first go at it? Do you know what you're looking for? Do you know what is too much and what is too little when it comes to fine adjustments?

So many variables and so when it came down to it I didn't trust myself to CORRECTLY complete the tune for the optimization of MY engine. This rig is an investment for me (I don't want to build another...) and so having it blow up due to my negligence wasn't on the menu.

Anyways, once again, read read and read some more. URD offers up a 'tuning guide' that outlines how the program works but doesn't identify what the end result should be. It assumes you know.
 
Nope that's why I'm asking.

Perfect, keep asking questions, just keep researching too.

The only stupid question is the one left un-asked. But... That doesn't mean I won't judge you accordingly! Another goodie is best to keep one's mouth closed and be thought an idiot as opposed to open it and remove all doubt!

You're braver than I was, but just keep in mind you don't know what you don't know.

Even having my maps to try and duplicate I can't tell you how to get there using the variables we have. I know that you want to reduce the timing when pinging occurs but reducing the timing will also, typically, reduce your power while decreasing the AFR (richer). And of course you need to adjust the 7th injector (affecting the AFR) in an attempt to dial in the short term and therefore long term fuel trims.

Road tuning introduces so many variables that I didn't think it was a reliable way of getting the best out of my vehicle.

Having another person who knows what you're trying to accomplish to work with you would be essential I think. My girlfriend spent the day wrenching on her RAV4 but I think she wouldn't enjoy sprinting around in my rig for the afternoon (plus, she gets sick easily - so lame).

Do you want my maps to work with? I'm at 3000', perhaps it's higher than you are and in such case they might work with a stock pulley? Once again, for me, too much guess work.
 
Well reading the URD instructions he kinda mentions you can drive and tune at the same time

Page 17 of the URD tuning instructions says "To start tuning it is best to find some closed road or abandoned airport and have
a helper drive the vehicle for you." so the phrase "helper driver" is that spurred my original question.

Perfect, keep asking questions, just keep researching too.


Even having my maps to try and duplicate I can't tell you how to get there using the variables we have. I know that you want to reduce the timing when pinging occurs but reducing the timing will also, typically, reduce your power while decreasing the AFR (richer). And of course you need to adjust the 7th injector (affecting the AFR) in an attempt to dial in the short term and therefore long term fuel trims.

Road tuning introduces so many variables that I didn't think it was a reliable way of getting the best out of my vehicle.

Do you want my maps to work with? I'm at 3000', perhaps it's higher than you are and in such case they might work with a stock pulley? Once again, for me, too much guess work.

I think road tuning is the best because you get road and wind resistance. I dont want to pay for a dyno tune.

im at 5,500 ft and have a stock pulley.

So one thing i have noticed was sometimes around 3K RPM it will not go into open loop fuel trim and start the 7th injector. i need to find out why. i say this because ill be driving. floor it to above 3K and it will go from 14.8:1 to 14.2:1 where as sometimes it will not. Ive only had the 7th injector on for a few days. lots to learn.
 
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OK, so today I went to my friend's dyno shop and used their Vipec knock amplifier to listen while driving on the road.

As expected it pings - now the thing is that both he and I agreed that the pinging was so slight that it would take a long time - if ever - to cause engine damage. The pinging only happens at light to medium throttle at 2-3K RPM and is totally inaudible to the naked ear no matter how hard you listen. There was also a very quick ping when the tranny is forced into a downshift but in both cases the pining is almost immediately taken out by the stock ECU pulling timing.

The bad part is (like I already knew) the part throttle under boost is lean due to the ECU staying in closed loop.

I am almost 100% certain I will go with the URD 7th kit.

After that - a few dyno pulls to verify things and we shall see.

Sure, I could add all sorts of other band-aid solutions including meth injection or just one of the other URD "black boxes" but I think this will be the best.

My friend at the dyno shop also mentioned that he had tuned another truck whit the URD 7th injector kit and it worked out well so that pretty much sold me.

I'm still PISSED that TRD cold market such an incomplete kit - but I guess they just don't care.

Figures my first purchase of a "real" TRD product in 25 years of tuning cars is this crappy...
 
Nope that's why I'm asking.

If you want the advice of a person who has spent over 20 years building and tuning forced induction vehicles - I'll give it to you.

Go and have someone with experience DYNO tune your truck.

Most good shops will also road test after a dyno tune to make sure the results work on the road.

If you think tuning the vehicle on the road is ok - it's NOT - just a few reasons are:

- It is not very repeatable - on the dyno you can repeat the same run and/or hold the RPM at any point you want, along with any other variables you like.

- It is not very safe (you almost always have to exceed the posted speed limit, and you are almost constantly distracted from tuning by talking, watching gauges etc. - and you are distracted from tuning by driving - even as a passenger tuning a laptop)

- It is illegal (due to the fact you are going to speed and because you are distracted)

- (see above) if you get ONE ticket, it'll likely exceed the dyno tuning cost - try telling the cop you were tuning the vehicle and he'll add nice distracted driving ticket.

- It is much more likely that you will be able to catch a problem before it causes major damage if you are on a dyno.

The even greater concern is that with no prior tuning experience it is much more likely that you will do something wrong than something right.

On the other hand if you can afford (money and time/hassle wise) to "roll the dice" and learn to tune yourself then go crazy.

Just make sure you know what the risk is that you are taking - you are not talking about buying up a $3 light bulb or $50 set of speakers - you are talking about a motor with melted pistons or worse which basically means you will be buying and installing another engine, not exactly worth it for saving a few bucks on a pro tuner.

In the end, I have seen it over and over again and if you tune it yourself you will likely end up wishing you had paid to have it done - you can't exactly decide to go get it tuned after you blow up your motor...
 
Well reading the URD instructions he kinda mentions you can drive and tune at the same time

Page 17 of the URD tuning instructions says "To start tuning it is best to find some closed road or abandoned airport and have
a helper drive the vehicle for you." so the phrase "helper driver" is that spurred my original question.



I think road tuning is the best because you get road and wind resistance. I dont want to pay for a dyno tune.

im at 5,500 ft and have a stock pulley.

So one thing i have noticed was sometimes around 3K RPM it will not go into open loop fuel trim and start the 7th injector. i need to find out why. i say this because ill be driving. floor it to above 3K and it will go from 14.8:1 to 14.2:1 where as sometimes it will not. Ive only had the 7th injector on for a few days. lots to learn.

I am looking at buying the same kit from URD and I talked to him today - he says the unit comes pre-loaded with a program that should be good for 99% of trucks.

his website also says it -

The 7th injector kit has better altitude compensation, it is easier to install, and the pre-loaded start up program is good for 99% of the trucks out there and almost never needs any additional tuning by the end user.

Maybe someone messed with yours and you should upload the stock tune?

That is about as far as I would recommend you "tune" yourself.
 
What should my afr be? Iirc some guys say 12 it's the best

I would tune for 11.5 or so, if I were willing to sacrifice a little power for safety I would even say low 11's or high 10's.

A lot of factory turbo or S/C cars run in the 10's under boost.

My truck currently dips into the 10's as long as it's not in closed loop - interesting that if you floor it from a stop, it'll stay nice and rich over the entire RPM band - it's part throttle where all the BS happens...
 
Do you have any thoughts as to who my truck does not go into open loop over 3k when the URD is programmed to kick in at 3,000 rpm and ??? I don't remember boost.
 
Do you have any thoughts as to who my truck does not go into open loop over 3k when the URD is programmed to kick in at 3,000 rpm and ??? I don't remember boost.

Do you have the most current version of the URD 7th kit?

Did you ensure it was wired correctly?

How do you know it is staying in closed loop (vs. simply being programmed wrong)

Have you installed the in-tank pump as well?

Have you got fuel pressure gauge?
 
Do you have the most current version of the URD 7th kit?



Did you ensure it was wired correctly?



How do you know it is staying in closed loop (vs. simply being programmed wrong)



Have you installed the in-tank pump as well?



Have you got fuel pressure gauge?


Idk what version I have on it. Got it used.

Yes it's wired correctly. Wiring was actually very simple. I've been doing electrical for a while and very comfortable and confidant with it.

I don't know if it's staying in closed or being programmed wrong. My only thoughts are I can see the afr go from high 14 to low 14 when I know the 7th injector should be turned on via the map.

No I have not done the fuel pump yet. Gadget also said some people don't need the pump. I'm just waiting for some more time to install it (will be this weekend)

No fuel pressure gauge so idk.
 
Idk what version I have on it. Got it used.

Yes it's wired correctly. Wiring was actually very simple. I've been doing electrical for a while and very comfortable and confidant with it.

I don't know if it's staying in closed or being programmed wrong. My only thoughts are I can see the afr go from high 14 to low 14 when I know the 7th injector should be turned on via the map.

No I have not done the fuel pump yet. Gadget also said some people don't need the pump. I'm just waiting for some more time to install it (will be this weekend)

No fuel pressure gauge so idk.

I'd be interested to see a picture of the wiring job.

What I would probably do first is find a way to verify that it is actually spraying - you can do this by removing the injector and putting it in a bottle.

Be sure it is not in any place where it can ignite the fuel and you are in a well ventilated area outdoors.

After putting the block off plate back on the EGR port you can start the engine and rev it by applying full throttle, a few times is all you will need to see if it's spraying.

I am also of the opinion that the pump should be unnecessary if yours is in good shape - adding a fuel pressure gauge will tell you because the fuel pressure will drop once the 7th injector opens or it will not hold full pressure all the way to redline (the pressure will drop off at high RPM under boost).

If you are installing a fuel pressure gauge inside the truck, make sure it is an electric one (fuel lines running inside is s no-no).

If you do not want to install a gauge, you can maybe borrow a fuel pressure tester (from your school?) and duct tape it to the windshield while you drive.

It is important to test everything before you go too far instead of simply "throwing money at it"
 
Keeping tabs on the thread. I got the larger fuel pump installed today (from the 7th injector kit). I was very excited. It took about an hour. Went down to my friend's shop and he was awesome. Lift, tranny jack and good to go. I was planning for nightmares. Rusty, busted bolts, etc. Nope. Easy, peasy. I don't know if I've ever seen a project go that smoothly. Next weekend we'll be installing the SC and the 7th kit. Also installed a new OEM fuel filter as per Gadget's advice.
 
Keeping tabs on the thread. I got the larger fuel pump installed today (from the 7th injector kit). I was very excited. It took about an hour. Went down to my friend's shop and he was awesome. Lift, tranny jack and good to go. I was planning for nightmares. Rusty, busted bolts, etc. Nope. Easy, peasy. I don't know if I've ever seen a project go that smoothly. Next weekend we'll be installing the SC and the 7th kit. Also installed a new OEM fuel filter as per Gadget's advice.

I need to get to know your friends.
 
Keeping tabs on the thread. I got the larger fuel pump installed today (from the 7th injector kit). I was very excited. It took about an hour. Went down to my friend's shop and he was awesome. Lift, tranny jack and good to go. I was planning for nightmares. Rusty, busted bolts, etc. Nope. Easy, peasy. I don't know if I've ever seen a project go that smoothly. Next weekend we'll be installing the SC and the 7th kit. Also installed a new OEM fuel filter as per Gadget's advice.

I can tell you that if I need a bigger pump it will NEVER be a walbro, I have had nothing but problems with them over many years, I see just as many fail as I install.

They are the cheapest thing and I guess that is why they keep selling them.

If I need a pump ( which I doubt) I will be looking at other options, maybe OEM supra pump.
 
so driving home today made me realize something is wrong with mine, i got my wideband installed and under boost i get a 10 atf ratio, and then ill let off the gas sometimes and it will go crazy lean, like so lean that the display starts flashing lean.
what is atf supposed to be at different ranges like riding and stuff ?
also on the highway it didn't seem like it had any nuts to even keep it moving, could this be from the edu adjusting still? i have been doing small like less then 3 mile trips and this was one of the first times I've actually went on the highway so could the edu still be learning or what? i also still do not believe my vacuum hoses are correct because i will punch it from a complete stop and it will not really feel like I'm pushing extra power even though the boost gauge reads 8. then randomly it will kick into something and i will really feel the power. can someone please help, i really don't have much time to commit to this since I'm away at school but i just want this fixed.

i have a 1st gen blower with a 2.2 pulley, urd 7th injector hooked up.
 
i got my wideband installed and under boost i get a 10 atf ratio, and then ill let off the gas sometimes and it will go crazy lean, like so lean that the display starts flashing lean.
what is atf supposed to be at different ranges like riding and stuff ?


i have a 1st gen blower with a 2.2 pulley, urd 7th injector hooked up.

yes when you let of the throttle mine will also go to 22 ARF and my red light will turn on, its normal while going fast then take foot off the ggas and slowing down.

So my question. My boost gauge reads 5psi under full boost but my URD program on my computer is only showing 3 psi. ive got the stock pulley 2.37 one. Whats wrong?


Thats the reason why my 7th injector was not working, it was not reading the correct boost pressure. my stock map that was loaded was not supposed to kick on until i hit 3 psi of boost at 3,000 RPM and i could bairly reach 3 PSI. so i changed some numbers at 2 psi and 2500 RPM floored it and my ARF instantly dropped from 14.7 to 13.2 and worked great. SO WHATS MY PROBLEM, Why am i loosing boost pressure or not reading it correct.?????
 

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